Conhismotor controller red/yellow electric lock wire.

[Deleted member 4366]

I just checked mine, and the blue wire isn't connected either. I have my red and yelow wires twisted together. The only other difference is that I have my PAS connected. I can't see that making a difference, but it's worth a try.

You should check your phase wires om the AC setting.

 

[eHomer]

...You should check your phase wires om the AC setting.

Ok Dave, I'll try that as well.

Strange though, the DC volt readings were jumping about nicely on the main motor wires on my old controller, but not a glimmer with the new one.

The pas sensor has been fitted and connected all the time.

I found another page on the web for instructions on how to check the mosfets, with power off, checking resistence to power, and it was correct, about 10k ohms on each one.

It really looks as though the controller is running fine, no smells etc., all screen functions working and setable.

It just looks as though for some reason the pas and the throttle are not instructing the controller to send power down the main motor wires, even though their red power feeds do have 5v going to them.

I tried asking Conhismotor if they had any ideas, and initially they were replying very promptly, but they've stopped replying now, unfortunately.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The only thing I can think of is that it doesn't know what to do because it can't figure out the phase/hall sequence. Try disconnecting the battery. Wait a bit, then reconnect it and spin the wheel by hand. Try the throttle while it's spinning.

 

[eHomer]

I've just tried that, but no luck.

Yesterday I found this US page via a Google search about testing:

Ebike Troubleshooting Page

The hall sensor tests showed voltage coming back ok, and blown mosfets test showed that they were ok.

The link to the "Pinout guide for matching controllers and motors" got me thinking about the colour code differences between the old controller and the new one again.

http://www.ebikes.ca/troubleshooting/PinoutGuide.pdf

They talk on there about the "nine continent motor", which certainly looks similar to mine.

One of their connection photos shows the hall sensor leads being swapped around, rather than the main motor power leads.

Should I be trying dofferent combinations there possibly ?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

One of their connection photos shows the hall sensor leads being swapped around, rather than the main motor power leads.

Should I be trying dofferent combinations there possibly ?

I thought that you'd done that already. That table from Lsdzs is supposed to take you the shortest way through the combinations. If it's a simple combination error, you can normally see or here something happening, like ticking or juddering.

 

[eHomer]

I thought that you'd done that already. That table from Lsdzs is supposed to take you the shortest way through the combinations. If it's a simple combination error, you can normally see or here something happening, like ticking or juddering.

I'd already tried all different combinations of cross connecting the three main motor phase leads, but not the corresponding three thinner hall sensor leads. I'd read somewhere that was usually easier to do because they were seperate bullet connectors, unlike the 6 way plug/socket of the halls.

I did then try switching those thin hall sensors as well, though logic was telling me it was the same thing.

I've spent another couple of hours trying everything again, including what you suggested, switching off and on, spinning the wheel and then trying the throttle and the pas, but no life from the motor at all, not the slightest flicker.

I'm thinking that the testing of the hall sensor pulses back as the wheel was turned, and the fact that the old controller shows pulses going to the motor whereas the new one shows not a flicker, must mean that the controller is simply not sending anything to the motor, either because of some logic in it's setup, or a fault.

I can't use that bike at all while tinkering with the new controller, it's not just a quick changeover with the wiring cleated to the bike etc., so I think I'll have to give it up as a bad experience.

I was very impressed with the speed of delivery from Conhismotor and the build quality of their products, but I have to say I'm now quite disappointed with their technical department who have stopped replying to my emails after the first two.

I suppose I was lucky with the changeover to the new sine wave controller from BMS on my other electric bike. This is the danger of buying individual parts from different far east manufacturers I suppose. After sales service is going to be tricky because they may suspect faulty installation or other suppliers parts being the cause.

If SWMBO finds out it was £75 down the drain I'll never hear the end of it !!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Do you want to send it to me to have a play with it?

 

[eHomer]

That's very kind of you Dave, it would be nice to possibly find out if the unit is faulty or if it's just some weird incompatibility between manufacturers, as you've already mentioned.

I'll send you a private message.

 

[eHomer]

I thought I'd better post an update on my project to upgrade my controller to one with a better lcd panel and variable PAS.

d8veh very kindly tested the controller and panel, and found the same as I had, that the panel appeared to work in every respect except being able to turn the motor. He then suggested that I try contacting Conhismotor again, which I did, and they kindly offered to send a replacement controller unit, free of charge.

This arrived very quickly, and I've just tried it on the bike, and I get exactly the same problem, everything working, settings etc., even feedback of speed from the hall sensors, but still not a glimmer of action from the motor.

Each time I put the original, simpler controller back, it works fine, so the motor, battery, throttle and wiring must be ok.

I'm completely at a loss now as to what to do next. It seems so risky to buy more parts.

 

[patpatbut]

Any update about this controller?

Pat

 

[eHomer]

Any update about this controller?

Pat

I'm afraid there's nothing further I can add Pat.

Neither the originally supplied controller nor the identical replacement, both sent by Conhismotor, has ever worked.

Dave very kindly tested the original for me, but he found exactly the same problem, where it does not spin a motor, though the LCD panel works correctly and the correct voltages appear on the throttle and PAS hall connections, even trying swapping all phase connections etc..

I now have a lot of ebike parts, so I'm able to "mix and match" quite a selection when testing. I've tried those two faulty Conhismotor controllers on three different hall motors, with two identical LCD control panels. I also have two other square wave controllers and two batteries, three throttles and two PAS sensors.

Every combination of parts spins all of the motors except using either of the two Conhismotor controllers.

That made me suspect the software settings in the LCD panel, but I tried everything, and have since used the same panel with a controller bought from Dave with the MXUS motor. Both the one that Dave supplied and the identical panel that came from Conhismotor for the faulty controllers work Dave's controller perfectly, so I can now rule that out.

So, to loosely quote Sherlock Holmes, once you rule out the impossible faults, you are left with the only possible truth, however improbable it may seem, both of the Conhismotor controllers are faulty.

and no further responses from Conhismotor.