Fitting torque arm behind cable head

[Tabman55]

Hi I’m new to building e bike conversion kits and I’ve had a few problems with the rear 1000W hub wheel coming from the axle, I currently have 1 torque arm fitted which has been successful to stop the wheel from spinning so luckily I can still use this kit as no real damage has been done to cable, is there anyway I can remove the cable head and get the torque arm behind it so I can have 2 to fully hold the wheel on? I’ve thought about snipping the wires and using terminal connector blocks to reattach the wires after putting the torque arm on, is this possible or will it just mess with my kit?

id like to know if I will also need a new frame in total for the fact of it has wor out the dropout a little bit from where it’s came out, it’s never been travelling over 8mph before falling out and most it was stationary so I don’t think much damage had been done to it, no one near me will fit electrical kits or do anything with them so it looks like I’m gonna be doing this alone, I haven’t got my soldering kit with me at this house so it would be easier if I could re attach the head with connector blocks instead of soldering/climping them and fitting it back in, could I get some help in knowing if this will work and if it’ll cause problems?

can provide pictures if it will help for people figuring out if I’ll need a new bike frame or if another torque arm could save this problem till I’ve started building my enduro stealth bomber

 

[Nealh]

Did you file the drop outs 2.5 - 3mm deeper so that all the flat edge of the 14mm axle depth actually sits in further, if not then you are inviting problems even with TA's.
Most people think it is easy and don't take in to account that 9mm drop outs aren't suitable for a12 or 14mm deep axle, respectively it means about 1.5 - 2mm & 2.5 - 3mm needs to filed out of a std 9mm axle, unless they are already deep dropouts which normally means horizontal drop outs.

 

[Tabman55]

Did you file the drop outs 2.5 - 3mm deeper so that all the flat edge of the 14mm axle depth actually sits in further, if not then you are inviting problems even with TA's.
Most people think it is easy and don't take in to account that 9mm drop outs aren't suitable for a12 or 14mm deep axle, respectively it means about 1.5 - 2mm & 2.5 - 3mm needs to filed out of a std 9mm axle, unless they are already deep dropouts which normally means horizontal drop outs.

so if I file it down it should rest in nicer obviously, will this solve the problem of it coming out?
I watched a fair amount of installing videos and looked around for everything and thought it would be easy but I haven’t seen any video or anything telling me about the drop out needing filing into, would this also cause me any problems with the rear deralliuer since the wheel will be further up than normal or is it not enough to effect it?

 

[Tabman55]

I found this linked to the hub I bought, does number 4 mean it needs to be that size down in the dropout for it to work best

 

[Nealh]

If the axle flat isn't entirely seated against the drop out face then it has the tendency to want to roll on the opening and thus will wear the ali mouth. The seat of the drop out has to file carefully to leave a slightly rounded seat otherwise metal fatigue will cause cracks at the corners if left square. The TA's are a belt and braces solution to prevent damage to the drop outs but you need the motor axle to do it's part by being fitted properly in the first place.

 

[Nealh]

#4 is just the drop out width that a motor fits, 135mm =/-1 or 2mm is/was pretty standard but some bikes may be a bit wider. The important bit is the axle measure it, mostly all the DD hubs utilise a 14mm deep x 10mm wide axle. If the previous wheel axle was 9mm then it is logical that to fit a 14mm deep axle means some modification may be needed (unless the drop out is extra deep in the first place), one usually has to half the extra depth which would be 2.5mm minimum and make sure it sits in that much deeper. Though ultimately you want the axle flat side to be wholly placed within the drop out for maximum bearing and retention so that 2.5mm might need to be 3mm - 4mm.

 

[Nealh]

As mentioned having the axle seated fully so the flat sides rest wholly in the drop out assists the TA's to do there job properly, the TA's rely on just the one fixing ( a bolt or machine screw to take all of the rotational torque force. If you only fit one TA then the opposing face will still want to try and roll out of the drop out if not fitted correctly, higher power motors should for your safety have a TA on each side, with smaller geared hubs one can just use one TA if the axle is fitted correctly (geared hubs have 12mm deep axles mostly so only need to be sat in 1.5 - 2mm deeper).
The best drop out is a steel framed one.