Gearless or quiet geared

Hi,

Any quiet geared motors you can recommend?

Any non-geared motors you can recommend?

Are "Nine continent" reliable? (can be had in Germany)

Are Tongxin reliable?

Had a 36v - 10a - 250w geared Bafang (from Alien ocean) little over a year old, too noisy, fair just after lubrication. Got rusty inside as well.

Some brands or types more sealed against weather?

Are there no non-geared motors with freewheeling?

Thankyou,

Carsten J

The Tongxin Nano motor is almost silent because it uses roller drive reduction instead of gears, relying on friction to provide the drive. It works surprisingly well in fact. The reliability record hasn't been perfect but they have got a got better these days. The important thing is specifying the right rpm version, since trying to gear too high for the available power invites trouble. It's best for reliability to aim for assistance to around 15/16 mph at most.

The latest version of the geared Suzhou Bafang motor with side plate entry cable and a thicker hub gear rack is quieter than previously, though all versions are fairly quiet at higher speeds, the noise rising at lower revs when driving hard as in hill climbing or when the gears are dry.

Well designed Direct Drive motors don't really need freewheels

Best choices:

All round geared hub motor = Suzhou Bafang

Most silent "geared" hub motor = Tongxin Nano

All round direct drive motor = BionX (sophisticated controls, quality, quiet)

Most silent direct drive motor = Sparta (no kits, only fitted in the Sparta and Koga Miyata bikes but rather gutless.)

Packing the bearing side entry points on Suzhou motors with either thick grease or silicone rubber seals them against water effectively. I use silicone rubber, it seals to the entry shell allowing free rotation against the spindle.

I don't personally know the nine continents motors, though some seem happy with them.

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Edited January 28, 201016 yr by flecc

The Tongxin Nano motor is almost silent because it uses roller drive reduction instead of gears, relying on friction to provide the drive. It works surprisingly well in fact. The reliability record hasn't been perfect but they have got a got better these days. The important thing is specifying the right rpm version, since trying to gear too high for the available power invites trouble. It's best for reliability to aim for assistance to around 15/16 mph at most.

 

The latest version of the geared Suzhou Bafang motor with side plate entry cable and a thicker hub gear rack is quieter than previously, though all versions are fairly quiet at higher speeds, the noise rising at lower revs when driving hard as in hill climbing or when the gears are dry.

 

Well designed Direct Drive motors don't really need freewheels

 

Best choices:

 

All round geared hub motor = Suzhou Bafang

 

Most silent "geared" hub motor = Tongxin Nano

 

All round direct drive motor = BionX (sophisticated controls, quality, quiet)

 

Most silent direct drive motor = Sparta (no kits, only fitted in the Sparta and Koga Miyata bikes but rather gutless.)

 

Packing the bearing side entry points on Suzhou motors with either thick grease or silicone rubber seals them against water effectively. I use silicone rubber, it seals to the entry shell allowing free rotation against the spindle.

 

I don't personally know the nine continents motors, though some seem happy with them.

.

Flecc

On my Alien conversion(front wheel), the cable comes out of the spindle and then up the fork thus leaving the gap where the cable comes out in an upward position. I keep looking at it and wonder if I should smear some grease or silicon into that gap.

The spindle ends like most with a black plastic cap that fits over the spindle end and the cable exits out of the side.

Any thoughts

Dave

Further into the spindle Suzhou have the cable sealed in with silicone rubber before it emerges from the spindle inside, so if your's is the Bafang motor there's no need to worry Dave. However, no harm is done by a further plugging with grease if convenient as an added precaution, but it's the bearing entry points that are the most vulnerable.

.

Of the direct drive motors, Crystalyte are virtually silent.

Nine Continent are more efficient and probably even more reliable but do make some noise at slower speeds.

I am a big Tongxin fan for both small size and quietness of the motor.

Flecc is right though you need to choose the right RPM. I would also add that I think these motor perform better and have less problems (from what I have read) if you use them carefully and not over load them. I never use my Tongxin in either my EBrompton or my Cytronex from a standing start.

Of course I could hate the things when they fall apart after 6-12 months, time will tell :o

PS Note they are like hens teeth to source. Took me over 2 months to find a Chinese source, especially if you want just the hub motor and build the wheel yourself. Cost of built up rim with Tongxin hub motor in the UK is high.

Regards

Jerry

Edited January 28, 201016 yr by jerrysimon

Thanks so far for the answers!

So it is possible to manually pedel without resistance a "Well designed direct drive", when the battery runs out?

Keith the Tongxin also spins quite well (some small resistance) without power.

Regards

Jerry

Thanks so far for the answers!

So it is possible to manually pedel without resistance a "Well designed direct drive", when the battery runs out?

The BionX for example offers very little resistance to pedalling without power, unless of course the regeneration feature is used by switching it in.

I can't speak of the other direct models free running, though comments I've seen say they are ok in this respect. Hopefully others will comment on those.

.

If I stick with a Bafang, are there any stores in europe?

Thankyou,

Carsten

Edited January 28, 201016 yr by Keithdrengen

You might like to try Frank. He use to be based out of Germany but recently moved to China.

He is well regarded and very professional and has consistant good reviews both from people on this and the German pedelec forum.

Das Elektrorad von Frank Scheftlein: Komplette Pedelec- / Elektrofahrrad Umbausätze und Ersatzteile von Bafang, Puma (eZee), Tongxin u.a.

I am assuming you want to build the wheel yourself.

If not you may want to look at a kit from Alienocean

Also check out Daniel Weck's post on his Bafang build.

Regards

Jerry

Edited January 28, 201016 yr by jerrysimon

I might get a cycle store to build it, or else Ill stick with those kits available, 9continents f. ex.

thx..

I might get a cycle store to build it, or else Ill stick with those kits available, 9continents f. ex.

 

thx..

A regular bike shop did my first wheel rebuild and it lasted about 4 miles before collapsing. Hub motors are a bit different to normal hubs and since a specialist rebuilt it I have had no more problems.

Thanks so far for the answers!

So it is possible to manually pedel without resistance a "Well designed direct drive", when the battery runs out?

I have used a Crystalyte DC motor and currently using a Nine Continent. Both are easy to pedal without power. There is some extra resistance of course but I can pedal at 15 mph without power for a little while at least.

im intrested to find out more about the Speed/freewheel/noise of the Japanese Dapu motor.

I've only ever heard of them being fitted to Wispers and there are very few in the country at the moment for anyone to try, I'd love to know as well as I have one on order.

A regular bike shop did my first wheel rebuild and it lasted about 4 miles before collapsing.

I am curious what happens when a wheel completly fails. Having built my first wheel this was my biggest fear. Does it literally collapse whilst riding into a heap of rim spokes and motor, or do several spokes break one after another ?

Regards

Jerry

I am curious what happens when a wheel completly fails. Having built my first wheel this was my biggest fear. Does it literally collapse whilst riding into a heap of rim spokes and motor, or do several spokes break one after another ?

 

Regards

 

Jerry

I've had several wheel failures and they were all gradual with one spoke after another breaking but plenty of time between them. I have usually been able to ride several miles between spokes breaking, enough to get home or back to the shop.

I've had several wheel failures and they were all gradual with one spoke after another breaking but plenty of time between them. I have usually been able to ride several miles between spokes breaking, enough to get home or back to the shop.

I have found pretty much the same. Best not to ride too far with a broken spoke as another one soon fails and then you get an avalanche of failures

I been checking my EBrompton front wheel build after every days commute since I built it a few weeks back :o

So far so good

Regards

Jerry

Yes, wheels with 32 or more spokes are safe, only experiencing gradual spoke failures one at a time. The designs with minimal spoking, 24 or less, are more suspect, but they rarely appear on e-bikes.

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Edited January 29, 201016 yr by flecc

Should I get a controller with or without hall sensor?

What do you think about goldenmotor kits, maybe prokit 902, geared 250w mini hub. Thing is I have to buy the wheel assembled, as I got 10 thumbs..

Thx,

Carsten J

Edited January 30, 201016 yr by Keithdrengen

 

What do you think about goldenmotor kits,

We've had some past cases of Goldenmotors arriving not working and then members finding there's zero support from the company and only a virtually defunct forum accessible there. So there's a risk in buying direct from them, it would be much safer if there was UK representation.

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