Conversion suggestions

So I have a Cannondale EQ Adventure step thru arriving in about a week and haven't decided which kit to put on it yet, I do know 750w is my sweet spot and I rarely go above 15mph but need the oomph for a steep hill I take a few times daily .

What I'm looking for is suggestions for what you would put on it and how as in positioning of kit components for as neat a look as possible.

Bear in mind I am not overly keen on rear rack mounted batteries and do have a brand new 17.5ah 48v Hailong battery lying around unused from my previous project.

If you didn't mount it on the rear rack, that leaves the downtube ? It would get in the way of "stepping through"? If you wanted something very powerful for hills but wanted to stay at legal -ish assist speeds

DWG22C 48V (17 amps controller at 48v) but needs a 180mm rotor, don't know if you can change that easily with an adapter

I reckon half of the members on here want electric mopeds but want to call them e- bikes.

I decided to build an electric moped. Picked up a 39 year old frame with a v5 from an auction last week for £170 plus buyers fees. So no mot required after next September and free tax the following April.

 

Most of the stuff that came with it was junk and has gone to the recycling centre, including the engine and exhaust. Nice 5 star wheels though. Shame I can’t use the back one.

 

It‘s going to get a rear hub motor. And a 20s 10p battery where the engine used to be.

 

https://www.easyliveauction.com/catalogue/lot/efa204a077914e9293e8eaa23334d536/0af8d24542e81eb9357e7ef448a6646f/classic-vintage-motorcycle-auction-at-haynes-motor-mu-lot-48/

Edited November 2, 20232 yr by AGS

I decided to build an electric moped.

 

How much is the required insurance ?

£100 through Bikesure. Much cheaper than a Surron or Talaria.

 

I estimate total build cost at £3K with all new parts, including blasting and powder coating the frame.

 

I’m going to build the battery and that will be around £1K and motor/controller another £800.

Edited November 2, 20232 yr by AGS

I decided to build an electric moped. Picked up a 39 year old frame with a v5 from an auction last week for £170 plus buyers fees. So no mot required after next September and free tax the following April.

 

Most of the stuff that came with it was junk and has gone to the recycling centre, including the engine and exhaust. Nice 5 star wheels though. Shame I can’t use the back one.

 

It‘s going to get a rear hub motor. And a 20s 10p battery where the engine used to be.

 

https://www.easyliveauction.com/catalogue/lot/efa204a077914e9293e8eaa23334d536/0af8d24542e81eb9357e7ef448a6646f/classic-vintage-motorcycle-auction-at-haynes-motor-mu-lot-48/

 

The difference being you have v5 ,register and insuring it, much different to those who fit 750w mid drives or 1kw hubs and call them e bikes and ride with what they think is impunity.

I decided to build an electric moped. Picked up a 39 year old frame with a v5 from an auction last week for £170 plus buyers fees. So no mot required after next September and free tax the following April.

 

Most of the stuff that came with it was junk and has gone to the recycling centre, including the engine and exhaust. Nice 5 star wheels though. Shame I can’t use the back one.

 

It‘s going to get a rear hub motor. And a 20s 10p battery where the engine used to be.

 

https://www.easyliveauction.com/catalogue/lot/efa204a077914e9293e8eaa23334d536/0af8d24542e81eb9357e7ef448a6646f/classic-vintage-motorcycle-auction-at-haynes-motor-mu-lot-48/

I'm intrigued, interested and look forward to see how you get on.

So I have a Cannondale EQ Adventure step thru arriving in about a week and (...)I'm looking for is suggestions for what you would put on it and how as in positioning of kit components for as neat a look as possible.

 

Well... I will start by putting a battery on downtube and see how bike looks like. Then I will do the same with rear rack and decide which is more aesthetically pleasing.

 

Rear hub seems like a perfect fit, but I think I will go with TSDZ2b.

It depends on the bike usage and terrain, personnally for my use I would opt for a small light discreet front hub motor but then again my terrain is fairly flat.

A mid drive is a little unneccassary though it is the modern trend driven by the major oem proprietary brands that think every one should own a sports/mtb bike type mid drive.

The drive should type used should be driven more by as I have mentioned the intended usage and terrain. A mid drive is pointless if one is only pootling around locally or for riding short distances.

Edited November 3, 20232 yr by Nealh

I only have experience with hub drives but my understanding of regulation mid drives is that you need to keep up with the motor pedaling in order to keep the motor running. so for someone wanting to hop on and ride thanks to the benefit of the motor the ghost pedaling tactic of us lazy hub motor users isnt an option?

After getting myself hyped up for a torque sensing mid drive, i think i am actually more inclined to go for a rear hub, i have just about managed to get away with 2 bikes being kept indoors a third would be the straw.

That being the case it would be my Fiido d4s that would get the chop so i would be without a rear hub powered bike, i have my bbs02 for long distance fair weather cruising so this will be my everyday all weather workhorse.

So with that now established in my mind any recommendations on a waterproof 750w 48v reliable rear hub kit.

I only have experience with hub drives but my understanding of regulation mid drives is that you need to keep up with the motor pedaling in order to keep the motor running. so for someone wanting to hop on and ride thanks to the benefit of the motor the ghost pedaling tactic of us lazy hub motor users isnt an option?

 

Yes why i am going to go hub drive with this build for errands and such it just makes more sense.

I rode my mid drive most of the summer, and didnt enjoy the having to think about gearing up n down all the time the hub relaxes me

have you thought of torque sensing with a hub drive?

it offers the same natural ride feel of a torque sensing kit plus the lower cost of a hub drive.

My BBTS kit without wheel and without motor is on sale for £100 at the moment.

You need to add to that a wheel with 9-pin connector and a battery.

I also sell the whole kit, including wheel and battery. Price for the whole kit starts at £449.

Head over to https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?tskit for details and installation manual.

have you thought of torque sensing with a hub drive?

it offers the same natural ride feel of a torque sensing plus the lower cost of a hub drive.

My BBTS kit without wheel and without motor is on sale for £100 at the moment.

You need to add to that a wheel with 9-pin connector and a battery.

I also sell the whole kit, including wheel and battery. Price for the whole kit starts at £449.

Head over to https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?tskit for details and installation manual.

 

I will certainly take a look, sounds intriguing

the ghost pedaling tactic of us lazy hub motor users isnt an option?

 

It's possible to get the BBS01B motor doing nearly all of the work, by pedalling too slow using the absolute minimum pedal push force possible on highest assistance (firmware tweak "Keep current" at 100% helps). I don't know if similar can be done with the TSDZ2 because I've never tried one, and certainly will never buy one.

The Woosh 360wh whole kit at £449 sounds like a good deal.

 

Not all mid drive is TS the bafang bbs is PAS /cadence sensor.

Edited November 3, 20232 yr by Nealh

750w takes you into direct drive hub territory where i think for hills you want a geared hub, im sure geared 750w hubs exist but you will have to shop in China or the US for a good selection.

i have had a little experience with larger direct drive hubs and hills are not exactly where they shine..

TSDZ with OSF can have cadence PAS not sure though if this is possible without OSF.

Pointless having a 750w/1000w motor unless one is going to pump 25/30a through it to get any benifit, then you are into more expensive battery territory as well.

The Akiema 128h & hcst models are rated 800w and are geared hubs.

[mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] suggested the Xiongda two speed a few weeks ago, which might be worth a look?

 

http://bruceteakle.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_20.html

It's possible to get the BBS01B motor doing nearly all of the work, by pedalling too slow using the absolute minimum pedal push force possible on highest assistance (firmware tweak "Keep current" at 100% helps). I don't know if similar can be done with the TSDZ2 because I've never tried one, and certainly will never buy one.

The 48V TSDZ2B that I sell has a full throttle. Head over to https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?tsdz2 for details. If you want to climb hills without pedalling then use the throttle.

Edited November 3, 20232 yr by Woosh

I have tried front hub, rear hub and BBS02, if i was going to do it again i would go for a rear torque sensor rear hub.

 

The BBS02 is great but even with a gear sensor fitted i found getting a good chainline difficult and gear changes at times annoying.

 

Mid drives motor are a bit like marmite, you either love them or hate them.

 

There are fans of both systems on the forum, it comes down to personal preference, if you get a chance try and ride both systems.

 

If you go for a rear hub motor then look into Gaadi inner tubes, this will save you a lot of hassle when you get a puncture.

 

You may have to buy 2 files for your rear dropouts if fitting rear hub motor, a second cut flat one and a 10mm round file.

 

Also you may have to use an adapter to get the battery to fit on the downtube properly, this helps if your bottle cage bolts are not mounted in the centre of the downtube.

 

Wolf Tooth B-RAD 4-Slot Mounting Base | Merlin Cycles

 

This forum is great for advice and thanks for joining.

I decided to build an electric moped. Picked up a 39 year old frame with a v5 from an auction last week for £170 plus buyers fees. So no mot required after next September and free tax the following April.

 

Most of the stuff that came with it was junk and has gone to the recycling centre, including the engine and exhaust. Nice 5 star wheels though. Shame I can’t use the back one.

 

It‘s going to get a rear hub motor. And a 20s 10p battery where the engine used to be.

 

https://www.easyliveauction.com/catalogue/lot/efa204a077914e9293e8eaa23334d536/0af8d24542e81eb9357e7ef448a6646f/classic-vintage-motorcycle-auction-at-haynes-motor-mu-lot-48/

 

3K is a lot, a sum like that burning a hole in my pocket would likely get spent on an actual IC motorbike.

 

You could start a thread about your very interesting build in the S-pedelec section? People would chime in every so often about how and why it isn't a S-pedelec, and you could pretend to not understand what they're saying and continue posting about your progress. I'm certainly interested in seeing this beast get built.

After getting myself hyped up for a torque sensing mid drive, i think i am actually more inclined to go for a rear hub, i have just about managed to get away with 2 bikes being kept indoors a third would be the straw.

That being the case it would be my Fiido d4s that would get the chop so i would be without a rear hub powered bike, i have my bbs02 for long distance fair weather cruising so this will be my everyday all weather workhorse.

So with that now established in my mind any recommendations on a waterproof 750w 48v reliable rear hub kit.

The Q128H from BMSBattery is supposedly rated at 800w. It's actually the same size as your average 250w motor, so would easily pass as one, especially if the easy-peel label fell off. It's a freewheel hub, so limited to 7-speed, but that's fine considering how much power it can give. At 14A and 48v, it gives enough power for what any normal rider would need on normal roads with the occasional steep hill. At 20 amps, it should have enough power for heavyweight riders to deal with steep hills. 25A would be overkill for most riders, but it can easily handle that much power.

 

If you must have 8-speeds or more, there's the Q128C, which can handle up to 22 amps. It's a bit narrower than the H version because it needs more room for the cassette. It's a bit wider too, so you have to spring the frame a bit to get it in, and you normally need to off-set the rim to get it central.

 

Whatever motor you get, make sure you choose the right speed version. Its max RPM at the voltage you run it should be approximately 1.2 to 1.3 times your planned modal riding speed.

 

If you get a nice KT controller, you don't need a torque sensor. If your only experience of hub-motored bikes was a Woosh, Freego or similar with crappy LiShui controller, I can see why someone might think about the advantages of a torque sensor, but I'd say a KT controller is a better solution as it gives more choice of how hard you need or want to pedal.