Eleglide experiences

Good morning to everyone,

 

As I already told HERE, I own an ELEGLIDE M1Plus with 29" wheels. Let me share my experiences with yourself.

 

I bought the 1st one back in October for 750 € from geekbuying. The price there was 799 but as soon as you install the app and register yourself you will get coupons, coins, whatsoever so in this price range (500 to 800) 50 € discount are standard.

 

It got delivered within a few days from a warehouse in Poland, was easy to assemble and it left quite a good impression.

 

But as the warranty is somehow limited (Frame 3 years, battery 6 months, Rest 12 months) and as winter was coming closer I thought it might be wise to bring this bicycle to its limits though afterwards I realized those limits were more my own physical limits. So I decided to do an extensive trip wih several hills with slopes of 10 to 12% and lenghts of 1 km or more.

 

All of a sudden ( my speed was around 5 to 6 kph)motor stopped and display showed E40. Looking trror up in tanual it said: Anomaly in the Hall sensor. The proposed fix was: Replace controls or Replace motor or replace cable to the motor. After a short rest I switched the bike off and back on and it was back in operation though I figured out the rear hub was quite warm.

 

So I sent an email to the Geekbuying support explaining the failure and also giving them the background information like my weight, the slope etc. (BTW: Eleglide is owned by Geekbuying). Next day I received some videos from them with tests I should do. Having done those and sent the videos back the reply was more or less like: "Hey, your bike runs perfect. We don't know what you want from us. And, by the way, you haven't sent a video off the E40 failure."

 

So I replied that I know the bike is still running but that I want an explanation for E40.

Answer was like:"Well it must have been a loose connection. A motor is either broken or it works. It appears your loose connection is now fixed."

Not being too happy with such reply I asked if this would mean I would be good to continue using the vehicle without the fear of losing the warranty which they confirmed.

So I continued using it and did more or less provoke this error to re-appear which it did and even at lower slopes.

So I contacted them again and now I could even supply them with a video showig the displayed "E40". Don't know why but they were quite keen on this.

Then they replied that I should send the bike back in the original package on my costs and they are going to refund me.

I replied:" I don't have the original package and I don't want to return the bike. I want my issue fixed. Just send me the necessary spares and I am going to fix it. Trust me, I am an engineer "

 

Then they offered to send me a spares motor which I accepted though I was a bit astonished because due to the information on their website this motor wasn't stocked in the EU.

But 5 hours later I have got a UPS label and the information:"Pack it in whichever package as long as it is safe, drop it off at UPS. We pay the freight and we refund you as soon as it has arrived in Poland.

 

In the meantime I have registered at the German pedelcforum and the information I have got there (besides loads of comments like "Hub motors are shit" or "You can't buy such chinese scrap") was that the way I have used it wouldn't be good for any hub motor even from more expensive brands and that I shold be glad my controller have put it out of operations early enough.

 

So my decision was to buy exacty the same bike again and either avoid such slopes or if I am in the footwalking speed range (app. 5 kph) hop off the bike, put it in push mode and walk.

And in the long term work on your weight and your personal fitness .

 

By the time I have oredered the 2nd one it was "Black Week" and I even got it for 650.

 

Since then I am following the above rules and in case I do know that a heavy slope is to appear I go onto the smallest front wheel early enough.

 

I am so far happy with it now. Let's see whether this will continue.

 

If you are capable of reading German you will find more Details HERE

 

Cheers and have a good weekend

Edited January 5, 20242 yr by Paul1962

Didn't know that "political correctness" is that far in the UK. In one phrase I used the word for what is coming out of a humans backside and it got converted automatically into 4 stars

Love your attitude Paul. If your bike doesn't work, you just buy another one. If I were you I would unplug motor and plug it back again while making sure plug goes deep enough.

 

I wonder if you have overheated your motor. 5km/h is not exactly a comfort speed for motors.

Edited January 5, 20242 yr by Az.

Didn't know that "political correctness" is that far in the UK. In one phrase I used the word for what is coming out of a humans backside and it got converted automatically into 4 stars

 

It's the forum rules Paul, an extract below:

 

 

Forum Rules & Terms of Use

 

These terms of use may be changed at any time without notice:

 

You are responsible for what you post.

 

We welcome constructive, informative, tasteful and civil posts.

 

The forum is intended to be as pleasant a place as possible for all – for newbies and veterans alike. No flaming or disrespect for others please.

 

We ask that you kindly abide by the following rules:

 

1. No profanity or obscenities of any kind, even written back to front or disguised with asterisks etc.

.

Love your attitude Paul. If your bike doesn't work, you just buy another one. If I were you I would unplug motor and plug it back again while making sure plug goes deep enough.

 

I wonder if you have overheated your motor. 5km/h is not exactly a comfort speed for motors.

I have for sure overheated it. I do just assume that this Error "E40" does also appear when overheating but it just didn't find its way into the manual.

I have for sure overheated it.

 

Yes, I think that was the problem.

I really like to read your posts. You have a hidden talent. I must say I am not a fan of Eleglide bikes not because there is something wrong with hub drives, but because their bikes are *****. You are an engineer you say? I feel sorry for your wife. Soon enough you will end up with shed full of bikes and motors just like me. Mark my words and don't fight it... embrace it. This is the way

Soon enough you will end up with shed full of bikes and motors

There's not much space left. The most is occupied by Motorcycles

Answer was like:"Well it must have been a loose connection. A motor is either broken or it works. It appears your loose connection is now fixed."

Not being too happy with such reply I asked if this would mean I would be good to continue using the vehicle without the fear of losing the warranty which they confirmed.

So I continued using it and did more or less provoke this error to re-appear which it did and even at lower slopes.

There's a very strong possibility that they were right. It's very common that the motor connector isn't pushed in far enough, which would give the symptoms you describe. There is a line on the connector that marks how far the outer part must reach. The problem is that the connector is quite tight , and people think it's pushed in far enough when it isn't because they don't know about the marked line. Even 1mm short of the mark can give the problems you describe. If not fixed, you can get consequential damage from the motor and/or controller overheating - typically burnt hall sensors in the motor or, blown MOSFETs in the controller or melted wires.

 

As you know, running the motor too slow with high power can also cause problems, but more likely blown MOSFETs or melted wires than error 40, though anything is possible.

 

I think it would be worth testing the original motor. There's a strong possibility that there's nothing wrong with it. Another guy on this forum had the same problem as you. He got a replacement motor. When I explained this to him, he bought another controller and installed the old motor in another bike and found that it worked without problems.

 

There's a very strong possibility that they were right. It's very common that the motor connector isn't pushed in far enough, which would give the symptoms you describe. There is a line on the connector that marks how far the outer part must reach. The problem is that the connector is quite tight , and people think it's pushed in far enough when it isn't because they don't know about the marked line. Even 1mm short of the mark can give the problems you describe. If not fixed, you can get consequential damage from the motor and/or controller overheating - typically burnt hall sensors in the motor or, blown MOSFETs in the controller or melted wires.

 

As you know, running the motor too slow with high power can also cause problems, but more likely blown MOSFETs or melted wires than error 40, though anything is possible.

 

I think it would be worth testing the original motor. There's a strong possibility that there's nothing wrong with it. Another guy on this forum had the same problem as you. he got a replacement motor. When I explained this to him, he bought another controller and installed the old motor in another bike and found that it worked without problems.

But it isn't available any longer as I sent the bicycle back.

All in all they were quite generous. I guess a local dealer would have tried to blame me for having abused the vehicle.

 

That makes sense. Thanks for sharing

Didn't know that "political correctness" is that far in the UK. In one phrase I used the word for what is coming out of a humans backside and it got converted automatically into 4 stars

Lesson in English: You can add an e to it to make it "shite", which is a sort of polite or upper-class way to say it - basically turning a turd into a polished turd.

So I decided to do an extensive trip wih several hills with slopes of 10 to 12% and lenghts of 1 km or more.

 

I must admit to testing out electric bikes on steep hills too ! And an engineering background

 

I am 105kg , 59 years old, quite a strong pedaller

 

I've tried the above hill on my 48 v mid drive Bafang BBS bike and flew up it (mind you it does have max current of 25 amps!)

I tried it on my 36V XF08C hub drive with 15 amp controller and the motor cut out on the section that is 28%, (presumably overheating ?) after a prolonged stretch between 10- 20% . I walked it up that short section and then it was working again. Not had any further problems, either on that trip or subsequently.

I also tried it on my 48V Bafang G020 H400b/405 (winding code 12, 26 inch wheels) hub motor, both with the original 18A controller and with the 15A controller that comes with the Woosh Bottom Bracket torque sensor kit. I managed to get up the 28% section, although I had slowed to 6-8 km/h and the motor continued working - this was probably at my limit - I wouldn't have been able that amount of pedalling effort for much longer !

 

Naively ? I would have expected the motor would cut out when overheating but not any permanent damage ? What would the more experienced pedelecers expect ?

It is possible that although e40 claims to be Hall error, that with your riding slowly up an incline also may have been a thermal cut out . Mosfets in the controller will temporary short out if they reach their maximum temperature, next time it occurs one can see if this is so by trying to touch the controller. If it is the cause then the controller will be so hot you will burn your self, mosfets once cooled down will switch again and the system will work.

As you have realised inclines require a faster speed and more power.

 

How big are these Eleglide motors?

They seem larger than your typical 250w/350w rated motor.

 

It's the first time I looked at an Eleglide bike since last fall when I was on the* brink of purchasing one but for two reasons:

 

It's an M frame on 26" wheels (I'm tall,now I see they come with 29er or 27.5 which is very good).

 

Reviews of them failing scared me. Albeit I've seen people who have been happy with them also.

 

Anyway, hopefully the post fits with the thread, I'm genuinely surprised at the size of the motor on Eleglides.

 

How powerful was your motor [mention=41391]Paul1962[/mention]?

When your bike worked that is.

 

*typo

Edited February 1, 20242 yr by throwawaychap

How powerful?? Well, how should I answer this? Powerful enough for me who is

a.) 62 years old and

b.) 110 kgs light and

c.) kind of limited as I was having a bypass operation in my left leg 11 mths ago and I am still wearing surgical stockings.

 

That is all I can tell about "How powerful is it?"

 

As I wrote the first one failed with m as well but that was as I could learn in the meantime not the bicycles fault, but my personal hubmotor handlicng fault as I was using it in a way where an overheating issue was more or less forseeable. But the dealer (geekbuying.com) was quite generous in reimburisng me completely and even paying the transport

 

Coming to your question about motors size: I would judge it as quite small and that's what the spares section of the eleglide webite says:

 

By the way: I was looking at them also already since quite a while as I judged the price-value ratio as extremely good but as I am 193 cm ( 6ft 4") I could only convince my other half ( the one inside myself, not my wife )since I saw the 29" version which works but I shouldnt be much taller than I am.

On eleglide.com it shows the M2 as 570W max instantaneous power and the M1 plus as 400W max instantaneous power

[ATTACH alt=eleglide m2.jpg]56201[/ATTACH][ATTACH alt=eleglide m2 b.jpg]56202[/ATTACH]

 

How big are these Eleglide motors?

They seem larger than your typical 250w/350w rated motor.

 

It's the first time I looked at an Eleglide bike since last fall when I was brink of purchasing one but for two reasons:

 

It's an M frame on 26" wheels (I'm tall,now I see they come with 29er or 27.5 which is very good).

 

Reviews of them failing scared me. Albeit I've seen people who have been happy with them also.

 

Anyway, hopefully the post fits with the thread, I'm genuinely surprised at the size of the motor on Eleglides.

 

How powerful was your motor [mention=41391]Paul1962[/mention]?

When your bike worked that is.

The motor is just a transducer. the power is decided and regulated by the controller, and it's provided by the battery. You can get a good idea of how much power you will get by multiplying the battery voltage times the max current written on the controller.

 

36v x 15A = 540 is OK. It can manage most hills with some fairly strong pedalling if you're average fitness and not more than 85kg

48v x 15A = 720 will get a 100kg rider up most steep hills without serious effort.

48v x 20A = 960 will get an unfit heavy person up most hills without too much effort.

36v x 12A = 432 is OK for light riders that don't have long and steep hills or for fit riders.

24v x 12A = 288 is a bit weak - OK for some assistance with rides without steep hills.

 

Any of the above could apply to a legal 250w motor. You could use any of those batteries and controllers to most motors and see the same difference. Obviously, some of the smallest motors can't handle the higher powers so well, but some small ones can, and all the middle-sized ones shouldn't have any problems unless they are wound for high speed.

 

The main point is that size doesn't really matter, though the bigger the motor, the more durable they tend to be.

 

 

The main point is that size doesn't really matter, though the bigger the motor, the more durable they tend to be.

 

Very informative as always Mr. Saneagle.

 

 

Unless they are direct drive ones, right? I don't know much about them but I've seen people say they're rubbish if you don't constantly ride at insane speeds.

 

Have you ever tried one?

Very informative as always Mr. Saneagle.

 

 

Unless they are direct drive ones, right? I don't know much about them but I've seen people say they're rubbish if you don't constantly ride at insane speeds.

 

Have you ever tried one?

Yes, I've tried direct drive motors of several types. Panasonic, Bionx and the Mercedes Smart Bike were all quite good, but I guess you're talking about the Chinese dinner plate type, which need a decent amount of current to come alive. The problem with them is that most are wound for a fairly high speed, so quite inefficient at our legal speeds, but you can get them with low speed windings, though not very easy to find.

 

I prefer the normal geared hub-motors because they're lighter, have good torque at low speed are just as durable, but, best of all, they freewheel a bit better.

Unless they are direct drive ones, right? I don't know much about them but I've seen people say they're rubbish if you don't constantly ride at insane speeds.

 

Have you ever tried one?

something like this you mean?

 

 

No markings on the hub i could trace so im guessing its 1000w Very thin.. (that was a temp battery mount trial..)

 

Its not practice, literally too much zip/acceleration without restricting its 28a controller, Clobber up and take it to some soft ground and let rip and im sure its gonna be fun falling off with the back wheel skidding out from you if you try the slightest acceleration on a turn, And 30 years ago i would have lurved doing a bit of that, today however.. ( no undue risk of the back skidding out on a good clean rd, but slippy grass man hole covers..)

 

it had been ridden without brake cut off sensors and gotten into some accident where the motor had ripped half the spokes from the wheel, then it was just left out in the rain for months, arriving with me in boxes, i re-spoked a replacement rim and salvaged the controller but not the headset which was smashed.

 

the back wheel is well built and true, but the bike feels shakey even with a better battery position, and axle braces, more of an oo-eer ride than a 'weeee' ride upto 25-26mph its a bloody rocket then acceleration slows down considerably as it increases speed bit by bit, and then you feel the wind resistance.. and its not accelerating much

 

significantly less fun than expected to ride My plan of offloading it to a neighbor who delivers chinese food of an evening died after ridding the thing, I like my neighbor, he is a good bloke, best he keep warm and alive in his car imho.

i .....salvaged the controller but not the headset which was smashed.

 

I've got to mention it. It's like when somebody has a bogie hanging out their nose and nobody wants to tell them.

 

"Headset" has a special meaning on a bike. It's the two sets of bearings in the "steering head" between the "head-tube" and the "steerer tube" that allow the steering.

As you can see

it looks as if Eleglide is shortly going to offer a mid-drive Pedelec as well.

Still not visible on their website neither on geekbuying.com .

Let's wait wich price it will be offered for.

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="56209]56209[/ATTACH]

The ananda motor is very popular amongst OEMs. Logical choice.