Freego Hawk no power

Hi. My Freego Hawk was cycled up a fairly steep hill out of Dartmouth. I physically could not cycle it so pushed it up the hill using the throttle. I stopped for my hubby to catch up and then suddenly my bike had no power/drive to back wheel. The LED display panel is all lit up and lights work but other than that nothing. The battery was recelled recently and is fully charged. All thoughts on what could be the issue welcomed. Hubby has checked all connections and can find nothing wrong. Thankyou

I had a recent similar problem to yours and we found it to be a bad connection in the on/off battery switch which is incorporated in the battery key unit.

To check it, unscrew the battery cap and wiggle the wires around to see if you can get the power to come back on.

You'll see a more comprehensive thread on the subject if you look about a month or so back.

If the LED panel says on, it's a problem between the control system and the motor, not the battery.

Two things to try first: Check that the motor connector is in all the way to the marked line, not just in tight. After that, follow the wires from the brakes until you come to a connector, then disconnect them. depending on which version you have, the connectors could be up near the handlebars, in the pod in front of the steering head or at the controller under the battery.

Thankyou Lancslass and vfr400. We have done everything you have said and still no drive. The LED display is working fine and we disconnected the brakes in the pod just beneath the handlebars and reconnected but no change. The motor connector has also been disconnected and reconnected to the marked line but nothing. So we think it’s either trying that nightmare of finding a replacement controller (or as near as we can find) on the internet and turn the soldering iron on or is it the motor in the rear wheel????? The pedal sensor seems absolutely fine too. We have phoned numerous ebike repairers, ebike and Atmans (who did originally have spares) but they all say they cannot help - with quite a few saying scrap it. The bike itself is almost immaculate but just won’t go!

Thankyou Lancslass and vfr400. We have done everything you have said and still no drive. The LED display is working fine and we disconnected the brakes in the pod just beneath the handlebars and reconnected but no change. The motor connector has also been disconnected and reconnected to the marked line but nothing. So we think it’s either trying that nightmare of finding a replacement controller (or as near as we can find) on the internet and turn the soldering iron on or is it the motor in the rear wheel????? The pedal sensor seems absolutely fine too. We have phoned numerous ebike repairers, ebike and Atmans (who did originally have spares) but they all say they cannot help - with quite a few saying scrap it. The bike itself is almost immaculate but just won’t go!

I doubt that you'll find an exact match Freego controller, but you can use any controller. Before you do that, there are some very simple diagnostic checks to figure out what's wrong if you have a meter.

...and we disconnected the brakes in the pod just beneath the handlebars and reconnected but no change.

Just checking, but what vfr meant was to disconnect the brake wires then, whilst they are disconnected, test to see if the bike goes. This sounds as if you just disconnected and reconnected them and noticed no change.

 

It's important because (whilst waiting for your husband) you likely held the bike on the hill using the brake, after which you lost power. Testing with the brake wires disconnected makes sure it isn't a brake switch that's stuck.

Hi cyclebuddy. I am not very technical so probably didn't explain this very clearly. But hubby did disconnect brakes and throttle cables and then tried to start bike but no luck. Several people have thought that something may have stuck but we just cannot find anything obvious. We have now been directed to a company in Southampton who sell a repair kit costing £185 to completely change all the wiring, controller PAS - everything apart from battery and motor - a lot to pay if it is the motor that’s gone. We have tried numerous bike repair places but nobody will touch it as it’s a Freego and they went out of business several years ago and you cannot get spare parts. Hubby has used a multimeter to test what he can but as yet cannot find the fault.

Hi cyclebuddy. I am not very technical so probably didn't explain this very clearly. But hubby did disconnect brakes and throttle cables and then tried to start bike but no luck. Several people have thought that something may have stuck but we just cannot find anything obvious. We have now been directed to a company in Southampton who sell a repair kit costing £185 to completely change all the wiring, controller PAS - everything apart from battery and motor - a lot to pay if it is the motor that’s gone. We have tried numerous bike repair places but nobody will touch it as it’s a Freego and they went out of business several years ago and you cannot get spare parts. Hubby has used a multimeter to test what he can but as yet cannot find the fault.

That's ridiculously expensive. You can buy the same parts yourself for from £40 to £80.

 

I have no idea of your husband's knowledge. Does he know how to test an ebike - and I don't mean test battery voltage?

The price of 185, I agree is a stupid inflated price but I guess if they are doing the work they have to make a profit somewhere so a big mark up on the parts is expected plus labour. We shouldn't really be surprised though as there aren't many options open to have this work done in the open market place.

We of course know Woosh are very good but other wise it is mainly us hobbyist/amateurs who know what they are doing and know how to test etc.

 

One expects a component in the controller fried whilst the throttle was being used.

The £185 was for a DIY kit! Apparently easy - plug and play! Hubby is also convinced its the controller and although you cannot get a direct replacement for the Freego one, he is prepared to spend out for one (£10-£30) and work out where all the wires go. Thank you for your help.

Sorry forgot to reply to your question. Hubby was an engineer in the aviation business (Flight Refuelling) but not electrical. He has been watching numerous videos on the internet and tested numerous connections including one that gives resistance in the rear wheel possibly suggesting that the motor is still working.

For a diy kit it's a no brainer to buy direct from China source for half the cost.

The £185 kit is KT/Kuenteng I believe from another post about this kit, one can buy the same kit for about £70 - £80. For your money you get controller, lcd display, throttle, PAS & brake cut out if needed.

To but from China though one needs to use Aliexpress for cheapest cost, though one can BMSBattery, Tobikekit, Greenbikekit or PSWpower.com.

 

There are cheaper not so good options also available but with KT you get the best current control electronic kits available for low cost.

For the Freego you only need a 15a controller kit but it won't hurt to get the 17a kit for just a bit more pep, 17a will give nearly 14% more power.

 

A plug and play diy kit form China only needs two wires to be usually connected by the end user and may need a different connector if not soldering direct and that it the two battery wires.

How to test and ebike. In this case start with test 2, then do test 6:

 

1. Measure the voltage at controller's battery connector. Obviously should be battery voltage. 36v - 42v for a 36v battery would be an acceptable range.

2. Measure the voltage on the 5v rail. You can measure that between any ground (black) and any of the reds going to throttle, PAS or motor halls. It should be around 5v.

3. Check throttle signal wire, which is the one that's not red or black. Should give about 1v to 4v when you twist the throttle. If there's more than one wire, your meter will find it. It's the one that's between 1v and 4v, assuming that it works.

4. Check that the PAS is pulsing. Measure the PAS signal wire while turning the pedals slowly. Should pulse 5v on and off every time a magnet passes the sensor. the signal wire is the one that's not red or black.

5. Check the motor hall signal wires (blue green and yellow) on the connector at the controller. They should each pulse with 5v going on and off as you rotate the wheel BACKWARDS.

 

6. Mosfet test. Disconnect the motor cable and battery from the controller. measure the resistance (200k scale) between the red battery connection and each of the three phase wire connections, then repeat with the black battert wire. eack set of 3 readings should be the same as each other and in the range 7K -22K. Though can be higher as long as they're all the same. Due to the capacitor across the battery wire, you can get a constantantly changing measurement while it charges. In that case, try swapping your probes round. Even though can be a moving result, the only important thing is that all three move in a similar way.

 

If your bike passes all those tests, it should work, so then you can look at any settings or other logical causes, like stuck brake switches, PAS installed backwards.

 

When checking whether the motor will work, always disconnect all unessential connectors, like PAS (if you have a throttle), lights and brakes.

If after carrying out the test listed by vfr and controller is faulty, then use the link/s below for new controller kit.

 

These two controller kits are about $80 with cheapest p&p, one has to select the added components need form the drop down boxes. lcd3 display is the best decent one or the very small lcd4. Add a throttle and speed sensor as they are cheap add on's. BZ10C if you have exterior BB bearings if not a more basic one like the 8 pas model. 108x throttle is best as it is water proof, if you already have a 3 wire throttle then it can be used. The only other item is brakes sensors but you have some so may be able to use them

 

T-06S 24V/36V250W Torque Simulation Sine Wave with Julei Waterproof Connector [T06S controller Waterproof Plug] - $28.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com)

 

T-06S 24V/36V250W Torque Simulation Sine Wave Brushless Controller for Ebike FT-06 36V250W Torque Simulation Square Wave Controller Brushless Controller for Ebike [T-06S controller] - $24.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com)

How to test and ebike. In this case start with test 2, then do test 6:

 

1. Measure the voltage at controller's battery connector. Obviously should be battery voltage. 36v - 42v for a 36v battery would be an acceptable range.

2. Measure the voltage on the 5v rail. You can measure that between any ground (black) and any of the reds going to throttle, PAS or motor halls. It should be around 5v.

3. Check throttle signal wire, which is the one that's not red or black. Should give about 1v to 4v when you twist the throttle. If there's more than one wire, your meter will find it. It's the one that's between 1v and 4v, assuming that it works.

4. Check that the PAS is pulsing. Measure the PAS signal wire while turning the pedals slowly. Should pulse 5v on and off every time a magnet passes the sensor. the signal wire is the one that's not red or black.

5. Check the motor hall signal wires (blue green and yellow) on the connector at the controller. They should each pulse with 5v going on and off as you rotate the wheel BACKWARDS.

 

6. Mosfet test. Disconnect the motor cable and battery from the controller. measure the resistance (200k scale) between the red battery connection and each of the three phase wire connections, then repeat with the black battert wire. eack set of 3 readings should be the same as each other and in the range 7K -22K. Though can be higher as long as they're all the same. Due to the capacitor across the battery wire, you can get a constantantly changing measurement while it charges. In that case, try swapping your probes round. Even though can be a moving result, the only important thing is that all three move in a similar way.

 

If your bike passes all those tests, it should work, so then you can look at any settings or other logical causes, like stuck brake switches, PAS installed backwards.

 

When checking whether the motor will work, always disconnect all unessential connectors, like PAS (if you have a throttle), lights and brakes.

 

WOW! Thankyou so very much - this is a very thorough reply - I am sure hubby will also be very grateful when he returns from work.

If after carrying out the test listed by vfr and controller is faulty, then use the link/s below for new controller kit.

 

These two controller kits are about $80 with cheapest p&p, one has to select the added components need form the drop down boxes. lcd3 display is the best decent one or the very small lcd4. Add a throttle and speed sensor as they are cheap add on's. BZ10C if you have exterior BB bearings if not a more basic one like the 8 pas model. 108x throttle is best as it is water proof, if you already have a 3 wire throttle then it can be used. The only other item is brakes sensors but you have some so may be able to use them

 

T-06S 24V/36V250W Torque Simulation Sine Wave with Julei Waterproof Connector [T06S controller Waterproof Plug] - $28.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com)

 

T-06S 24V/36V250W Torque Simulation Sine Wave Brushless Controller for Ebike FT-06 36V250W Torque Simulation Square Wave Controller Brushless Controller for Ebike [T-06S controller] - $24.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com)

 

 

Thank you very much for all this information - we now have much cheaper options to explore. Will post again when it is sorted. We cannot thank you all enough for helping us.

A simple test without measuring to tell if the controller is faulty.

Leave every thing connected, no battery power. Lift the wheel and turn clockwise does it free wheel easy ?

If severe resistance is felt then disconnect the hub motor cable and try again, If it frees up then controller is fried or a fault with the controller phase connections . If it doesn't free up and freewheel easy when disconnected then a hub motor or cable is faulty.

Thank you very much for all this information - we now have much cheaper options to explore. Will post again when it is sorted. We cannot thank you all enough for helping us.

 

Should you need a new different controller you HAVE TO/MUST buy a compatible LCD display as well otherwise the bike won't work.

If after carrying out the test listed by vfr and controller is faulty, then use the link/s below for new controller kit.

 

These two controller kits are about $80 with cheapest p&p, one has to select the added components need form the drop down boxes. lcd3 display is the best decent one or the very small lcd4. Add a throttle and speed sensor as they are cheap add on's. BZ10C if you have exterior BB bearings if not a more basic one like the 8 pas model. 108x throttle is best as it is water proof, if you already have a 3 wire throttle then it can be used. The only other item is brakes sensors but you have some so may be able to use them

 

T-06S 24V/36V250W Torque Simulation Sine Wave with Julei Waterproof Connector [T06S controller Waterproof Plug] - $28.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com)

 

T-06S 24V/36V250W Torque Simulation Sine Wave Brushless Controller for Ebike FT-06 36V250W Torque Simulation Square Wave Controller Brushless Controller for Ebike [T-06S controller] - $24.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com)

Don't order anything just yet.

 

That's just reminded me. Some of the Freegos from that time didn't have hall sensors in the motor, so you can't use those controllers that Neal recommended. Anyway, the first thing is to do tests to find out what's wrong.

 

If you don't have a 5-way (possibly 6) connector in your motor cable, and you have just the three yellow, green and blue wires, then you have a sensorless motor and you don't need to do the hall sensor test in my schedule above.

Don't order anything just yet.

 

That's just reminded me. Some of the Freegos from that time didn't have hall sensors in the motor, so you can't use those controllers that Neal recommended. Anyway, the first thing is to do tests to find out what's wrong.

 

If you don't have a 5-way (possibly 6) connector in your motor cable, and you have just the three yellow, green and blue wires, then you have a sensorless motor and you don't need to do the hall sensor test in my schedule above.

 

 

I haven't shown hubby all these posts yet so nothing ordered yet.

Don't order anything just yet.

 

That's just reminded me. Some of the Freegos from that time didn't have hall sensors in the motor, so you can't use those controllers that Neal recommended. Anyway, the first thing is to do tests to find out what's wrong.

 

If you don't have a 5-way (possibly 6) connector in your motor cable, and you have just the three yellow, green and blue wires, then you have a sensorless motor and you don't need to do the hall sensor test in my schedule above.

 

Hi We have now carried out all 6 of your tests hopefully correctly. Everything seems to check out ok apart from test 5 - the motor halls signal wires. The voltage does not pulse when rotating the wheel backwards - it just increases the faster you rotate the wheel up to a max of approximate 5v. One check that we were advised to do was with the power off - connect any two of the blue green and yellow wires together - this should result in resistance when wheel is rotated backwards and this does happen.

 

Throttle signal wire check was ok. If you are happy to talk to hubby by phone then he is ok to do this but we really appreciate all your help.

Hi We have now carried out all 6 of your tests hopefully correctly. Everything seems to check out ok apart from test 5 - the motor halls signal wires. The voltage does not pulse when rotating the wheel backwards - it just increases the faster you rotate the wheel up to a max of approximate 5v. One check that we were advised to do was with the power off - connect any two of the blue green and yellow wires together - this should result in resistance when wheel is rotated backwards and this does happen.

 

Throttle signal wire check was ok. If you are happy to talk to hubby by phone then he is ok to do this but we really appreciate all your help.

Hi We have now carried out all 6 of your tests hopefully correctly. Everything seems to check out ok apart from test 5 - the motor halls signal wires. The voltage does not pulse when rotating the wheel backwards - it just increases the faster you rotate the wheel up to a max of approximate 5v. One check that we were advised to do was with the power off - connect any two of the blue green and yellow wires together - this should result in resistance when wheel is rotated backwards and this does happen.

 

Throttle signal wire check was ok. If you are happy to talk to hubby by phone then he is ok to do this but we really appreciate all your help.

ps - we do have ether 5 wire connector to the motor.

ps - we do have ether 5 wire connector to the motor.

Just to clarify the situation. With everything connected and switched on, please confirm that you have 5v between the red and black wires on the 5-way connector.

 

The next bit you said doesn't make sense, so please clarify. After confirming the 5v on the red and black wires, measure the voltage on each of blue, yellow and green while you turn the wheel backwards slowly. You should see 5v switching on and off several times for each rotation on each of the three wires. Make sure that the meter is set to measure DC volts and not AC.

ps - we do have ether 5 wire connector to the motor.

 

Sorry - Yes we do have 5v between the red and black wires on the 5 way connector.

 

The next bit - The voltage on each of the blue, yellow and green wires, while rotating the wheel slowly backwards does not pulse at 5v. There is voltage there - 0.2 - 0.3 but not pulsing.