Gazelle headset adjustment?

Morning all. Pics are of my 2023-model Gazelle Grenoble C5HMB. Can anyone please tell me how to take up a bit of slack in this headset? (The slack is in the headset, btw - not in the monoshock suspension )

You didn't show the bit where it's adjusted, so I have to give you the general solution. Loosen off the stem clamp screws, tighten the cap screw until the play disappears without the bearings binding, then retighten the stem clamp screws.

To illustrate Saneagle's advice but on a different bike, slacken the Allen bolts (1) to allow some free movement on the stem, then tighten the Allen bolt (2) which presses down the taper collar (3) and tightens against the top bearing (4).

 

http://www.flecc.uk/t/images/headstock.jpg

You didn't show the bit where it's adjusted ...

 

Sorry. Please see attached snap.

To illustrate Saneagle's advice but on a different bike, slacken the Allen bolts (1) to allow some free movement on the stem, then tighten the Allen bolt (2) which presses down the taper collar (3) and tightens against the top bearing (4).

 

Thanks flecc. I'm actually familiar with that process, but if you take a peep the the picture I've just posted above, you'll see why I'm scratching my head with this one.

The photos you posted don’t really show enough.

 

Does your bike have head tube suspension?

 

If so then the manual in the link explains how to adjust it in section 3.1

 

They couldn’t make it more complicated if they tried. So good luck in trying to adjust this properly.

 

https://www.gazellebikes.com/media/gene-cms/g/a/gaz_alg_en_17.1_1_1.pdf

Edited August 28, 20241 yr by AGS

... Does your bike have head tube suspension? If so then the manual in the link explains how to adjust it in section 3.1 ...

 

Thanks, but section 3.1 of that PDF is concerned with adjustment of the head tube suspension, and as I stated in my OP, the play is in the headset itself - not in the suspension.

 

(Incidentally, adjustment of the suspension is actually no big deal.. It's one of those things that is much harder to explain than to do.)

The last paragraph of section 3.1 says when it is adjusted correctly there should be no lateral or fore and aft play.

The last paragraph of section 3.1 says when it is adjusted correctly there should be no fore and aft play.

 

We seem to be at cross purposes here. The front suspension adjustment is independent of the headset adjustment. If on my bike I adjust the front suspension (as in the PDF to which you kindly linked) to the point at which it has no play whatsoever i.e. it is locked solid, there is still play detectable in the headset. Not a lot, but more than there should be. That's what I need to take up.

Have you read section 1.3?

 

If you haven’t, you won’t be happy when you do.

Have you read section 1.3?

 

If you haven’t, you won’t be happy when you do.

Yes I have. Sorry if I'm being particularly thick this evening, but I'm afraid I don't see your point.

It says if you can’t fix the head set lateral and fore and aft movement yourself you need to take it to a Gazelle dealer and they have the tools and know how to fix it for you.

 

This usually means that it is an awkward sob to repair yourself and you will probably break something if you try.

Edited August 28, 20241 yr by AGS

Thanks flecc. I'm actually familiar with that process, but if you take a peep the the picture I've just posted above, you'll see why I'm scratching my head with this one.

 

I see what you mean!

.

It says if you can’t fix the head set lateral and fore and aft movement yourself you need to take it to a Gazelle dealer and they have the tools and know how to fix it for you.

 

Well, it would say that, wouldn't it! In the manual for my wife's very similar Gazelle, it also says take it to your dealer to have the belt tensioned, the brake pads changed etc.

 

Looks like I'll be on the phone to the dealer tomorrow with a question ...

Sorry. Please see attached snap.

You need to go higher - to the top!

Have you tried removing the handlebars and taking the plastic cup off the top to see if there is a nut underneath?

 

That could be a Gazelle bike mechanics special know how. And an adjustable spanner to tighten the nut could be the special tool.

Have you tried removing the handlebars and taking the plastic cup off the top to see if there is a nut underneath?

 

That could be a Gazelle bike mechanics special know how. And an adjustable spanner to tighten the nut could be the special tool.

 

D'oh! Now why didn't I think of that? S'obvious, innit! GIven that it's a Dutch bike, I bet it does have a "traditional" headset lurking under there.

 

Will investigate tomorrow all being well and report back. Meanwhile, will be off-line until then.

Yep, the Dutch do like their threaded stems.

Alas, Life has got in the way of my sorting this out. I'll come back to this in due course and report the outcome.

Sorted! Referring to the third picture I posted, I first slackened off the two Allen screws seen at the base of the handlebar clamp thingy, expecting to be able to pull that and the bars off upwards. But no: it didn't want to let me.

 

I then realised that what I had assumed was a plastic cover (i.e. the part labelled VP-Z051AD) over a threaded stem locknut is in fact the means of adjustment. It's alloy and it's threaded. So by gripping and turning that in increments clockwise together with the bars, holding it in place, and then twisting the bars back to where they were, I started taking up the slack. Repeated three times, Allen bolts tightened, job done!

 

Weird, but effective.

Well done for updating the technique used, it may be of help to someone else in the future.