Help! E-Bike Hall sensors keep blowing

[Harry.B-stealth-]

Hi, I’m new to the forum and was hoping for a bit of help with my ebike. I own a B52 stealth bomber and have had numerous problems after around a year of owning. I somehow burnt out the crystalyte motor which I took to an ebike shop who replaced it with a qs 205 3kw motor. The repair seemed a bit poor and then i fried the original controller with this more powerful motor as the phase wires weren’t thick enough causing the overheat, so another painful walk home £870 down the drain and back to square one!
I decided to study a bit about ebikes as I no longer have faith in taking my bike to the shop. I chose to replace the controller with the sabvoton 72200 200A which miraculously I managed to fit and the bike was up and running again!! The bike has a lot more power now
(With zero experience in these before, shows how much you can learn if you want it haha)

I managed to get about 100 miles on the bike not crazy riding and when I put it away one night and went to go out again the next day It let me give a bit of throttle then nothing with the app showing hall fault. So I tested with the ebike tester and the blue Hall had broken. So another daunting fix but I managed to sort it and replace the hall! So I got one ride on it, the morning after no throttle again This time the yellow hall is shot. At this point I’m ready for giving up . I know if I replace this one it will just happen again, I just have no idea what could be causing this. I find it odd how I managed to get back home both times and it not break during the ride ? Any help is much appreciated

 

[Crawfojo]

Hi, I’m new to the forum and was hoping for a bit of help with my ebike. I own a B52 stealth bomber and have had numerous problems after around a year of owning. I somehow burnt out the crystalyte motor which I took to an ebike shop who replaced it with a qs 205 3kw motor. The repair seemed a bit poor and then i fried the original controller with this more powerful motor as the phase wires weren’t thick enough causing the overheat, so another painful walk home £870 down the drain and back to square one!
I decided to study a bit about ebikes as I no longer have faith in taking my bike to the shop. I chose to replace the controller with the sabvoton 72200 200A which miraculously I managed to fit and the bike was up and running again!! The bike has a lot more power now
(With zero experience in these before, shows how much you can learn if you want it haha)

I managed to get about 100 miles on the bike not crazy riding and when I put it away one night and went to go out again the next day It let me give a bit of throttle then nothing with the app showing hall fault. So I tested with the ebike tester and the blue Hall had broken. So another daunting fix but I managed to sort it and replace the hall! So I got one ride on it, the morning after no throttle again This time the yellow hall is shot. At this point I’m ready for giving up . I know if I replace this one it will just happen again, I just have no idea what could be causing this. I find it odd how I managed to get back home both times and it not break during the ride ? Any help is much appreciated

Is it possible there is water in your hub? Also is it possible there is an overvoltage to the hall. If you have access to your hall get the number off it and look up the data sheet on it and see what the rated voltages are

 

[Crawfojo]

Is it possible there is water in your hub? Also is it possible there is an overvoltage to the hall. If you have access to your hall get the number off it and look up the data sheet on it and see what the rated voltages are

One other possibility could it be heat damage? Heat can melt the hall senser wire causing a short.

 

[Harry.B-stealth-]

Is it possible there is water in your hub? Also is it possible there is an overvoltage to the hall. If you have access to your hall get the number off it and look up the data sheet on it and see what the rated voltages are

Thank you for your quick reply!
there were signs of water in the hub but only minor bits of rust. There was rust on the one I replaced, but since fixed I’ve only done around 10 miles on it in dry conditions, the motor might of been warm to touch, but not hot hot. I checked the voltage of the blue and green halls which give from 0-5v which is right no?

The Halls were all original from manufacturer and the one I changed I used a bipolar 41f which still appears to be ok. Im going to open the motor up again today and I’ll take some photos.

May it just be worth replacing all the originals ? I just don’t want to seal it all back up and have to do it again .

thanks a lot

 

[Harry.B-stealth-]

That’s the one that’s blown (yellow). Could it be the water ?

 

[Crawfojo]

Thank you for your quick reply!
there were signs of water in the hub but only minor bits of rust. There was rust on the one I replaced, but since fixed I’ve only done around 10 miles on it in dry conditions, the motor might of been warm to touch, but not hot hot. I checked the voltage of the blue and green halls which give from 0-5v which is right no?

The Halls were all original from manufacturer and the one I changed I used a bipolar 41f which still appears to be ok. Im going to open the motor up again today and I’ll take some photos.

May it just be worth replacing all the originals ? I just don’t want to seal it all back up and have to do it again .

thanks a lot

Your problem makes a good argument for the use of senserless controllers. Good luck

 

[Harry.B-stealth-]

Your problem makes a

Your problem makes a good argument for the use of senserless controllers. Good luck

Yes I agree, a bit late now haha. I’ve replaced all the originals and put back together, going to test tomorrow. Hopefully I get more than one ride. Thanks