Cytronex Quick CX-3

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
Following about 3 years of researching and testing a vast variety of e-bikes (well, about four), I've finally taken the plunge and got myself a Cytronex Cannondale Quick CX-3.

As this forum has been so useful in making my decision, I felt somewhat obliged to provide some detailed feedback on this bike for the benefit of others.

Firstly, this wasn't a standard bike in the Cytronex range, but Mark Searles agreed a price for me as the bike is a Cannondale and their current kit would fit it. Mark is now using the new black Tongxin motors with disc mounts, and the CX-3 has disc brakes front and back. It also has front suspension, useful as I have a trail section on my way to work.

Here is the new sexy bike:
Copy of bike.jpg

I'll start from the beginning a little. My journey to work is 12 miles round trip, 50% road, 40% paved cycle path and 10% semi-paved cycle path. I have tried many times but failed to take up cycling 5 days a week, finding it challenging to get beyond day 3. I have managed 4 days a week with a day by car. Also I avoided cycling on windy days, as it required twice as much effort and again make to too tired to continue the next day.

Enjoying the cycling and wishing to do it 5 days a week, I decided that an e-bike would be ideal.

I tried a number of them, including Wisper, E-motion, Ezee Torq and Cytronex. Many bikes I found too slow to steer in, and sluggish due to weight. The Panasonic E-motion was good, but I just didn't like the way your cadence worked against you i.e. you get to a hill, knock down a few cogs but then the motor reduces it's output - you cannot on the e-motion combine peak rider power output and peak motor output (and I didn't want to get into making illegal motor sprocket mods).

I tested a Cytronex (a Quick 8 a year ago) and was very impressed with the natural feel and handling, and the way the motor assists you in a sensible way i.e. not cadence related. Also stealthy as it doesn't sound like a milkfloat and the battery disguise is very clever.

So I was sold on the Cytronex concept, but was not in a position to buy a year ago. I since looked into various options to help decide on my ideal 'donor bike'. I decided that I would have front suspension, as some of my route is a bit bumpy, and being motorised the efficiency loss when pedalling hard was less of a concern. Also a useful article by Flecc suggests that front hub motor bikes may benefit from suspension due to the otherwise high unsprung weight.

Disc brakes were a preference but not a requirement, basically for the longer pad life and desire to not wear down nice rims.

Mark only stocks certain Cannondale bikes, but I examined the other Cannondale bikes in the range, to see what was available. I quickly came across the CX-3 which fits the bill and, to me at least, was one of the nicest looking bikes I had ever seen.

I emailed to discuss the possiblity, and then phoned Mark Searles to get a price on a Cytronex CX3 (£1595), which I then ordered, and added a rack (Blackburn EX+) and mudguards. I was told 4-6 weeks, but was contacted to say the bike was ready after 2 1/2 wks, which was super.

Handover was good, given a thorough briefing on how to use the bike, charge the battery, remove the wheel, diagnose faults, told not ride on rough terrain under power, and so on.

I asked about battery lifetime, Mark said that while the theoretical life was 250 charges according to manufactuer, in practice doing a conditioning cycle on the battery keeps it running well. He has sold a lot of these bikes since 2008, and nobody has purchased more than one battery nor come back to buy another one.

I have now ridden the bike for two weeks, and can report on my findings so far.

In order to get the battery fully operational, it is recommended to do a conditioning cycle. This involves running the bike until assistance is exhausted, then leaving the battery trickle charging for a few more hours once the basic 2 hour fast charge is complete. This is repeated 3 times.

My range, as measured by the supplied computer, was:
<from battery in supplied state> : 2 miles.
<condition charge 1>
12.5 miles
<condition charge 2>
16.5 miles
< condition charge 3>
17.5 miles

This 17.5 miles is therefore the maximum range from a fully conditioned battery. That is on a flat route, with power on about 75% of the time, riding at an average speed of 12 mph, and a cruising speed of 15 mph with the power on with what I would consider a 'normal' amount of additional rider effort. I noted that after about 15 miles, the battery started to get noticibly weaker.

This is sufficient range for my needs (12 mile round trip).

On power usage, the power control system has been improved and simplified since my test ride. No longer is there a 'hi/lo' speed button. There is also a pedal sensor, which applies the power above a pedalling rate of about 1 revolution every 2 seconds when the power is on.

The amount of motor pull is ideal. It can quite quickly get you up to speed, allow you to climb hills at 15 mph. I do like the way to can be riding at peak output at high cadence on a hill, and turn the motor on and woosh! Great fun.

The way the power is delivered is very natural and useful. Cadence is your friend with this system. At 15mph, the 'cruise control' algorithm adjusts the motor power continually to hold at 15 mph. This means if you feel the need, you can drop a cog, and get in your power band, and provide the power yourself, or you can stay in a higher gear and pedal slower providing less assistance, and the motor will provide more. Also since the requirement is the crack should be rotating to get power, you can be really lazy and pick a low gear, and spin the pedals on the freewheel providing no effort at all.

I have found, with a strong battery, the bike will do 13-14 mph on the flat, even with no rider torque. It will do 10-12 mph up a moderate incline with no rider effort, or 15 mph with moderate rider effort.

The left brake lever acts as a power cutoff. It took a few days to get into the habit of feathering the left brake when I was coasting to a stop and wanted to spin the pedals to drop gears as I was stopping.

I was recommended to feather the left brake when pulling away, and it is good advise. The surge of thrust can catch you by surprise when doing low speed manoeuvres, as the power kicks in when your pedalling reaches the threshold crank speed. It's almost diesel turbocharged like, get to a certain rpm and woosh!

I can confirm the power button and light button are easy to operate even with thick gloves on. The lights are powered off the main battery and are very bright indeed. I blinded a pedestrain once already this week, because I hadn't aligned the light correctly.

Handling wise, the bike handles well, even when the rack is fully loaded, a very nice ride. Feels marginally heavier than a normal bike, but half of the extra weight comes from the stuff I am carting around in the panniers!

I can confirm by locking out my suspension, that it does help. It is indeed more harsh over bumps compared to a normal wheel due to the motor - but not massively so.

Now I am not allowed under warranty to use the motor on unpaved surfaces. Mark has said that he himself has given the motors plenty of abuse without fault, and he inspects the motors and adjusts them before handover, he said it is just they are not meant for repeated and prolonged bumpy ground.

This has made me a little bit paranoid, I am now always looking ahead for bumpy bits of road and cutting the power before I get there!

My bike was not supplied with a bell. I am convinced that these bikes are just not supplied with bells at all. I asked Mark about this, and he sent me a bell in the post. The strap on this bell had been forcibly cut, and was snapped and not usable. I can only assume the Cytronex team removes the bells with no intent to refit them. I found a suitable space on the crowded handlebars for the bell from my old bike, but not easy to operate.

The Tektro disc brakes brakes are powerful stoppers, but very squeally. Maybe they will bed in. A useful feature to alert pedestrians, saves me hunting for the bell. I suggest a 6V e-horn.

A bit of a saga over finding a suitable bag for the rack, not really e-bike related. Firstly I tried two from Halfords, these did not fit this rack due to design, and due to the fact that Cytronex had sawn off a part of the rack without telling me, in order to make it fit the bike. The bit removed would have been required to fit these bags.

I bought a Blackburn EX bag, assuming it would be a perfect fit. Again, didn't attach as standard due to missing bit sawn off the rack, so bungee corded it. Also, found length of bag meant my heels catch it on pedalling.

Eventually, bought a Raleigh Triple Pannier for £19.99, worked a treat. Recommended.

What else can I mention, well I found that the flex on the rear light cable had been cut open during cable assembly by one of the cable ties. I used some insulation tape and replaced the cable tie. Also the cable to the rear LED light was not secured correctly and came out, I put it in securely.

These are minor things, overall I am very impressed with this bike and with the Cytronex product. I aim to provide another review as time goes on, on the reliability of the bike and so on.

I look forward to having the experience of blasting past some unsuspecting pro racing cyclists up a hill..now to find some hills...this is Oxfordshire, we have no proper hills...
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
So, one more week has gone by. I had intended this week to be my first full 5 day week of cycling - however within 5 minutes of setting off, I got a pinch flat on the rear after going up a kerb (not very fast like either).

I had put in tyre liners to the standard Conti Double Fighter II's, but it had nicked the inner tube, ironically when the tyre got pinched. I upgraded the rear to marathon plus, keeping the conti for the front. Hoping okay as front suspension. Mark does offer this upgrade as part of the sale. Anyway, live and learn.
Marathon plus tyre 700x38c good to 85 psi rather than 70 psi for the stock tyres. Wanted to have the higher pressure on the back tyre. Found my car pump couldn't get there, so had to buy a proper bike pump.

Managed to drop battery yesterday. Had it in a carrier bag with some other stuff, it dropped out of the bottom. Very annoyed with myself, as once pretty battery is now dented. Battery casing is quite soft metal, feel from 2 ft on to carpet but got a dent. Works fine still thankfully. Now carry in a proper bag.

Other than that, e-bike itself it doing the job. Very enjoyable. Shaved 20% off my journey time if I put effort in. I can put very little effort in and average 11 mph, medium effort 12 mph, and if I really go for it I can average 13 mph (in that case I am cruising about 16-17 mph with mostly my own effort).

So far so good. Just make sure you upgrade the tyres and don't drop the battery!

I look forward to managing a full week of commuting next week, punctures nonwithstanding.

11 mph
13 mph
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
It is now week 4 and I was completed my first full 5 day commute, and no puctures on the new tyres (yay). I've also managed to lose 5 kg in weight in that time, which I am very pleased about. So certainly with this bike, it is possible to get more exercise even though it is an e-bike, at least comparing 2 days a week on regular bike on nice days vs 5 days a week on the e-bike.

Decided to change my route and stick to roads. I was finding the bike a bit harsh on the trail compared to my old mountain bike. Probably due to narrower tyres, higher tyre pressures and twice the unsprung weight.

This does mean that I can leave the power on all the time now, and so I can now easily average 14 mph. The lights are very bright though so I feel safe enough on the roads in the dark.
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
Well I've successfully done 3 or so full 5 day weeks now. Had to replace both tyres with Marathon Plus's now as original stock tyres have some compound that seems to magically attract thorns. Decided to upgrade brake pads to organic pads, still a bit noisy but more normal level rather than being so loud that people look at you funny. Pads required are Tektro 'Iox', and not Novela even though it is a Novela caliper. Must be a design change.

Had to drop pressure in tyres as was getting lower back pain when running at 75 PSI on 38mm wide tyres and an upright seating position. Dropped it to 55-60PSI (min is 50 according to tyre) and much improved. Still, might get a sprung saddle or something.

Found paint on suspension fork had been rubbed off by front brake cable. Used some tape to change the position of the cable, which had been routed in a silly location (by Cannondale, not Cytronex). Contacted Cannondale, no reply to my emails. Contacted Cytronex, they contacted Cannondale and said there was no touch up paint and suggested Halfords. No apology or anything, nothing to suggest that having to paint your own bike after a month was unacceptable. Maybe this is normal.

More annoyingly, was cycling home last night and had failure of all lights. Had to call the emergency breakdown helpline (my wife). Turns out the 6V electrical cable routing under the front fork had been touching a bracket and moving with the suspension motion. It had eaten clean through the insulation and shorted the battery.

It seems Cytronex are not all that experienced at cable routing suspension bikes. It will be going back to be sorted out. Not happy!
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
An update - bike has been in for repairs this week.

My first impression on email contact was that I was not all that enamoured with the customer service from Mark. Seems whenever I emailed Cytronex with an issue, I didn't end up with the nice feeling you get when you have been emphasised with, apologised to and looked after etc. I think 'customer care' it the word and it is something they could work on in my opinion as the product itself is a good one, and they certainly do care about their customers but Mark's attitude comes across to me as a bit too defensive for my liking. (Nothing personal Mark, just that's how it made me feel - you have a great product so I am trying to provide some honest feedback).

For example, after an exchange of several emails, listing the minor issues that have occured, to give him the full picture that the bike had not been totally problem free so far, I was told that my expectations were too high and that cable wear on suspension forks is common. Regarding the split cable and if it will be fixed under warranty was told that he can't comment until he has seen it. All of which might be true to some extent but found it a bit annoying.

Anyway on a positive note, due to me having a busy day, Mark agreed to have the workshop opened a half hour early so that I could drop the bike in, which I appreciated. Mark was not in, but I met Ben the new mechanic who was very approachable and helpful.

So, having dropped the bike off and Mark came back to me with a report after the weekend. On the front cable splitting, he said that he was not really sure how it happened. He also said that there was 'nothing wrong with the wiring method we have used'. This in particular I find rather odd, as the evidence would suggest otherwise! It may have been assembled in the usual way, but the fact that the wire was worn through due to suspension motion, suggests that the usual solution was not suitable for this particular bike (which was the first one they had done of that model).

I enquired about whether Mark would be willing to refund the £30 in petrol costs I incurred by doing the two round trips, or replace the battery top cover to sort out the dent I put in the battery (he previously quoted £35 for a new top cover for the battery). I was told no they wouldn't. So I was out of pocket due to a design fault on the bike, which doesn't seem right to me. I'm just glad I didn't live somewhere far away like Scotland or Mainland Europe. Anyway after some discussions, we converged on Cytronex putting half the cost toward a new battery housing to sort out the dent I put in it. Which was not what I wanted but better than nothing, and the bike was there anyway so I thought might as well.

Anyway, they repaired the cable and looked at a few other things on my list and I picked up the bike yesterday. Mark wasn't there again (avoiding me I suspect by this point), but Ben showed me the work he had done. He had fitted some new double ended cable clips (sort of figure-8 shaped) that he used to good effect in routing the front light cable (it now flexes in a more 'S' like shape) and also in keeping the front brake cable away from the fork. Clear tape had been fitted to the rub points on the frame, and also on the battery which was handy. The battery had been re-cased. All in all a very tidy job and I have been impressed with the attention to detail and helpfulness.

So it feels good to have her back and all sorted, and I will keep an eye on that cable in the coming months but hopefully we're all sorted now. <finds some wood to touch>
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
Hurray, January 2012 has been the first zero-problem cycling month! I've done 650 miles on the bike since purchase. Still loving this bike, cycled to work in some atrocious conditions lately as I'm sure you all have.

Everything on the 'e side' of the e-bike seems to be performing perfectly now.

Minor issue when it was -5 degrees C, with gear selector and rear brake cables freezing...a bit of a problem cycling with the brake stuck on. Upped my lubrication regime to GT85'ing the cable entry points every week rather than monthly, and it seems to have done the trick. No problems with motor or anything on the electric side with daily winter use, which is very reassuring.

I must admit, the winter storms were interesting. Cytronex claims to 'cruise through headwinds'...which in most conditions it does quite well, but not the 30-40 mph gusts we had a month ago...felt like cycling through treacle and speed dropped to 4-5mph. Need an optional jet engine attachment for rear rack.

Further update to come at 1000 miles anniversary.
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
Okay, the odo just went past 1000 miles this morning! I can confirm the last 500 miles have been mostly uneventful in a good way. Just some basic chain maintenance required, the bike has done very well. No punctures since upgrading the stock tyres. No problems with electric cabling since rerouted by the Cytronex team. When my Marathon+ tyres wear out, I might try standard kevlar belted Marathons, as the M+ is a bit like riding on concrete wheels even at 50psi.

Only issue was the unintended relocation of a chainring pedal sensor magnet after a chain slip. There are four of them on the inner chainring, which tend to get picked up by the chain if it comes off, and deposited at random location on the bike. Found it and reinserted with correct polarity. Mark said this could happen when I took delivery. I'd suggest he should just superglue the magnets in place.

Had an issue with freezing cables when it was -7oC. This particular bike has a rear brake cable routing design that collects water in a nice u-bend. Removed cables from housing, dried and lubricated. Other than these basic things, no problems or faults etc.

Range is unchanged, battery is still strong. For my 13.5 mph average speed over 13 mile journey, I get back home with a few miles to spare, but climbing ability drops after 11 miles. Have taken to using a timer to charge the battery at 5am so it is warm and provides a little extra torque.

If I was choosing another bike I would aim for 50% more range and 50% more peak torque, just because more torque is fun! 95% of the time the bike as it stands is perfect for my needs and I use it probably 9 working days out of every 10.

Personally the best feature is the power delivery method which complements the rider rather than hindering (none of this cadence-limiting stuff). Hill climbing is quite good if you can keep the motor in the optimum band (I think 7-13 mph). The main advantage is you can spin away at high cadence and also couple that with full motor output. Equally you can choose to pedal hard and fast, gentle and fast, gentle and slow, whatever you feel like at the time and the speed controller adjusts to motor power to suit to maintain 15 mph (you can even 'pretend to pedal' on the freewheel and pootle on the motor alone). Cytronex is a very flexible system and I find it suits me.

Hopefully it is reliable in the long term. I have read people getting typical motor lifetimes of 3000 to 6000 miles before failure. I'll see how long this one lasts. I make a point of using the left brake lever to cut power whenever I encounter unavoidable large bumps (though am not always successful), maybe this will help.
 
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Reactions: oldtom

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
My reliable steed has Just hit 2000 miles, no issues to report, all quite boring really.

The motor has become slightly more noisy and draggy on the freewheel, but still better than all the other hub motors, mind you. I can't so easily ride it unpowered now though. I do sometimes wonder how it compares to a chain-drive in that regard.

I've changed tyres to ones with more supple sidewalls and it has helped the harshness issue.
I have changed the handlebar, the grips and added bar ends.

Electric range is now approx 9-11 miles in windy conditions and 12-14 miles in normal conditions.
I have bought a second charger, and now charge at work as well for the return journey so I don't run out.

This has other advantages, as you go much faster on full charge and the top speed and torque gradually reduce as the battery discharges i.e. the top speed is not electronically controlled.
So if you are talking about the range that the bike feels lively and powerful, then it is about 8 miles.

Interestingly on a hot battery the bike will do 16.5 mph on the flat with no additional torque through the pedals, which can lead one to ride in a very lasy manner.

If I were building my own bike for this system, I would specify hub gears. This is because with the derailleiurs you need to pedal as you downshift when coming to a stop. This in turn causes the power to turn on, hence your left brake with cutout is used like a clutch on a motorbike. Hence hub gears would be natural for this system, so you can coast under braking.

I enjoy the upright position of the bike but would, if I was buying again, go for a 'normal' geometry and wheelbase and achieve the same upright position via stem swap and not making the bike shorter. The shortness of the bike, short chainstays and upright seat tube and head tube angles causes issues with road buzz/harshness. Also my heels sometimes catch the pannier bags.
 

blanche_aline

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 30, 2012
21
0
Aeugstertal/ Switzerland
nice to read that you had another uneventfull 1000miles....

I've become a bit paranoid about my bike (a CAAD10) as I faced right from the beginning some serious problems caused by water ingression into the controller - the problem was solved quickly and very attentive through Cytronex staff but the poor little tongxin got maltreated nevertheless and since then I'm oversensitive waiting for the slightest irregularity.... Despite that I had 400 uneventfull miles since the bike came back so I hope I'll get used to it working without problems soon :)
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
Yes I hear the motors don't like being overtorqued, and the later controllers apply slightly less current...I haven't had any issues with water ingress into anything, fingers crossed.

2600 miles, still plodding on. Also very appreciative of the bright lights at this time of year.

I have changed my handlebars (again) and used an Acor double bracket stem extender plus shim, to make the stem longer and give an angular adjustment - now much more comfortable hand position and not 'on top of' the handlebars. stem.jpg
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
Ice? As in igloos, as in eskimos, as in ICE?

My uneventul maintenance free period came to an abrupt end. Came off on black ice this morning - most unexpected as it was quite a mild morning and had been ice free until I hit it. Anyway the impact has broken something in the motor, it doesn't freewheel anymore and it whines when rotating (under power or not). Also the brake lever snapped in half, and the gear selector lever does no longer function.

A motor repair is in order. :(

Cycle safety.
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
Further to my previous message, which has yet to appear (moderators?), so after my accident on ice the impact took out the motor freewheel and drive. Took it to Cytronex today, who fitted new freewheel and roller drive in a couple of hours. Popped into down, did some shopping, and picked the bike up at luchtime. Many thanks to Ben@Cytronex, and very convenient not to have to leave the bike in, or wait for replacements to be sent.

I was hoping to get 5000-10,000 miles out of my drive/freewheel before overhaul, but clearly they do not take kindly to being crashed at 15mph so I only got 2500 miles/1 year.

I should say though that while the motors are more delicate than some, it is the price you pay for quiet precision engineered motor operation. But this must surely be a unique capability, to just pop down the road, and get it overhauled in a few hours for £120, and they did a great job.

Any other manufacturer you would be waiting for parts and sending stuff off and so on. Assuming I don't crash again, then hopefully I get more life out of it that If I have to do this every 3-4 years, then that is still loads cheaper than servicing the car.

I'm told that part of the problem was impact but also combined with corrosion due to riding through the lake that was the road last week. So, also would not recommend riding through floods up to the motor!
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
Have fitted 37c Conti Top Contact Winters. OMG - soo nice and comfortable. Actually they are smaller than the 35c Vittorias, but much more plushy ride. Used then on snow today, great bite. Yet to try ice. Given how narrow these tyres are, I would probably try a 42c size which might still fit and be yet more comfortable.

The 2WD on snow with winter tyres works rather well actually. The power feeds in gradually enough that it doesn't lose grip. Great fun.

Only other thing to report is through this year, freewheeling ability of motor wheel has dropped a lot. Particularly sluggish when cold - now in the second winter and I rotate the wheel by hand and it spins maybe 3 revolutions before stopping. Was hoping new freewheel clutch would help but it did not.

I'm informed by the guys at Cytronex that the motor bearings do degrade with time, but that they are sealed bearings and good quality. Apparently. Falling off and puddles aside it was degrading gradually over the first year of use as well.

Fortunately the motor is relatively cheap to service or replace, but I am just surprised that the freewheeling ability would degrade like this. My standard back wheel still spins fine, and has obviously been used under the same conditions.

Unfortunately the drag is such that the bike no longer rides like an unmotorised bike at high speed, which was the main selling point. I cannot easily ride it like a normal bike if the battery runs out, which is why I got a second charger. The max range at full assistance is down from 10 miles to 6 miles which I put down to that rotational drag. Seems like an annual post-winter bearing replacement is needed on this motor to keep it in good working order. I'm told this is around £60. I might do this next year.
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
3500 miles - update.

Motor drag has been reduced a bit following adjustment of disc brakes :rolleyes:.

Motor initially made concerning clicky noises after the repair job, but seems to have 'run in' now.
So would say everything is running well, except that pedal bearings are shot so the bike is in for work at my lbs!

After 500 battery charges, my range is 6 miles of strong performance and 2 weak miles on a normal day, and 4 miles of strong performance and 1 weak mile on a windy day. My journey is 6.5 miles so even charging at both ends with my second charger, it doesn't quite last the whole journey if it is windy.:(

Leaving it trickle charging for extra 4 hours helps add a mile to these figures and makes it borderline on a windy day. 20 Wh/mile is a good average figure for range across various ebikes, and 36Vx 4.5Ah (originally) = 162 Wh = 8.1 miles theoretical range. So I am still in line with expected performance.

Hopefully Mark brings out Lithium batteries at some point and doubles the range.

Summary so far
Pros:
- Fun, lightweight, sporty handling, upright riding bike
- Very pretty, sporty and discreet.
- Quiet! So lovely and silent.
- Pick a bike you like. Fits to most bikes (was told they had successfully converted some non-Cannondale's like Specialized)
- Battery powered lights are very nice.
- Reliable (relatively) i.e. it won't break if not abused or involved in an accident.
- Easy maintenance; Cytronex change out motor components while-u-wait (or go shopping or looking at castles)
- Cheap to maintain; battery=£250, motor=£150. Seems I can build a bike from Cytronex spare parts at half what I paid for it.
- Quick to charge, 2 hours.
- On/off nature of power delivery is simple and fun. Power you can feel working. Feeds in gradually and at no point have I had problems in traffic or loss of traction.
- Pretty good hill climbing ability when fully charged, up moderate hills (i.e. ones you can climb unpowered at 9 mph you can climb at 12 mph).

Cons:
- Range; 5-8 mile realistically, unless I put in more effort. Okay for me except when windy. Not suitable for recreational day trips.
- Robustness; I came off sideways at 15mph and the motor broke. Also not suited to rough terrain, as indeed stated in the warranty. I ride on-road only.
- Speed control; there is none. It just pulls to 15 mph. Okay 99.9% of the time but less desirable on ice/snow. Not suited to rough terrain also for that reason. The ability to ask for a lower top speed but have the same torque would be useful.
- Poor hill climbing on steep hills (i.e. hills you need the granny gear for < 5mph, you will get very little assistance from the motor. Motor torque is best between 7 and 13 mph).
- At £1600 it is nudging into Kalkhoff territory and seems expensive for what it is. £1200 including lights, rack, etc would be more reasonable.

So, an ideal bike for short commutes less than 8 miles fully on road.
Not suitable for recreational riding as it has neither the range for a day trip, nor the torque control or motor robustness necessary for seeing interesting off-road places. Nor can you ride in a pack, since there is not speed control either.

This isn't a complaint or a critisism, just a fact. Lone city commuting was always the target market for the bikes, which it excels at. Unfortunately it doesn't do anything else. But for me I am happy with it.

I tried a Bosch assisted bike recently, and was expecting, well, more from 40nm. Seemed a bit lack-lustre. It didn't pull hard from a standstill like the old panasonic; mind you it didn't suffer the cadence cutoff like the panasonic though which was good. Perhaps it was the noise to torque ratio that was off-putting, I'm not sure. It was noisy though. I found it didn't have the umph or climbing speed of my cytronex, only excelled at low speeds grinding hills. Everyday riding and moderate inclines the cytronex pulled harder and demanded less effort.
I hope to compare with a Kalkhoff Aggatu Impulse at some point.
 

greyhound_dog_1

Pedelecer
Oct 22, 2009
38
-1
After 5000 miles the battery pack finally became decidedly dead in early 2015. Due to the poor fit of the original bike I bought a new bike and tried regular cycling for a year but really missed the assistance. I have since bought a new Lithium battery (not from Cytronex - got fed up of waiting) and transplanted the Cytronex motor and controller to the new bike successfully. I'll start a thread on that shortly.