Harry's review
I haven’t had a chance to post on the forum for some time as we have been working very hard on the 2009 Cytronex system. However I think it is important to answer some of the technical questions raised here.
We launched Cytronex last year with just 100 bikes produced for test marketing. The reason for this was two fold: 1. To see how the system would be received in the market, 2. To test reliability of the design and components, and to ascertain what modifications would be necessary before producing on a larger scale.
I am very glad to say that we are now totally convinced of the concept’s appeal and I apologise to all those who have been waiting for some time for our 2009 system to be released. However I am sure you will find it has been worth the wait.
The 2008 Cytronex certainly had the aesthetics I wanted to achieve but each bike was very labour intensive and impossible for a layman to build themselves without a week’s training! The task I set us was to achieve the same level of aesthetics in an easy fit kit that could power a wide variety of bikes. Along the way we have addressed many of the issues raised by Harry here.
So in answer to some of Harry’s points:
1.Battery rattling – your battery should not rattle and after I saw the very extreme example in Ian’s case I meant to do a general email in case there are who are putting up with this. The problem is caused if the battery is pulled out inadvertently at sufficient angle to bend the cage. Ian was obviously a lot more tolerant than me and put up with the noise but in fact it can be very easily solved. Just carefully but firmly grip the extended cradle part of the cage and push it back in towards the down tube until it just starts to bend back a little. Then try the battery again and repeat until tight. Your battery should not rattle at all! It is in fact the rattling the causes the wear marks on the casing. There is very little wear on well used bikes that have tight fitting bottle cages. We are now using a stronger cage but this is only because Trek discontinued the previous one and we had to find another supplier. The old type is on my existing bike which is approaching 3,000 miles without a problem.
2.The brake switches have worked well but we are currently testing a new type which should be more or less bomb proof as well as easy to fit. Harry has mentioned an issue with the existing switches that we have found on two other bikes which have been used throughout the winter. The extreme amount of salt and grit on the roads this winter can make V brakes seize up. Once this happens there is no spring in the brake levers and the controller thinks that the brakes are permanently on. A bit of cleaning, oiling the pivot points and then moving them backwards and forwards will soon free them up again.
3.The scuffing on the fork can be resolved with a cable tie to hold the cable in position at the top of the fork.
4.If your paintwork is looking a bit jaded with all the salt on the roads a clean and wax polish may bring back the shine. Unfortunately salt attacks just about everything and I have seen the evidence on several other brands of bike recently. My own bike has faired rather better but then I use mainly country roads to work and they are rarely salted.
5.Interesting what you say about the buttons being the other way round Harry. We put it on the right because it is the most frequently used button, but I take your point. The 2009 system gets round this because we have some very nice new components which put the buttons right by your thumbs instead of in the bar ends. Therefore you don’t have to move your hand to press the boost button.
6.Harry’s point about modification is also a good one. You can’t change much on the bars with the 2008 Cytronex because wires run though to the bar ends and the brake sensors are installed in the brake lever casing. This is changing in the 2009 Cytronex, with the buttons by your thumbs and the brake sensor in a different position it will be straight forward to replace any components on the handlebar, or the handlebar itself. If you have a look at the kit when it comes out Harry I am sure we could modify yours in the same way if you wish.
7. Just one further tip - every 1,000 miles or so I recommend a deep discharge to optimise the battery capacity and power. To do this use your bike until the power expires then place the front wheel on a stand so that the wheel is free to spin. Then set it on low speed and press the boost button and leave it running until it stops. Don't do this immediately after recharge or it will take all day to stop. Then leave it half an hour before switching on again, once again leaving it until the motor cuts out. Obviously don't leave it running like this if there are children or animals arround. Finally leave the battery an hour or so before fully recharging. This should boost the battery capacity and power.
Regards,
Mark
