ELECTRIC RECUMBENT TRIKE

[clwyd smallwood]

Hi all. I've owned an etrike for some years, I bought it like that and don't know much about them. It wasn't working when I bought it but I managed to get it working on the thumb throttle alone. I rode it like that until I was taken ill early 2020. The trike sat in the shed for two years or a little more.
A couple of months ago I was well enough to tinker with it, it looked very sorry for itself so i decided to give it the works. I stripped it completely down to the frame and had the frame powder coted in a brilliant orange to be seen on the road.
I've rebuilt it with new bearings everywhere, wheels, bottom bracket (on the front perhaps I should call it the front bracket?) and the chain idler pulleys. I re-packet the steeting bearings, all three of them, and adjusted. Everything was ready to go so I charged the (48V) battery and fitted it back in place and all I could get was a very rumbly rear hub motor before it stopped with an Error03 on the display. Switch off and try agaain and every time I get this lumpy noise from the motor and Error03. I've checked all the connections to the motor, the controller, the throttle and the disply screen. All seems ok.
I thought the battery must be shot as it had stood so long without charging so I invested, great expense, in a new battery (X-GO off ebay) same size, 48V, 1500W and 30A max. When this arrived I charged it fully as instructions (came with a charger by the way) and fitted it to the rear rack where the old battery sat and ran it again. Switched on the display, worked the thumb throttle and "CLICK" like a fuse had blown and now I get Error01. Another thing I've noticed is the rear wheel motor now seems to be stiff to turn. The wheel used to spin freely but now it seems to be binding or being held back by the magnetic field. It's not rubbing on anythiing.
Switched all off and tried it again and same thing but no click just Eroor01. There battery voltage is good going into the controller at 52V. Any ideas anyone?
I'm happy, having already invested quite a lot of my monthly pension into the trike, if I have to, invest in new controller, display, throttle, and rear wheel/motor. It's no use sitting there looking like new if I can't have the electric assistance which I need to be able to ride it.
By the way, it doesn't have brake lever switches as the brake levers have to have the option to hold them on by pressing a button on the lever as the trike, if left on an incline, will just roll away.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

[Nealh]

Can you show us apic of the motor controller ( aluminium metal box) which the hub motor cable will go to and a pic of the display lcd.
The latest issue of the hub motor not turning is probably a blown controller ( mosfets have smoked), one can confirm this by disconecting the hub motor cable joint along the rear stay and the motor should free up and turn by hand with little resistance.

We really need to see nice pics of all the electic wiring from the controller & the hub as well apart from the two I have already mentioned.

To know that the error code relate to we need to know the controller make.
Different manufacturers use differing error codes so they aren't universal.

Lishui , Bafang and KT brands all have differing faults for the same error number so it is pointless us trying to guess.

 

[clwyd smallwood]

Can you show us apic of the motor controller ( aluminium metal box) which the hub motor cable will go to and a pic of the display lcd.
The latest issue of the hub motor not turning is probably a blown controller ( mosfets have smoked), one can confirm this by disconecting the hub motor cable joint along the rear stay and the motor should free up and turn by hand with little resistance.

We really need to see nice pics of all the electic wiring from the controller & the hub as well apart from the two I have already mentioned.

To know that the error code relate to we need to know the controller make.
Different manufacturers use differing error codes so they aren't universal.

Lishui , Bafang and KT brands all have differing faults for the same error number so it is pointless us trying to guess.

 

[clwyd smallwood]

 

[clwyd smallwood]

I hope the pics are of some use. Apologies for the mess in the mancave !!

The block connector on the battery cable is only for testing purposes. I'll solder and shrink sleeve them when I'm happy everything is working. I've opened the lid on the controller (sorry should have taken photo of that too) and there's no bad smell and no sign of burning. The rear wheel has "freed off" after disconnecting the controller as you suggested. Hopefully that hasn't cooked inside. I can't show pics of wiring as it's all threaded in the "laid back hammock type seat" as all the straps supporting the seat need un-threading fron about twenty loops welded to the frame. I will do if essential but not unless neccessary. Display lights up ok but goes into error as soon as throttle is activated.
Thanks for taking the time to read and offer solutions. Your help in genuinely appreciated. I loved tootling along on the trike as it's so easy to pedal compared to a normal bike. The beauty is you can stop, admire the view, have a cup of coffee and a cake all without having to get out of the seat. I miss that a lot.
Kind regards and thank you

Oh the controller has KT on the label so I guess it's one of them which you mentioned.

 

[Nealh]

Ah a cyclotricity kit, the electrics are KT Kuenteng.
The motor Halls or at least one is fried that accounts for the error 3 and error 3 still exists but error 1 has usurped it at the mo. Error 1 is a throttle fault but shouldn't affect the motor. The motor resistance is due to a phase issue.

Disconnect the motor connector in the first pic and see if the wheel frees up, If it does then the controller has fried or I should say the mosfets have fried.

 

[clwyd smallwood]

Hi & thanks for the reply. I can't figure out from your message what the problem might be and what to replace next. Is it because from the information I've provided it could be a number of things? I know nothing about these things, consequently I don't know what to do next. I guess I'll have to replaece the lot. I can't replace one component at a time for fear of an existing dodgy item cooking one of the new bits.
Where can I buy new Cyclotricity parts or would you recommend steering away from Cyclotricity? I guess they are bottom end f the market.

Thanks

 

[Nealh]

As I said disconnect the motor cable joint, if the wheel frees up then the controller is blown.
I wouldn't bother buying from cycltricity, just but a new KT controller kit if worried about something shorting out.
One can buy KT stuff on ebay , Aliexpress, Topbikekit , Greenbikekit, PSPower or other China sites or forum member Daniel at his website Torquetech.
The adavntages of KT is they are widely available and one can choose from about a dozen displays to use, another advanatge is the user friendly current control and easy configuration of the settings.

 

[Nealh]

The issue even with new stuff is the failed motor hall sensor/s they will need replacing or one can try running sensor less.
Also one needs a KT display that has the extra L parameter settings, L3/0 setting allows the controller to run without Halls.

 

[clwyd smallwood]

Hi again. I did say in my previous but one message that after disconnecting the power lead the wheel did free off and this is still the case. Thanks for your help. I may be back but I have contacted Daniel at Torquetech by email for his slant on things and replacement parts as he thinks necessary.

 

[Nealh]

If the wheel freed up once the motor cable was discinnected then the controller is faulty. your issues aren't numeruous but their are two issues one the controller mosfet/s have blown and two the hub motor has a failed Hall sensor or two.

 

[clwyd smallwood]

Thank you Nealh for all your help. I notice in my emails I have a reply from Torquetech so I'll see ehat they say before coming back to you. Thanks very much.