Did I fry my control box, motor or both?

Hansen

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 13, 2011
8
0
Denmark
The other day my Bafang 250W front motor from Sunlova started to emit some ugly sounding knocking noises. This has happened a couple of times before when the detachable power connector from the control box to the front wheel has been pulled nearly apart. That can happen when the handlebars turn almost 180 degrees and the bike is on the centre stand.

A bit of fiddling with the power cable seemed to fix the problem. But when I started my return trip some hours later, I had no assistance from the motor at all.

On closer examination I found that the insulation on the power cable had worn through causing a short circuit. There is a sharp edge where the front fender is attached to the fork. Poor routing of the cable on my part!

The symptoms are:

When I turn on the battery the lights on the throttle go on, but as soon as I twist the throttle or turn the pedals (in Pedelec mode) the lights go out. Sometimes there is a jolt like the motor is getting fed a little power. Not enough to turn the wheel.

When I spin the front wheel by hand it rotates freely in the driving direction.

Rotating it backwards gives different results depending on whether the power cable is connected to the front wheel or not.

With the cable connected and the battery switched off, there is a heavy, “notchy” resistance.

With the cable disconnected the backward motion is smooth and even and the resistance and sound is more like that of an old fashioned bottle dynamo.

I got the kit installed in late January and have done 900km since then. Quite proud of myself. My annual bike mileage used to be less than 100km!

I obviously will have to get some new parts from Sunlova/8Funbike.com . Based on the above description do you think that a new control box and power cable would suffice? My kit is of course the old style kit with the thick pedelec sensor. I don’t think the parts are interchangeable with their new kit!
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
I'm sure your motor is OK, so don't worry about that. The notchiness when you turn it backwards is normal. Have you pulled or cut the damaged cable apart so that it's no longer shorting? That would be the first thing to do, and if one or more of the three wires is broken, then twist in a bit of wire from a piece of normal 13 amp mains wire as a temporary measure for testing, being careful not to let any of the three wires touch each other, and making sure that the right colours are connected (blue to blue etc.). Then you should be able to test if it works. After that, it's a new controller from Sunlova. If it turns out that it's only the cable, or If you can't get the power cable, you can just cut the damaged one apart cleanly, separate the wires a bit, solder the ends together and then insulate them with tape or heat-shrink sleeving and it should be OK. The original cable is normally miles too long, so there should be enough left. You might want to move the join closer to motor connector so that the repaired bit isn't twisted by the steering any more.
 

Hansen

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 13, 2011
8
0
Denmark
Thanks for the encouraging words about my motor. A new cable is on it’s way in the mail. I’m no good with a soldering iron and besides, on my bike with 700C wheels there is no extra length on the power cable to spare.

Fingers crossed that the new cable will be enough
 

Trevor Holloway

Pedelecer
May 4, 2010
136
0
Had exactly the same but one of my motor wires was not quite through, I soldered in a bridging piece of wire and taped to seal it.
However I did not spot the wearing away until after the battery and controller were returned to Sunlova.
The battery was replaced (in the same case) and I guess the BMS checked, turned out the controller needed changing aswell.
All done under warranty at 5 months old.