Dillenger kit, possible to upgrade controller?

[John_S]

Hello. I've got a bike with the 36v Dillenger road-legal front hub kit that has a 15a Lishui controller (product no.: LSW1155-19F) and Bafang C965 LCD display. I'd like to upgrade the controller to one with more current to give more of a boost going up hills. It would need to be an external controller as it wouldn't fit in the tiny enclosure designed for the current controller. I'm wondering if anyone can suggest a compatible controller that has greater current (preferably 20a or more)? Many thanks

 

[Benjahmin]

You will need to buy a controller and display as a pair to ensure they communicate.
This KT one from Topbikekit is dual voltage so you could go to 48v when your battery dies later on.

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You can pick a display to suit.

The maximum current can be adjusted in settings. Going from 15A to 20A may be too much for your battery to deliver without voltage sag and or damage. I would suggest 17A and see how you go.

 

[sjpt]

You'll almost certainly need to update the display when you update the controller.
whoops. crossed with Benjahmin's post.

 

[Nealh]

One assumes the exsisting controller uses solid state type electronics so a shunt mod is out of the question ( though is possible).
Suggested scenario is to upgrade to a KT system for about £80, the KT programming allows a wider power range on PAS from 13% - 100% in five stages of power.

 

[saneagle]

Hello. I've got a bike with the 36v Dillenger road-legal front hub kit that has a 15a Lishui controller (product no.: LSW1155-19F) and Bafang C965 LCD display. I'd like to upgrade the controller to one with more current to give more of a boost going up hills. It would need to be an external controller as it wouldn't fit in the tiny enclosure designed for the current controller. I'm wondering if anyone can suggest a compatible controller that has greater current (preferably 20a or more)? Many thanks

A lot depends on which battery you have and how old it is. We always recommend KT controllers because they have so many useful functions, but, most of all they, use power control for the pedal assist instead of the normal speed control, which gives you total control over how hard you want to pedal and how fast you want to go independently from each other.

They come in 15A, 17A, 20A and 22A versions, and the 20A and 22A ones come in different sizes (small and medium). It can take a lot of searching for the one you want on Amazon, Ebay, Aliexpress, the Chinese resellers and anywhere else. The small ones are more convenient, but don't handle the heat as well. All of them allow you to turn the maximum current down a bit in the settings if your battery struggles. As well as that, running a 22A on level 4 is the same as running a 15A one on level 5 because the PAS levels are power levels.

Also, you can get them with sealed waterproof connectors or the block connectors. I always recommend block connectors because you can get at the pins to test what's going on when your setup doesn't work. Testing is very tricky with the sealed connectors because you can't see or touch the wires in the cables, and when you swap controllers, the wires are not always in the right sequence in the connector.

As already said, you have to buy a KT LCD (not LED display and not LCD1) with it, but they pretty well always work with any KT LCD wherever you get one from and whichever one you get. If you buy from Topbike kit, you get a picking list of the other parts. If you don't already have an LCD with speed display, you probably need to get a speed sensor. The pedal sensor is cheap, so why not get one at the same time that guarantees a match. Also, you can use a throttle legally as a power boost. Think about whether you need a new motor cable to match the controller connectors. These controllers have quite a fast response, so no need to panic about brake sensors.