Cube Reaction Hybrid Pro/Bosch CX 500wh

[StewC]

Can you tinker with the gearing at the other end?

Top Gear on the rear only has 11 teeth, I cant find a rear sprocket with any less teeth than that.
The Bosch motor has a gearbox inside as one pedal crack rotation, turns the sprocket about 1.5 times. Does anyone know if this can be adjusted or changed inside the motor unit?

 

[RobF]

The Bosch motor is known to be difficult to tinker with, so in the absence of a smaller cassette, I think you may be stuck.

Your bike has 27.5" wheels, so a 29er on the back would raise the gearing.

But from the internet pics, there's not sufficient clearance for a bigger wheel, and in any case it's not a very elegant mod.

Front rings are cheap, so I suppose you could try a bigger one, but I agree it looks like the chain would then foul the casing.

 

[soundwave]

you can get a cassette with 10t or 9t at the rear but will have to change to 11spd.

spanner is here.
http://speedup.altervista.org/tool-for-spider-nut.html

 

[StewC]

Thanks for pointing me to Speedup website, they seem to do a kit that puts a spacer between 15t front sprocket allowing at 18t sprocket to run in tandem. You need to move the chain manually, but it would seem the spacer would take the chain away from the protrusion on the motor housing. It seems they make just what I am looking for, although they are currently out of stock of the 18T sprocket.
SpeedUp also have various speed limit de-restrictors for sale, has any one used on of their products? I like the speed up Rebel, as it still shows correct speed on the display.

 

[soundwave]

not used there dongle as i rather have it so i can remove it if need be bit hard when inside the motor. tbh i hardly bother looking at the screen any more or the speedo i have for the right speed.

the spacer goes between the sprockets so gives space for the chain.

this might be the 1 they use but not 100% sure

http://www.pro-cycling-golla.de/Kassetten_Kettenblaetter_Verschlussringe/Kettenblatt_18_Zaehne_gekroepft_fuer_Chainglider_artikel54dc85a67f6b3.html


scrap that as its not the same ;(

 

[EddiePJ]

Blimey that lock ring has had some hammer

Glad that isn't my motor.

I find it odd that people are willing to spend thousands on bike, yet won't part with £30.00 to carry out correct maintenance. Not to mention ruining a locking ring at roughly a tenner a go.

 

[Artstu]

Glad that isn't my motor.

I find it odd that people are willing to spend thousands on bike, yet won't part with £30.00 to carry out correct maintenance. Not to mention ruining a locking ring at roughly a tenner a go.

Indeed, I just have one of these with the correct ends, I've had it a long time and it does the job perfectly

On a maintenance front, my friends son has left his race bike at my house so I can look at his gears, he lost access to his top gear at a race last week, probably the only race I've not attended, prior to that he picked up a rear wheel puncture, which normally falls to me to fix. Trying to take a back-seat I let his Dad fix it for him (I think).
The second I touched the bike today I could feel the back wheel was loose, it literally just had the frame hanging onto the wheel, the brake quick release was open and the new tube valve has no dust cap. Bear in mind he's done a circuit race with 24 mph average speeds on it like this, and his sister has even been on a road ride to try it for size as she's just about outgrown her bike. I'm flabbergasted to be honest.

Shrunk in the wash.

 

[Cletus Boondoggle]

Does anyone happen to know the torque specs on the Bosch Performance Line CX motor mount bolts? I have a Cube Nutrail Hybrid with a similar problem.

THE CREAK IS NO LONGER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



It was just bolts holding the motor to the frame that needed tightening, it is now silent and SO much nicer to ride

Got the same LBS to do it and they were great, fitted a 17t gear too which after a brief ride today seems to have made a big difference. Will report back after some more use but really pleased with this modification!

 

[Cletus Boondoggle]

I contacted my dealer and they sent me the torque specs for the Bosch Active Line, Performance Line and Performance Line CX motors. Several of my bolts were below spec. I tightened my bolts to spec and my creaking went away. I am not sure if it is Cube-specific or applicable to all brands. Here are the specs:

• (3) 13mm Engine Mount Bolts 25-30 Nm
• Torx T30 Front Engine Mount Bolt: 13-15 Nm
• Torx T30 Rear Engine Mount Bolt: 9-11 Nm
• Lockring 20-25 Nm

My crank bolts were also below spec but my creaking was caused by the engine mount bolts. I've attached the original page image that has the rest of the Bosch specs.

Does anyone happen to know the torque specs on the Bosch Performance Line CX motor mount bolts? I have a Cube Nutrail Hybrid with a similar problem.

 

[git-r]

2000 mile update:

Parts replaced:
Front brake pads
Rear brake pads x2
Chain
Cassette
Circa 5 batteries for the dongle

Otherwise it's all good.

For the last 7-800 miles at least it slipped in top gear. Apparently this was due to the chain and cassette being worn which makes sense as I've just had it serviced with these items replaced and it's now the best it's been. No more slipping in top which makes it faster and nicer to ride.

The bolts holding the motor to the frame were also tightened as it had started to make the annoying creaking sound again.

I've used it in all weathers, some weeks more than others but it's very much my primary form of transport.

I've said it before but it's SO much quicker than any other transport in London and with the mileage I've done the has already saved me over £1000. Before it's 1 year old I'd expect it to have saved the total cost of purchase in train fares!

It's had a relitavely quiet time over the summer as my road bike got some use but the mileage has been climbing more rapidly as the weather has changed.

Amazingly it's never let me down, I've never been late for work and I'm still enjoying using it.

I wouldn't recommend the shop I bought from due to the problems I had initially but would definitely recommend the bike and the motor/battery. I haven't noticed any drop in battery life so far.

It's made a big improvement in my quality of life - leaving less time to get to work then taking less time to get home.

Here's to the next 6 months and 2000 miles

 

[Apprentice]

I have a similar bike on order and enjoyed reading your thread
Thanks for that and look forward to the next update

 

[Apprentice]

Which pannier rack and mudgaurds did you go with
And how is the rack holding up 2+ k later

 

[beep]

I contacted my dealer and they sent me the torque specs for the Bosch Active Line, Performance Line and Performance Line CX motors. Several of my bolts were below spec. I tightened my bolts to spec and my creaking went away. I am not sure if it is Cube-specific or applicable to all brands. Here are the specs:

• (3) 13mm Engine Mount Bolts 25-30 Nm
• Torx T30 Front Engine Mount Bolt: 13-15 Nm
• Torx T30 Rear Engine Mount Bolt: 9-11 Nm
• Lockring 20-25 Nm

My crank bolts were also below spec but my creaking was caused by the engine mount bolts. I've attached the original page image that has the rest of the Bosch specs.
View attachment 13994

Thanks for info, very helpful, but a slight correction. Translating the attached doc, both T30 bolts should be torqued to 9-11 Nm ("folgemontage" in german means follow up assembly, not rear).

All bolts on both bikes (Trek Powerflys both with 1400 miles on the clock) were below spec. I greased and tightend the crank arms (M8) to 25 Nm, although most crank manufacturers list 40-60 Nm. To me 25Nm seemed tight enough and was certainly a lot tighter than they were (my torque wrench only goes up to 25Nm).

All creaks have now gone.

 

[Ducknald Don]

For the last 7-800 miles at least it slipped in top gear. Apparently this was due to the chain and cassette being worn which makes sense as I've just had it serviced with these items replaced and it's now the best it's been. No more slipping in top which makes it faster and nicer to ride.

If you ride with a worn chain it will wear out the cassette prematurely, it might be worth checking the chain more frequently.

 

[git-r]

B

Which pannier rack and mudgaurds did you go with
And how is the rack holding up 2+ k later

The pannier rack and mud guards were cube’s own version for the bike. They’re still working but have failed numerous times.

 

[git-r]

4500 Mile Update

The bike has been failing quite regularly.

A few times now I’ve had to get taxis.

I can’t remember exactly what more has been replaced but the spokes in the back wheel started failing (tyre was replaced too at about 4K) but despite my suggestion of replacing the wheel due to the other spokes being likely to fail the LBS replaced spoke 3 times (£90) then swapped the wheel (£110 with disc).

Pads/chains etc usual stuff. Gear shifter.

The main problem I have now is that the motor cuts out randomly so it’s back at the shop again currently, will update once it’s fixed.

It’s starting to become increasingly unreliable so I’m probably going to buy a new bike.

I’d like a full suspension touring bike, with panniers and mud guards, I’ve only found a couple of suitable bikes for this but they are very expensive. Will start a separate thread and ask for suggestions.

 

[git-r]

RE the creaking, it’s very much still there and has continued to annoy me for all of the many hours I’ve spent riding it. After it’sserviced it’s quiet for a few miles then returns