Hi all i wonder if anyone has the cycle analyst meter fitted to their e-bike i am looking at a more accurate way to measure how much power i have left in the battery as i ride over 30 miles a day the led meters are not accurate. How easy is the stand alone model to fit? (please bear in mind what i know about electronics you can fit on a postage stamp ! )any advise/info would be appreciated.
Cycle analyst anyone?
- Thread starter ade
- Start date
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Cyclezee
Guest
Hi Ade,
As a user and supplier of Cycle Analyst for eZee bikes, I can recommend it as an excellent piece of kit.
Full information and installation guide can be found here The Cycle Analyst Homepage - Ebike Amp-Hour and Watt Meter .
Please note that currently, I only stock the version which conncets directly to eZee controllers.
As a user and supplier of Cycle Analyst for eZee bikes, I can recommend it as an excellent piece of kit.
Full information and installation guide can be found here The Cycle Analyst Homepage - Ebike Amp-Hour and Watt Meter .
Please note that currently, I only stock the version which conncets directly to eZee controllers.
Hi
We also only sell the model that plugs directly into our controller
But Onbike sell the stand alone model
Cycle Analyst
Frank
We also only sell the model that plugs directly into our controller
But Onbike sell the stand alone model
Cycle Analyst
Frank
There a good bit of kit but they are pricey, espcially if your just after casual monitoring.
You really need to use all the features to make it a worthwhile purchase.
Otherwise something like a Turnigy Watts Up Meter or other brand would be a better option.
You really need to use all the features to make it a worthwhile purchase.
Otherwise something like a Turnigy Watts Up Meter or other brand would be a better option.
I have both types and they are really easy to fit - no electrical knowledge required - just plug in the right sockets. The ones that connect directly to the controllers (I have an ezee one) are a simple plug it in and run the wire along your frame to your handlebar. You will also need to run the speed sensor wire to your wheel and magnet.
The generic one does require you to solder connectors to the resistor unit but you could use crimp or screw type connectors. The rest is just the same - connect and run the wires to the bars and wheel.
Are they worth it? Well, the cost is a bit high but to me, yes. Mainly because I get a full and accurate readout of all the parameters I need - speed, distance Ahr used etc but also I can limit current or the low voltage cut-out or even the speed - not likely!
As a pure Ahr meter then probably a bit extravagant but I was using a Wattsup meter and it always under-read the peak currents as I think the CA samples at a higher rate so gives a more accurate reading. For Ahr readings it's fine. The other great thing about the CA is that you can see the readings on your handlebars without having to run 4 thick cables carrying many amps up to your bars.
And the new ones have a massive screen so you won't need your glasses but I prefer the older smaller version as it is more discreet.
There are things on the CA that you never thought you needed but are great to review after a ride. I love it.
The generic one does require you to solder connectors to the resistor unit but you could use crimp or screw type connectors. The rest is just the same - connect and run the wires to the bars and wheel.
Are they worth it? Well, the cost is a bit high but to me, yes. Mainly because I get a full and accurate readout of all the parameters I need - speed, distance Ahr used etc but also I can limit current or the low voltage cut-out or even the speed - not likely!
As a pure Ahr meter then probably a bit extravagant but I was using a Wattsup meter and it always under-read the peak currents as I think the CA samples at a higher rate so gives a more accurate reading. For Ahr readings it's fine. The other great thing about the CA is that you can see the readings on your handlebars without having to run 4 thick cables carrying many amps up to your bars.
And the new ones have a massive screen so you won't need your glasses but I prefer the older smaller version as it is more discreet.
There are things on the CA that you never thought you needed but are great to review after a ride. I love it.
C
Cyclezee
Guest
Hi Peter,
Having been used to a small CA on my trike, I did think large screen CA was very big, but now I much prefer it to the small one, so clear and easy to read.
Having been used to a small CA on my trike, I did think large screen CA was very big, but now I much prefer it to the small one, so clear and easy to read.
Cheapo battery meter lashup
The basic problem is that the typical 3 LED handle bar indicator gives a much too coarse indication. By measuring the exact voltage of the battery we have much more precise information. Of course to make use of the voltage readings one has to determine what voltages correspond to the fully charge state and the fully discharged state. Here is the graph I made during one charge.
This battery was not completely discharged before I started this charge up: there was probably about 15% of charge left in the battery when I put it on charge.
Here you see the meter lashed to my wooden instrument bench which I have installed on my handle bars. The other instruments (right to left) are Garmin GPS and Digital Thermometer. The bundle of white wire leads down to the battery terminals.
This lash up is just an experiment to demonstrate it and get experience. The mounting arrangements will need tidying up, but I have already been 20 miles incuding rough ground as I watch the battery be run down. You can see I am at 25.2V at present. there is only 1 LED out of 5 showing on the battery, and just 1 out of 3 on the handle bar indicator unit. I am expecting the battery cut out will occur with just a bit more voltage drop, so I am planning an early morning ride tomorrow to measure that voltage.
The CA sounds nice, but I have been exploring a really cheap way of measuring the amount left in the battery by measuring its voltage with a very cheap digital multimeter from Maplin (Thanks again to NRG's post for the heads up on this). The UT30B is on sale at £7.99 (reduced from £14) at Maplin until 9 August.
The basic problem is that the typical 3 LED handle bar indicator gives a much too coarse indication. By measuring the exact voltage of the battery we have much more precise information. Of course to make use of the voltage readings one has to determine what voltages correspond to the fully charge state and the fully discharged state. Here is the graph I made during one charge.
This battery was not completely discharged before I started this charge up: there was probably about 15% of charge left in the battery when I put it on charge.
Here you see the meter lashed to my wooden instrument bench which I have installed on my handle bars. The other instruments (right to left) are Garmin GPS and Digital Thermometer. The bundle of white wire leads down to the battery terminals.
This lash up is just an experiment to demonstrate it and get experience. The mounting arrangements will need tidying up, but I have already been 20 miles incuding rough ground as I watch the battery be run down. You can see I am at 25.2V at present. there is only 1 LED out of 5 showing on the battery, and just 1 out of 3 on the handle bar indicator unit. I am expecting the battery cut out will occur with just a bit more voltage drop, so I am planning an early morning ride tomorrow to measure that voltage.
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Cyclezee
Guest
An impressive and ingenious creation Mike, I would expect no less and it no doubt gives the information you require, but for the non physicists among us, a Cycle Analyst could well work out cheaper in terms of man or woman hours to construct.
Of course I realise it is in the early development stage, but you have not added the cost of the plywood and parcel tape
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