Got my wisper!

Mussels · Sep 18, 2008

eddieo said:
Bike arrived this morning, it seems well looked after and glad I did not need to do much assembly lol

my abus lock and kryptonite cable arrived as well. no room on frame for lock guess it will have to go on rear pannier....

Had a little test ride and seems fine...will take a little getting used to. Have not quite mastered the controls and the throttle does not appear to do much....probably my weight But I can see if you are in any way fit the bike is probably not for you and it is heavy!

I find the throttle helpful and I'm 15 stone, are you saying the pedelec is more helpful than throttle?

eddieo said:
managed to get up a hill near me without embarrassment and came back after half an hour with legs aching a bit and chest pumping ...so I think it will help me get the aerobic exercise I need. I have a bad hip & knee so walking gets painful.......

I presume the battery was charged, as when I plugged it in and green light came on, does the red stay on all the time if power on? as mine is on all the time?

The lights show vlotage so when under no load it will mostly show green, it is more accurate to look at the lights when under load. I find I get about 10 miles of heavy use before it stops showing green under load and goes to yellow and then another 5 miles before it shows red, it sounds like you are not using a fully charged battery.

eddieo said:
the rear rack was supplied but not fitted, do I get fixings for this from a bike shop? and can it be fitted with rear mud guard? as it sticks up a bit lol

I assume you have the MTB style short mudguards, they will fit underneath the mudguard but you should secure them with a zip tie or similar to stop the mudguard falling onto the tyre.

eddieo said:
will submit a review, probably after October half term in France

Cheers Eddie

P.S. Thanks again everyone on here who has helped me gain enough knowledge on the subject of E Bikes to make a reasonably informed decision!
On this wisper there is only a green button on left hand side, no red ...so how does the de-restrict work?

Press once for on and again for off, if you don't notice the difference hold the throttle open while you do it and wait a few seconds between presses.

eddieo said:
also battery does not seem to lock into holder, a bit of a concern for security.

Mine locks and the older loan bike had a lock on it even though it was broken, is there no sign of a lock at all as the battery should have a moulded hole for the bolt to go into.

eddieo said:
and seat does not seem to tip up, so I can't change seat fitting for a nut and bolt (better security) as need quick release to take out battery......

I have the seat at the top of it's adjustment and find I can remove the battery fine without removing the seat, not much good if you have less than a 32" inside leg.

Howard · Sep 18, 2008

eddieo said:
my abus lock and kryptonite cable arrived as well. no room on frame for lock guess it will have to go on rear pannier....
Had a little test ride and seems fine...will take a little getting used to. Have not quite mastered the controls and the throttle does not appear to do much....probably my weight But I can see if you are in any way fit the bike is probably not for you and it is heavy!
!

No - I found the same thing, so my Kryptonite lock has to go in the pannier
You should notice a difference with the throttle! An easy test to check it is working is to put the bike on the stand, rock it on the stand to lift the back wheel in the air, then twist the throttle - the wheel should start spinning...

eddieo said:
I presume the battery was charged, as when I plugged it in and green light came on, does the red stay on all the time if power on? as mine is on all the time?
the rear rack was supplied but not fitted, do I get fixings for this from a bike shop? and can it be fitted with rear mud guard? as it sticks up a bit lol
!

Red should pretty much be on all the time. All 3 lights will be on to start with, then Red/Amber, then just red. When fully charged, the battery is 41.7V, according to Doug at Wisper it will automatically cut out at 20V to avoid damage to the battery. Obviously it depends a lot on your riding style as to how many miles you get out of the battery. How much pedal effort are you contributing? My total commute is 47 miles, and I easily do this on one charge, but I do pedal all the time.

I'll post a picture for you later on how to assemble/fit the rear rack if it helps! Mike from ETS London gave me a couple of longer bolts than are normally supplied, as these make it a lot easier to attach the rack to the frame (down by the wheel nuts). It just squashes down over the mudguard, no problem. The rack together with the sports mudguard actually makes the mudguard much more effective! Mike from ETS London also recommended a couple of cable ties to secure the mudguard to the rack - again, I will post a picture later to show you.

eddieo said:
On this wisper there is only a green button on left hand side, no red ...so how does the de-restrict work?
also battery does not seem to lock into holder, a bit of a concern for security.
!

The green button is a simple on/off. If you want an easy way to check it, put the bike on the stand, rock it over on the stand to lift the back wheel in the air. Now twist the throttle, then toggle the derestrict button. You will notice a definite increase in speed when the derestrict button is on.
The battery should lock to the frame! On the same side of the battery as the ignition, there is a key socket on the frame (towards the rear). This should cause a bolt to lock into a recess on the battery. i can post a picture of mine later to show you.

eddieo said:
and seat does not seem to tip up, so I can't change seat fitting for a nut and bolt (better security) as need quick release to take out battery......

I think the tipping seat is a myth - I've never seen one! I have to take my saddle off to get the battery out. Bit of a pain, but there you go... I try to charge my battery in situ as much as possible, to avoid having to keep removing the battery!

I'll post a few piccies for you later, and if you PM me your email, I'll forward a couple of emails from Wisper bikes with more up to date instruction manuals that actually match the controls on you bike!

Cheers,

Howard

Conal · Sep 18, 2008

Tipping seats

Howard

"I think the tipping seat is a myth - I've never seen one! I have to take my saddle off to get the battery out".

If you mean that there are none available, any bike shop that sells Ezee bikes should be able to get one for you (Cyclepoint do).

I have a Forza and it came with a tipping seat. it is very useful and I think you should be able to transfer the mechanism to another saddle if you don't like the big bum comfy saddle supplied (I do)!

Conal

Mussels · Sep 18, 2008

Howard said:
put the bike on the stand, rock it on the stand to lift the back wheel in the air

That's how I broke my stand.

Mussels · Sep 18, 2008

Conal said:
Howard

"I think the tipping seat is a myth - I've never seen one! I have to take my saddle off to get the battery out".

If you mean that there are none available, any bike shop that sells Ezee bikes should be able to get one for you (Cyclepoint do).

I have a Forza and it came with a tipping seat. it is very useful and I think you should be able to transfer the mechanism to another saddle if you don't like the big bum comfy saddle supplied (I do)!

Conal

I think he meant the tipping seat that is a Wisper option, I think most people would decide against it as the non-tipping one has a sprung seatpost which may be why they seem to be a myth. I didn't get asked on mine though, just took whatever was available.

frank9755 · Sep 18, 2008

I've fixed a kryptonite d-lock to the front fork on my Wisper. Doesn't have a noticeable impact on handling and the curved down-tube means there's plenty of clearance when turning.

Mussels · Sep 18, 2008

frank9755 said:
I've fixed a kryptonite d-lock to the front fork on my Wisper. Doesn't have a noticeable impact on handling and the curved down-tube means there's plenty of clearance when turning.

I take it you don't have the same Kryptonite D lock as I do but if you have attached a 3Kg lock then I'd like to know how.

Howard · Sep 18, 2008

Mussels said:
That's how I broke my stand.

D'oh! Sorry to hear that... Maybe it's not such a good idea after all

Howard · Sep 18, 2008

frank9755 said:
I've fixed a kryptonite d-lock to the front fork on my Wisper. Doesn't have a noticeable impact on handling and the curved down-tube means there's plenty of clearance when turning.

I didn't think of using the front fork - thanks, I may give that a try!

flecc · Sep 18, 2008

Howard said:
I think the tipping seat is a myth - I've never seen one!

Cheers,

Howard

David Miall has investigated equipping with a tipping saddle, but his requirement was being frustrated. The trouble is that tipping seat mechanisms are extremely heavy, and David was trying to hold of one using modern light materials to greatly reduce that excess weight, more in keeping with the 905se.

Maybe he'll see this and advise if there's any progress.
.

Mussels · Sep 18, 2008

eddieo said:
Went up another hill, just about made it. lost the green light on the climb but now understand this is normal. the hill climbing side is a bit disappointing...probably due to my weight

Hillclimbing is subject to compromise, the faster on the flat the worse on hills. I think the motor hits the spot just right but I would like a lower bottom gear, someone else on this forum has made a good change (42 front, 11-34 rear I think) that I'll try when it's time to fit a new cassette.

Phil the drill · Sep 18, 2008

Mussels said:
Hillclimbing is subject to compromise, the faster on the flat the worse on hills. I think the motor hits the spot just right but I would like a lower bottom gear, someone else on this forum has made a good change (42 front, 11-34 rear I think) that I'll try when it's time to fit a new cassette.

Hi Mussels

That was me.
I have certainly found it useful on steeper hills, but with the added advantage that you get a little more top end too. In pedelec mode though the motor has virtually cut out by the time you start to pedal in top gear so if you want motor assistance here you need to use the throttle as well as pedal. I have asked the guys a Wisper if there is a wiring fix to allow the 'off road mode' to be utilised when using the pedelec function, but so far haven't heard anything back about this.
You will need to fit the 42t chainring on the inner aspect of the crank, or the chain will constantly fall off in the low gears.
Dick @ Wisper was very interested in my gearing set up and was going to try it out, but apparently Shimano told him that the 11t -34t freewheel cassette was no longer made. I'm not sure about this. Certainly they aren't that easy to come by, but I did find several different sources for new ones - after some diligent 'googling'.

Cheers, Phil

Mussels · Sep 18, 2008

Phil the drill said:
Dick @ Wisper was very interested in my gearing set up and was going to try it out, but apparently Shimano told him that the 11t -34t freewheel cassette was no longer made. I'm not sure about this. Certainly they aren't that easy to come by, but I did find several different sources for new ones - after some diligent 'googling'.

Cheers, Phil

It is possible to build your own cassette as they should come apart easily to be modified, I haven't tried sourcing the parts yet though.

flecc · Sep 18, 2008

Mussels said:
It is possible to build your own cassette as they should come apart easily to be modified, I haven't tried sourcing the parts yet though.

The 11 to 34 megarange (which is termed HG50) uses a unique core though, having an outboard bearing to provide additional support for the 7 sprocket span. Their other multi freewheels like the Cadet range have shorter cores with only a single inboard bearing.

Sadly the range of multi freewheels have been rapidly diminishing with few manufacturers using them now.
.

Mussels · Sep 19, 2008

flecc said:
The 11 to 34 megarange (which is termed HG50) uses a unique core though, having an outboard bearing to provide additional support for the 7 sprocket span. Their other multi freewheels like the Cadet range have shorter cores with only a single inboard bearing.

Sadly the range of multi freewheels have been rapidly diminishing with few manufacturers using them now.
.

Am I right in thinking any 7 speed cassette (any brand) will fit on my Wisper or am I a bit more limited in my choice?

ElephantsGerald · Sep 19, 2008

Mussels said:
Am I right in thinking any 7 speed cassette (any brand) will fit on my Wisper or am I a bit more limited in my choice?

Hi Mussels,

Heres my fumbling attempt at an answer, although you'll probably need to wait for a definitive answer from flecc

I'm pretty sure theres a fundamental difference between the MegaRange freewheels and cassette freewheels; something to do with the thread on the hub I believe.

I think you'll find the MegaRange freewheels don't come apart at all in the way a cassette would.

This has been discussed before on the forum, although the only posting I can dig out right now is this one: Freewheels, Cassettes & Chains

Theres an article here by Sheldon Brown that explains the difference.

Regards,

Elephants

Mussels · Sep 19, 2008

Oh dear, looks like ebikes only use the old style threaded hubs, that limits choice a fair bit.

Got my wisper!

Banned

Banned

Esteemed Pedelecer

Pedelecer

Pedelecer

Esteemed Pedelecer

Esteemed Pedelecer

Esteemed Pedelecer

Esteemed Pedelecer

Pedelecer

Pedelecer

Banned

Member

Esteemed Pedelecer

Esteemed Pedelecer

Esteemed Pedelecer

Member

Esteemed Pedelecer

Pedelecer

Esteemed Pedelecer

Advertisers