Finally bought a smaller folder for conversion...

[Deleted member 4366]

I've got one of those testers, but it didn't show anything amiss on mine. I tried three different motors and two different controllers, and I got the same problem with all of them.

When I first built the bike, I couldn't get the motors (front and back) to start properly, but suddenly they seemed OK. The first rides were OK, but then I went up a long steep hill and over-heated both controllers to temperature cut -off, although the motors were only warm. It never ran after that, so I got two new controllers, and still the problem persisted. We spent a whole night testing to try and find the cause. They worked with the KU93 controller, but not the KU63, but the funny thing was that they always started first time after swapping from the KU93 to KU63, but as soon as you let go the throttle, it wouldn't start again - the same for both wheels. Maybe the halls got over-heated a bit or something, but they tested OK. I gave up at that point - defeated.

 

[jackhandy]

I gave up at that point - defeated.

Did I read that right?... D8veh defeated?

I reckon some unscrupulous blackguard's hacked his pedelecs account ......

 

[morphix]

Did I read that right?... D8veh defeated?

I reckon some unscrupulous blackguard's hacked his pedelecs account ......

What?? D8veh? never!

 

[103Alex1]

Got to be a first. Well, the Ku-controller 3-speed switches are the only other mystery that's stumped the Dave-meister ... and that probably means the programming is faulty or something !!

 

[Old_Dave]

defeated

Possible alternative meaning... sod this for a game of soldiers, lifes to short, I'm missing the Archers

 

[morphix]

I've got one of those testers, but it didn't show anything amiss on mine. I tried three different motors and two different controllers, and I got the same problem with all of them.

When I first built the bike, I couldn't get the motors (front and back) to start properly, but suddenly they seemed OK. The first rides were OK, but then I went up a long steep hill and over-heated both controllers to temperature cut -off, although the motors were only warm. It never ran after that, so I got two new controllers, and still the problem persisted. We spent a whole night testing to try and find the cause. They worked with the KU93 controller, but not the KU63, but the funny thing was that they always started first time after swapping from the KU93 to KU63, but as soon as you let go the throttle, it wouldn't start again - the same for both wheels. Maybe the halls got over-heated a bit or something, but they tested OK. I gave up at that point - defeated.

That's exactly what I'm wondering d8veh..maybe the motor or current being draw through is just too powerful for that controller? That might explain why mine doesn't like standing starts but once you been pedalling a bit it plays nicely.. and it's better to upgrade controller? Perhaps its a design issue, or lack of testing..that's one problem with manufacturing in Asia, lack of proper QC procedures which should result in proper testing..

 

[Deleted member 4366]

No. Your paranoid about the 350w power. The motor has less power than a Bafang 250w, so that's not an issue. I never had/have a problem with the 201 rpm version of the motors I have two at 36v and my 24v one spins at about 328rpm with its 36 or 44v batteries. I think that it's a timing problem to do with the hall sensors. For you, it's still worth checking the hall connections carefully, because every one on ES that had a similar problem found damaged hall wires or faulty connections. Try disconnecting the hall sensors completely and see if it runs OK, but noisier, in sensorless mode. I think the problem is that the controller can't make up its mind whether you have sensors or not and switches between the two. Possibly yours is running in sensorless mode, which would also cause bad starting. Mine both worked with a different (than KU63) controller, but these motors do need a high-speed controller.

 

[morphix]

Third test ride... ran out of power

Yesterday I took my new Mezzo e-bike for it's third test ride.. the power remained stable (the intermittent power cut-outs I experienced on the previous test ride seemed to have gone away) however about 3 miles into my journey it started again.. it would start then stop.. but this time there was none of the previous "jolt" or stuttering of the motor like before. It would just start normally then completely halt and the throttle was totally unresponsive.

Suspecting a wiring problem, I pulled over in the dark, and checked everything over with my bikes head light, but all connections looked fine, no loose wires or connectors.. I was close to my brothers house who I had planned to show off the new bike to as he wanted to try it out.. I ended up having to pedal up the incredibly steep hill to his house without power and in 7th gear, standing!! My gears still aren't fixed and need adjusting...any attempt to adjust the chain by hand, and the gears just flew right fly back to 7th.

When I got to his house he took a reading of the battery and it was a little over 34V..he tried the bike around his close and it DID start again, all be it very briefly, before cutting out again and then refusing to start again after that.

We concluded the battery charge was too low and the inner circuit was protecting it. I had obviously underestimated how much power this new motor-controller combo draws compared to my old bike since I hadn't charged it fully since my previous second test ride to my mothers house .. I did charge it yesterday, but only for 30 mins approx as I didn't have much time. I remember thinking..hmmm should I pack my charger just in case... but since I was loaded with parcels and heading to the Sorting office..thought naah it'll be fine.

As it turned out, I ended up having to cycle all the way home unpowered. 3 miles with a bad knee, just because I didn't pack the charger!! Luckily it was mostly downhill and my brother had adjusted the gears for me so I was in 3rd gear, although the shift is still not working and we couldn't work out why.

Anyway, lessons learned!

It's time like this you realise the value of what we're trying to achieve with CycleCharge and/or at least carrying chargers around with you guys!

When I get my Speedict wired up I'll be able to accurately judge how much power is in the battery and its likely range capability..but at the moment I'm riding blindly.

 

[jerrysimon]

Another intermim solution is to connect up a watt meter which will show you how much charge you put in and take out.

Its a faff to keep connecting it up but I use it to see how much capacity my common rides use up so I know how many packs to take as I have modular (1.1Ah, 2.3Ah, 3Ah and 6Ah) packs and just carry combinations as needed. This keeps weight down the heaviest 6Ah pack being 2kg.

I am currently looking at building another experimental pack using these which would give me a 4Ah pack at around 0.9kg. Obviously only useful for lower powered applications like mine. I know lipo would be the lightest solution, but I am just apprehensive about having them in the office.

As you say carrying or having a charger at the other end of the journey is not a bad idea either.

The 1.1Ah one is of limited use lol but always good as a last minute backup.


Regards

Jerry

 

[103Alex1]

Really sorry you're still having problems, Morphix - must be a right pain by now !! Hope the battery charging sorts things out for you.

I think it must be a real challenge getting hill torque and range on a lightweight folder.

 

[cpg]

It's all gone a bit quiet, have you made any progress Morphix?