Ezee Forza problem

[lee-wave]

This is a 2011 front drive model bought 2nd hand with a dead battery. Fitted a fish style phylion battery - it has performed very well for the past 3 years. This bike I rode with NealH and Chris Comber a year or so ago at Box Hill. Anyway problem at first appears to be a dying battery - battery fully charged but after only a few miles it dips into the red zone then the bikes stops. Self diagnostics flashes 6 times which is a battery low voltage warning. Measuring the battery voltage with a multimeter on the second battery connector the voltage, pre controller, shows a healthy 40.8volts but the led is still in the red zone....exactly the same with a brand new battery. If the Hall wire plug to the motor is disconnected led jumps straight back to the green zone.
Have checked all connectors for water ingress, dismantled controller, checked for water, cleaned all connectors with IPA...etc...still same problem.
Cyclezee reckons its a controller problem- but could it be something else?

Thanks for your help

lee-wave

 

[JuicyBike]

This is a 2011 front drive model bought 2nd hand with a dead battery. Fitted a fish style phylion battery - it has performed very well for the past 3 years. This bike I rode with NealH and Chris Comber a year or so ago at Box Hill. Anyway problem at first appears to be a dying battery - battery fully charged but after only a few miles it dips into the red zone then the bikes stops. Self diagnostics flashes 6 times which is a battery low voltage warning. Measuring the battery voltage with a multimeter on the second battery connector the voltage, pre controller, shows a healthy 40.8volts but the led is still in the red zone....exactly the same with a brand new battery. If the Hall wire plug to the motor is disconnected led jumps straight back to the green zone.
Have checked all connectors for water ingress, dismantled controller, checked for water, cleaned all connectors with IPA...etc...still same problem.
Cyclezee reckons its a controller problem- but could it be something else?

Thanks for your help

lee-wave

He knows his stuff and you should trust his solution.
I'm assuming that you have carefully checked along the cable from the controller to the motor for any signs of damage?
The wires that carry the signals from the hall sensors are very fine and susceptible to damage from stress to that cable.
A solution, if those wires are damaged or if there are issues with the motor sensors, is to use a digital controller - cheaper than replacing a motor and easier than repairing a multi-cored cable for some.