FreeGo

[DisWheels]

Hi folks, I have a Freego Hawk but it has developed a fault that causes intermittent power bursts. As in, the power drops out often when cycling. Showing a full charge. Bike has only down 670 miles. Just been serviced but they will not look at the electrics with Freego, as many of you know already, no longer trading.
Had a relative who is a retired electrician check the battery pack and individual cells were all tested and fine.
When it goes, it goes like stink but just not delivering a consistent assist. Any help sincerely appreciated - Aindre

 

[Andy-Mat]

Hi folks, I have a Freego Hawk but it has developed a fault that causes intermittent power bursts. As in, the power drops out often when cycling. Showing a full charge. Bike has only down 670 miles. Just been serviced but they will not look at the electrics with Freego, as many of you know already, no longer trading.
Had a relative who is a retired electrician check the battery pack and individual cells were all tested and fine.
When it goes, it goes like stink but just not delivering a consistent assist. Any help sincerely appreciated - Aindre

It may have a simple wire/cable connection problem, or a sensor problem, both difficult for an amateur to find and isolate!
If you are not an avid DIYer (electrically), then you might want to invest in an e-bike tester, which may help further in discovering where the fault may lie.
I have actually seen an LBS over here, that actually uses such a unit as it helps them diagnosing the area of the fault, as a big time saver, though I have yet to "bite the bullet" myself so to say.....

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Best wishes, and if you do buy one, let us know if it helps you further. They cost around 20 UK Pounds I believe on ebay, cheaper than an hours work at a LBS!!.
Also, buy some test clips, as the one you may buy, may not have the exact same connector your e-bike uses (different manufacturers!), and test clips can "bridge over" any differences......
Best wishes and keep us informed. Photos too if possible.
Andy

 

[DisWheels]

It may have a simple wire/cable connection problem, or a sensor problem, both difficult for an amateur to find and isolate!
If you are not an avid DIYer (electrically), then you might want to invest in an e-bike tester, which may help further in discovering where the fault may lie.
I have actually seen an LBS over here, that actually uses such a unit as it helps them diagnosing the area of the fault, as a big time saver, though I have yet to "bite the bullet" myself so to say.....

YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content and share it all with friends, family and the world on YouTube.

www.youtube.com

Best wishes, and if you do buy one, let us know if it helps you further. They cost around 20 UK Pounds I believe on ebay, cheaper than an hours work at a LBS!!.
Also, buy some test clips, as the one you may buy, may not have the exact same connector your e-bike uses (different manufacturers!), and test clips can "bridge over" any differences......
Best wishes and keep us informed. Photos too if possible.
Andy

Thanks so much for the speedy response. I'll certainly have a look on line. I in the Channel Islands and not one of the local shops will look at the electrics. nor will they supply a replacement battery if/when needed. I think they are both missing a trick but not working in an Environmentally sustainable way either. Just found it on Amazzzzz and ordered. My only concern with the tester though is that the connectors are all Dinpin type so not sure how I will be able to connect them for testing.......

 

[Woosh]

check the magnet disc behind the chainring, it can be knocked about or lose a magnet.
Post a close up picture if you still cannot fix this.

 

[DisWheels]

I did not know there was a Magnet on the Freego - I'll go now and look and take some Photos

 

[Andy-Mat]

Thanks so much for the speedy response. I'll certainly have a look on line. My only concern with the tester though is that the connectors are all Dinpin type so not sure how I will be able to connect them for testing.......

Which is why you may need to buy some test "clip" connectors on ebay as well, so that you can bridge any connectors that do not "fit". Its a common problemk that some testers do not "fit" all e-bikes.....
Regards
Andy

 

[Andy-Mat]

I did not know there was a Magnet on the Freego - I'll go now and look and take some Photos

Photos are ALWAYS a good idea for anyone needing assistance!
regards
Andy

 

[DisWheels]

Here are some Photos but I can't see what might constitute a magnetFr

 

[Woosh]

check between the chainring and the bottom bracket. You'll find the pedal sensor there. The magnet ring is a plastic disc with 6-12 small silver magnets on it. When you pedal, the disc rotates and the magnets create pulses in the pedal sensor. The bike's controller picks those up and starts the motor. If it's knocked too far from the sensor's head, the latter can't pick up the signal reliably and can produce intermittent fault.
It looks like this:

 

[DisWheels]

I can't see anything that looks like that photo Sorry

 

[Woosh]

turn the bike up side down and take a picture of the chainring/bottom bracket area.

 

[DisWheels]

Ah I was looking by the motor on the back wheel. Is it this? This flashes a little red light on an off as the pedals move and stops immediately when pedalling stops. It's on the last photo. Really appreciate folks' kind input on this

 

[Woosh]

the LED flashes when the magnet comes in front of the sensor head. If it flashes, the sensor works. Now check that the disc is still straight and no magnet is missing.

 

[DisWheels]

This appears rock solid - but upon touching it with something that should stick to it as being attracted to a magnet nothing happened. I made sure to check the screw would attach to another magnet and it did.
As I say above/below, it appear to surge and drop only on the twist throttle. Other than that is continues. The LED display appears to have five modes 1 thru 5 and the motor can be heard whining more loudly as the numbers increase.

 

[Woosh]

As I say above/below, it appear to surge and drop only on the twist throttle.

you will need to replace the throttle. it is not really user serviceable, but is a fairly inexpensive part (about £10).

 

[DisWheels]

Do you have one I could purchase from your shop please?

Aindre

 

[Nealh]

Shame the last bit of info wasn't offered straight away.
If the pedal assist works ok and done doesn't have any intermittent power bursts except only with the throttle, then we can suspect the battery is ageing and can no longer deliver the higher current demand constantly.
Just because the battery voltage appears ok on an ageing battery doesn't mean it is 100% healthy. One expects the battery has degraded with age and likely 10 - 15% or so, though it will still power the bike in lower pedal assist it isn't happy when given the full beans, the throttle works either on or off and on means 100% power available. For a wee while the battery may be able to deliver the power, bt at some stage the voltage will sag or collapse to such a level that the power cut outs start.
Does the power cut out when using pedal assist level 5 ?
How old is the battery ?

 

[Nealh]

With a battery mileage means little, it is the age that matters and whether it is used often or not.

 

[DisWheels]

Sorry, trying to work out why, step by step. Does not appear to cut out at any level on just assist. It seems only to happen when the throttle is engaged. - Woosh has suggested replacing just the throttle as it's relatively inexpensive

 

[Nealh]

Throttles usually work or don't work, there isn't usally an inbetween. It like PAS sensor/magnet disc is simply a swtich that provides a signal, when off the throttle sees 5v ans when active it see's approx. 1v for operation.
Your relative can test the throttle via the block connector at the motor controller, between Gnd /Black and 5v/ Red he will see 4.5 - 5v, next he should check Gnd Black to the Signal wire (the third colour could be Blue /Green or any other colour), when the throttle is applied he should see about 1v. If all this pans out then the throttle is working correctly.

At the block connector for a good contact simply use two sewing needles up the back of the wire connector for the probes to be applied to.