Hi all.
I'd previously had a commuter DIY project that did me well for many years.
It was a Giant hybrid with a mid drive BBSHD.
Loved the thing to bits and managed to get it to behave exactly as I liked
- PAS settings would go from non existent, to slight increments of power
- felt like you could ramp up the PAS levels to go from the spectrum of emphysema to lance armstrong
- PAS9 was effectively a motor bike (rarely bothered with a throttle, and just ghost wheeled)
Recently bought myself a second hand Brompton and love the thing to bits.
Have a potential 10-15km commute coming up, and figured i'd fiddle with a front hub conversion.
Got one of the EZ Rider kits available online.
Installation was very simple and straightforward.
The ride is rather disappointing, to the point that I'd rather not use it, and have since removed it.
I think it's mostly to do with the programming from the controller. I'm wondering if I can salvage the kit and make it better. Couldn't see this anywhere else online, so figured i'd do it. I've popped it open and will attach piccies of the bits.
I'm likely going to misuse terms, my apologies.
I think my issue is that the controller is modifying the max assist speed with the PAS levels. Default was set to PAS1-3, can change the settings to 1-5 or 1-9
- so PAS 1 will kick in with too much power, to say 15kph, and then die
- PAS 2 will do the same, but to a slightly faster speed
- PAS 3 be ridiculous motorbike mode (as much as 250w can be)
what it means is that with a 3 gear brommie
PAS1
- taking off is fine, it ramps up as cadence increases
- hit around 15kph as switching from 1st to 2nd
- speed limit on PAS1 seems to be hit, and no further power output at all
- rather annoying, pretty much only useful going up a hill
- no power at higher speeds means i can feel the drag and increased weight, for no real benefit
PAS2
- power ramps up too quickly in 1st gear
- second gear is also a bit too powerful
- switching 2nd to 3rd and it totally dies in the arse
- cadence drops with the gear change, and there's no power
PAS3
- it's effectively a motorbike
- not ideal as I want some battery efficiency
What i'm used to is this:
electricbike-blog.com
where i could program the BBSHD PAS levels to cut out at 100% of max speed
so for example:
- if max speed = 30kph
- PAS 1 = 33% max current and 100% max speed
- pas 2 = 66% max current and 100% max speed
- pas 3 = 100% max current and 100% max speed
rather than
- pas 1 = 33% current and 33% max speed (ie 10kph cut off)
or what it feels like it is:
- pas1 = 70% current and 33% max speed
I've gone through the settings and can't seem to make any difference
I'm guessing that this is simply a limitation of the hardware, and i'll need to change the controller.
On that note - I couldn't find any info out there on what was inside.
So here's the guts.
Controller:
Looks like an M15 (has m15 printed on the back of the unit)
Similar to here:
to7motor.com
manual attached
Though might be a different version with more limited functionality
- I wasn't able to get into some of the menu options they show
I'm guessing that I'd need to change both the controller and display to get the sort of experience that i'm after?
cheers!
I'd previously had a commuter DIY project that did me well for many years.
It was a Giant hybrid with a mid drive BBSHD.
Loved the thing to bits and managed to get it to behave exactly as I liked
- PAS settings would go from non existent, to slight increments of power
- felt like you could ramp up the PAS levels to go from the spectrum of emphysema to lance armstrong
- PAS9 was effectively a motor bike (rarely bothered with a throttle, and just ghost wheeled)
Recently bought myself a second hand Brompton and love the thing to bits.
Have a potential 10-15km commute coming up, and figured i'd fiddle with a front hub conversion.
Got one of the EZ Rider kits available online.
Installation was very simple and straightforward.
The ride is rather disappointing, to the point that I'd rather not use it, and have since removed it.
I think it's mostly to do with the programming from the controller. I'm wondering if I can salvage the kit and make it better. Couldn't see this anywhere else online, so figured i'd do it. I've popped it open and will attach piccies of the bits.
I'm likely going to misuse terms, my apologies.
I think my issue is that the controller is modifying the max assist speed with the PAS levels. Default was set to PAS1-3, can change the settings to 1-5 or 1-9
- so PAS 1 will kick in with too much power, to say 15kph, and then die
- PAS 2 will do the same, but to a slightly faster speed
- PAS 3 be ridiculous motorbike mode (as much as 250w can be)
what it means is that with a 3 gear brommie
PAS1
- taking off is fine, it ramps up as cadence increases
- hit around 15kph as switching from 1st to 2nd
- speed limit on PAS1 seems to be hit, and no further power output at all
- rather annoying, pretty much only useful going up a hill
- no power at higher speeds means i can feel the drag and increased weight, for no real benefit
PAS2
- power ramps up too quickly in 1st gear
- second gear is also a bit too powerful
- switching 2nd to 3rd and it totally dies in the arse
- cadence drops with the gear change, and there's no power
PAS3
- it's effectively a motorbike
- not ideal as I want some battery efficiency
What i'm used to is this:
A Hacker’s Guide To Programming The BBS02 & BBSHD
One way that the BBS02 middrive unit shines over other competition like the Bosch is the ability to program the controller yourself. Although the process of programming the controller will void any…
electricbike-blog.com
so for example:
- if max speed = 30kph
- PAS 1 = 33% max current and 100% max speed
- pas 2 = 66% max current and 100% max speed
- pas 3 = 100% max current and 100% max speed
rather than
- pas 1 = 33% current and 33% max speed (ie 10kph cut off)
or what it feels like it is:
- pas1 = 70% current and 33% max speed
I've gone through the settings and can't seem to make any difference
I'm guessing that this is simply a limitation of the hardware, and i'll need to change the controller.
On that note - I couldn't find any info out there on what was inside.
So here's the guts.
Controller:
Looks like an M15 (has m15 printed on the back of the unit)
Similar to here:
M15 Ebike Centre Control Panel - To7motor
M15 - To7motor This is a centre control panel with a TFT colorful screen for ebike drive system , transparent silicon rubber button with LED back-light
to7motor.com
Though might be a different version with more limited functionality
- I wasn't able to get into some of the menu options they show
I'm guessing that I'd need to change both the controller and display to get the sort of experience that i'm after?
cheers!
