Gazelle Orange Plus

[ashwood]

I have a 2013 Gazelle Orange Plus ebike. I'm hoping to replace the failed battery pack with a self-built one. Does anyone know the signal output of the blue wire coming out of the battery? I think it sends the battery charge state to the display (or maybe to the controller in the hub). Essentially I need to somehow by pass the need to match the battery to the bike. I hooked up a 36V battery pack and the display comes alive but the battery indicator keeps flashing and there is no assistance from the motor. The error codes on the display are D1 and A4. Help/ideas would be appreciated

 

[vfr400]

What motor do you have, as it changed round about that time, so could be either?

 

[ashwood]

What motor do you have, as it changed round about that time, so could be either?

It is a 250W front hub motor. I have not opened the hub to check as the motor was working ok before the battery died.

 

[Nealh]

D error codes relate to the display I believe, If the display is removeable try cleaning the contacts with isopropanol or meths etc and re try.
A error codes may relate to battery issues again might be a contact issue or an internal issue.
If the hub was fine before the battery died then the issue won't be there, however with if it has an internal controller then that opens another whole can of worms.

 

[ashwood]

D error codes relate to the display I believe, If the display is removeable try cleaning the contacts with isopropanol or meths etc and re try.
A error codes may relate to battery issues again might be a contact issue or an internal issue.
If the hub was fine before the battery died then the issue won't be there, however with if it has an internal controller then that opens another whole can of worms.

Maybe I have not explained it clearly. The issue is that in these early bikes the bike needs to recognise the battery ie the serial number of the battery is programmed into either the display unit on the handlebar or into the controller - I do not know which one. I'm trying to find out how to get around this. I someone knows how the number is programmed in, or knows the way the BMS communicates the battery number to the bike that would be helpful.

 

[vfr400]

If you build a battery for it or re-cell your existing one, use the original BMS so that it works exactly the same.

 

[wheeliepete]

You don't say how your battery has failed. If it has just lost range and you have no error codes with it fitted, then you should be OK to rebuild it, but if it has refused to charge or thrown up errors, then it suggests a BMS fault. I don't think you are going to find a work around to run your bike on a generic battery which I believe is your aim.

 

[Nealh]

If the system uses handshaking protocols for display, controller & battery to recognise each other then you will need the makers programming software. If the BMS is at fault you will be out of luck. If the BMS is ok one has to keep it live and parallel a new battery pack or power source to it before disconnecting the old one.

 

[Woosh]

if I remember correctly, the blue wire turns on the battery and the rear light from the LCD. I don't think you can replace just the battery with a generic one.
If you don't want to pay for a new Orange battery, you will probably need to replace the controller (inside the front light), the LCD, the battery and the rack.
The bottom bracket can't be removed and refit without special tool.

 

[ashwood]

If you build a battery for it or re-cell your existing one, use the original BMS so that it works exactly the same.

Unfortunately the BMS got destroyed in the process if dismantling the battery pack. Unlike other battery packs which use an O-ring to seal the end plates this one was sealed with resin that had to be ground out.

 

[ashwood]

You don't say how your battery has failed. If it has just lost range and you have no error codes with it fitted, then you should be OK to rebuild it, but if it has refused to charge or thrown up errors, then it suggests a BMS fault. I don't think you are going to find a work around to run your bike on a generic battery which I believe is your aim.

I guess it failed of old age (7yrs) although had very little use. When I pulled it apart, 12 of the 40 cells were completely dead but 28 were still ok. If the BMS was still serviceable I would not have a problem.

 

[ashwood]

if I remember correctly, the blue wire turns on the battery and the rear light from the LCD. I don't think you can replace just the battery with a generic one.
If you don't want to pay for a new Orange battery, you will probably need to replace the controller (inside the front light), the LCD, the battery and the rack.
The bottom bracket can't be removed and refit without special tool.

Yes, you are correct but if I knew the signal sent via the blue wire I could build something to replicate it.