Front drive hub noisy

[Sussexman]

Any help would be most welcome. I have an Ansmann e-bike with a front wheel drive hub. It is a 28” wheel, a 250w drive and a 36 amp battery. I have tried in vain to find an Ansmann replacement online and the company no longer makes bikes. Can I buy a replacement wheel on line and will it work with the connector shown in the photo? I would love to keep the bike but the grinding noise is worsening and it sounds terminal!

 

[Nealh]

Annsmann still make kits and motors, a new 40nm front Ansmann is bets part of £270 from Italy. Also new hubs will have likely moved on now to be sensored as well, your hub is unsensored as it only has three phase pins.

It may be time to fit a new motor and controller kit, battery will be fine to keep using.

 

[Nealh]

But first remove the motor wheel from the bike and manually rotate the axle by hand, if it feels graunchy,grinding in rotation then it is likely just a sealed bearing that have worn. One simply opens the hub up knock out the bearing/s and refit new ones.
Also whilst open check the planetary nylon gears over and if ok slap some new /more grease in there.

 

[Sussexman]

Thank you for replying so quickly. I have sent a message to Ansmann Uk in case they have old stock. Failing that, I will have to bite the bullet and work out how to fit a new motor & controller kit after attempting your suggested maintenance checks. Not quite so sure about the “simply” bit though! My mechanical skills are very suspect!

 

[Nealh]

The manual turning of the axle will tell you if the bearings feel shot.

The hardest part is opening the hub, a pic of it from the rhs will help.
I have a feeling it is a screw type which means a 1.5" - 2" flat metal bar will be needed with a large hole drilled to go over the axle and sit flat on the hub face or radius taken out of one edge. On the hub face there are usually three machine screws, one needs to aline two of the screw holes in the metal bar so longer screws an be used to hold the bar tight to the hub face.
The hub wheel needs holding tightly and then some pressure added to the bar to start opening the hub acw, sometime one has to lump the bar with club hammer or bit of 4 x 2 for a bit of force esp if it is tight. A bit of heat from a hot air gun will also help.
Once the joint starts to unthread it then is easy to unscrew.
On the lhs an inboard nut will need to be removed to allow the motor to be removed.

 

[Nealh]

Which part of Sx ?

 

[Sussexman]

Here is a photo of the hub: (rhs) and another of me and the bike setting out from Sussex to Spain via the west coast of France

 

[Nealh]

Six screw fisings means one can get better leverage by selecting an opposing pair to secure a flat bar with, the screw joint will be at the outer bevel of the motor near the spoke holes.