Electric Bike Stopped Working........ Help!!!!

[Dreamer]

Hook it up to the battery and see if the light comes on. You can check at the battery connector where bike plugs in for voltage change.

Disconnect battery from bike.

Get your meter on to check the voltage at the battery terminals you plug the bike into, then turn on charger as you meter it. If voltage goes up charger is fine.

Would be easier if we could put in wee drawings

Or as Neptune says hook lights up in series then attach to the charger terminals and see if they light up or glow at least. Mind not to short anything.

 

[paulhipwood]

Dear All

I have been reading through this post and we obviously have a big range of expertise and knowledge.
The problem with this is that jargon is used and instructions that would be clear to a person with equal knowledge but to someone who has not got that knowledge would be confusing.
THIS IS NOT A CRITISM.
As stated in the last post would it not be good to have a basic circuit diagram(s) to refer to.

Best of luck Chris, give us a call if you want to.

regards
paul

 

[Dreamer]

Im trying to keep it as simple as i can. But i understand what your saying looking at some of the posts.

A simple draw board ability would make a big difference, nothing complex. Though i suppose it can be done with an external program and added as a pic. Just be handy if it was part of the forum, more people would use it to draw out simple things like cells and meter hook up points etc.

Maybe something to suggest in the forum upgrade post, if it is possible to add such a feature.

 

[chris301up]

Hi all. As I have mentioned in my previous posts I have connected the 3 x 12 volt lights (wired in series) across the charger terminals, but nothing. The displayer unit, connected the same, does in fact work.

I wish I could get hold of a wiring diagram which would make life a little easier!

I have now removed the battery and tried to dismantle it, but the cells appear to be an integral part of the unit, and I cannot remove them. I can only assume the BMS board is buried deep inside the unit?

 

[shemozzle999]

If you put the ammeter across the battery terminals by mistake earlier I would re-check the battery fuse, you may have blown it. Likewise for the battery charger.

 

[Dreamer]

Yeah unfortunately it probably will be i dont know that battery though so i cant say for sure.

To be honest maybe you would be best to take Frank up on his kind offer. He could connect a new battery up to it and check it all out with ease.

Plus easier to learn when someone is showing you face to face. Learning the hard way can cost money ie charger situation.

Please dont take offense, just electronics is a tricky thing at times and its hard to explain fault finding over a forum.

 

[NRG]

...although unlikely and you may have blown the fuse in the meter as well! The ammeter must be wired in series with the test load. As mentioned previously the charged will not output enough amps to run the three bulbs in series, it may or may not have short circuit protection on the output...if its still outputting the correct volts then you are OK...

 

[neptune]

Agree with NRG. check if charger is still outputting volts . If not check charger internal fuse . Do not connect lamp load across charger as it will most probably overload it . Check multimeter fuse if fitted.

 

[chris301up]

Hi all. Bingo... I have dismantled the whole lot again.... Reconnected everything off the bike, except for the rear wheel/motor... and it's working! I have no idea why? Will start to reassembly later and see if it still works then?

Why me? Why is everything so complicated?

Will update you when I know more.

 

[funkylyn]

Hi all. Bingo... I have dismantled the whole lot again.... Reconnected everything off the bike, except for the rear wheel/motor... and it's working! I have no idea why? Will start to reassembly later and see if it still works then?

Why me? Why is everything so complicated?

Will update you when I know more.

Phew......thank god for that.....I've no nails left

Top tip.....If it doesnt work when reassembled back into a bike , carefully disconnect all again
and sell on as working parts

Seriously, well done (I hope ) and if its any consolation......what do they say.....

" lifes a bitch..... and then you die "

Lynda

 

[Dreamer]

Nice one, fingers crossed.

Murphy's law comes to mind.

 

[paulhipwood]

How many people are trying to think of something funny to say. lol

Well done

 

[bazwaldo]

Hi,
I have a Bearprint ebike which looks very similar to your bike, you may have seen my posts review, etc.
My bike also had an electrical fault which was fixed by a local Freego dealer, my fault was traced to a faulty front wiring loom.
The point is that our bikes all share a generic Chinese heritage including similar parts. Juicybike are also very similar.
I was also able to source a "Silverfish" replacement battery direct from China which I believe would also fit your bike.
It came with a replacement battery connector bottom plate and slide rail and charger.
If it is helpful I can PM the suppliers details to you.
Good luck fixing your bike and please do not give up anything can be overcome as long as it is economic.
Best wishes,
Barry.

 

[flecc]

Why is everything so complicated?

To stop it being boring!

 

[neptune]

@Chris301up. Pleased things are working. You will need to keep your spirits up, because as it is an intermittent fault, it will likely recur. However next time you will be better equipped to deal with it . Is your charger working OK ? Remember what we said about a multimeter on amps range . You must not connect it to a battery or charger directly , because that is just like sticking a piece of wire across the output. Your meter will blow a fuse , or if it has no fuse, the Magic Smoke will escape and it will never work again. An amp meter must only be connected in series with a power source [battery or charger] and a SUITABLE LOAD.THAT IS A LOAD THAT IS OF SUFFICIENTLY HIGH RESISTANCE that it does not draw more current than the power source is happy to supply and that the meter can handle on the range selected. Ask advice on this forum before doing any current {amp} tests . Remember not to attempt resistance[ohms] tests on a live circuit. I am really happy that you have made progress, and learned something. My only disappointment is that you did not take up my offer and dump it in my garage! A very basic and useful tool in diagnostics is Ohms law. I can explain that , but only if asked.

 

[chris301up]

RIGHT! IT'S SORTED! Found a dry solder connection on the main fuse of the battery. This was the obvious culprit all along. If it wasn't for me stripping down the battery pack, and then noticing many sparks, it would have remained a complete and utter mystery.

I have now found a problem with one of the micro switches on the brakes, but after further examination it appears that it is only a broken wire, which I am hoping to sort tomorrow?

I would like to thank you all for your kind help, advice and a great deal of patience. If it wasn't for this forum, and the knowledge of it's members, my 'Little Black Beast' would have ended up at the local tip before now!

THANK YOU...! THANK YOU...! THANK YOU...!

 

[Dreamer]

Just glad your sorted as I was in the same boat few weeks ago. It can be very frustrating.

Alot oh peeps will have learned from this post myself included. Spose thats what the forum is all about.

Have fun.

 

[JuicyBike]

Brilliant!

 

[paulhipwood]

Well done, glad you got there in the end

 

[neptune]

A golden lesson for us all. A voltage reading on its own is not a reliable indication that a battery is capable of supplying enough current to drive a motor, or any substantial load. Note that in this case, the battery could not supply enough current to light the LED display! A voltmeter, being a very high resistance device, draws only a microscopic amount of current. Every ebike rider should own a dummy load in the form of a string of headlamp bulbs. Years ago, I had an old Bedford van . Every now and then, the engine would cut out. A quick multimeter test showed 12 volts at the distributor, but there was no spark. after a few minutes, the fault would disappear. One day, the fault occured when I had left my meter at home , so I had to use a test lamp . No power at the distributor . Close scrutiny revealed a damaged wire from the ignition switch to the distributor . There was damaged insulation, and green corrosion. New wire, problem solved.