Given the interesting comment, much discussed around here, that the eZee manufacturer cannot understand why any of us should be experiencing cut outs, I decided to investigate. What I was really doing was just to measure what voltages the LEDs indicate but I discovered something about the cut out in the process. It is widely reported on this forum that the Li Ion battery suffers more from cut outs than the NiMH.
I've seen two types of cut outs with mine, with Li Ion battery, one where it self recovers and one where I had to recycle the on off key.
I set the bike up in a lab, running off a variable power supply instead of the Li Ion battery. BTW, the battery was showing orange under heavy load and measured 40.0 V off load.
On the bike, the indicator LEDs change:
(on the way down)
Green to Orange at 35.4 V
Orange to Red at 33.1 V
Controller starts blinking at 30.9 V
I could not get a total shut down. What I could get was that if the voltage dropped below Vmin then the motor stops and will not start again until the voltage rises to 34.0 V the point at which the Orange LED comes on.
Vmin is tricky to measure; I would need 3 hands to adjust everything simultaneously but its between 33 and 30 V. Further research is needed with a better test set up.
I suspect what we have been reporting as a cut out is the voltage dropping below Vmin and then not rising to 34.0, so it requires cycling the key to get it going again.
My guess is the manufacturer intended a first level of cut out, that is not particularly troublesome, and only requires recycling the throttle. It may be that in some modes of operation the rider would not even register it as a cut out. The second level is a natural, but not necessarily designed in effect of the controller. So he is quite right in saying that what we're reporting is outside what he expects. But we are quite right in saying that it does happen.
Now, it may also be that the NiMH batteries recover to 34.0 V better than the Li Ion, which could be a reason for the thinking that Li Ion cut out more than NiMH. Although officially, cut outs do not occur with either, what we may be experiencing is that the first level of cut out is successful with the NiMH in stopping the progression to full cut out, but not with Li Ion.
I am assuming that the controller, etc,on the bike is the same whichever battery is used. Ie, only the battery and charge differ.
Nick
I've seen two types of cut outs with mine, with Li Ion battery, one where it self recovers and one where I had to recycle the on off key.
I set the bike up in a lab, running off a variable power supply instead of the Li Ion battery. BTW, the battery was showing orange under heavy load and measured 40.0 V off load.
On the bike, the indicator LEDs change:
(on the way up)
Orange to Green at 36.1 V
Red to Orange at 34.0 V
Stops blinking at 34.0 V
I could not get a total shut down. What I could get was that if the voltage dropped below Vmin then the motor stops and will not start again until the voltage rises to 34.0 V the point at which the Orange LED comes on.
Vmin is tricky to measure; I would need 3 hands to adjust everything simultaneously but its between 33 and 30 V. Further research is needed with a better test set up.
I suspect what we have been reporting as a cut out is the voltage dropping below Vmin and then not rising to 34.0, so it requires cycling the key to get it going again.
My guess is the manufacturer intended a first level of cut out, that is not particularly troublesome, and only requires recycling the throttle. It may be that in some modes of operation the rider would not even register it as a cut out. The second level is a natural, but not necessarily designed in effect of the controller. So he is quite right in saying that what we're reporting is outside what he expects. But we are quite right in saying that it does happen.
Now, it may also be that the NiMH batteries recover to 34.0 V better than the Li Ion, which could be a reason for the thinking that Li Ion cut out more than NiMH. Although officially, cut outs do not occur with either, what we may be experiencing is that the first level of cut out is successful with the NiMH in stopping the progression to full cut out, but not with Li Ion.
I am assuming that the controller, etc,on the bike is the same whichever battery is used. Ie, only the battery and charge differ.
Nick
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