ConhisMotor - 48 volt 1000 watt PROBLEM

[HYDRAL1K]

Hey all,

First of all nice to join your community. Normally I'm really good at scrapping the internet for topics and knowledge but I'm in a really, really difficult situation. You guys definitely seem like the best possible resource.

I ride an electric bike I built from my apartment to my job 5 times a week, back and forth. It's about a total distance of 14 miles. Recently, upon leaving work, I hit a small pothole and my electric bike stopped turning the wheel. I also didn't have the chain connected at the time so I was absolutely screwed.

The issue is, I can't figure out what broke.

Here is the technicals on the bike itself:
Wattage: 1000 watts
Volt: 48 volts
Battery: 72 amp 48 volt (12volt by 18 amp SLA-AGM Battery * 4 )
PAS Computer : 5 Speed Digital Computer with Special Controller http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=385
The Kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-New-48V-1000W-Front-Wheel-Electric-Bicycle-Conversion-Kits-with-LCD-Display-/231241750362?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d715175a

Here is a list of symptoms and conditions after the incident:

• There is a lock that turns on and off the bike. It appears to work (power on/off)
• There is a throttle with a lock and battery indicator. It appears to work (lighted battery meter)
• Power turns on through the bike. (I hear a little click sound in the motor when I turn on the bike)
• Turning the throttle does not turn the wheel.
• The PAS sensor has always been disconnected. (I essentially used it as a scooter)
• The bike worked perfectly, except sometimes I would have no power to the wheel when I turned it on. I would have to turn off and on the bike again to reset something and then the throttle and wheel worked. (I don't know what I reset, but it would finally power the wheel)
• Sometimes I would have to repeat the above solution 2 - 8 times till I finally got the wheel to turn.
• The brake is not active. (As reported by the PAS Computer)

What I've tried to diagnose:

• Short the throttle connection (high to common) on the controller to see if the throttle was busted. The wheel would still not turn. (But it made a clicky sound when I released the short)
• I've opened up the controller to check for pop'd capacitors or loose wires. None
  
• The PAS 5 Speed Computer appears to be in working condition with no faults.
• Disconnected all wires and reconnected
• Yes, I've checked the battery.

I'm a smart kid, with a good job, but this is my only way of getting to work. I have NO IDEA what is wrong, and not much money. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong? I start work again Monday so any input or ideas is greatly appreciated.

 

[HYDRAL1K]

At this time, I think it is either the motor itself, the controller or the PAS Computer. I have no idea what is wrong.

 

[trex]

Open the controller and take a look if anything looks burnt.
Post pictures of the controller's inside so we can have a look too.
you may need another controller to rule out that isn't where the fault is.

 

[halfer]

Is the bike rideable without power? I found my old Juicy without a battery could get me from A to B, albeit with much more effort. Get a chain back on the bike (which will keep it legal too) and allow more time for your journeys this week - though 14 miles isn't a short stretch, admittedly.

Also, you could always pick up a cheap road/race bike from eBay to tide you over.

Either of these strategies will allow you to take the necessary time to get the e-bike fixed - you may need to order components or spend time getting technical advice here.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Nobody can tell you what's wrong. You'll just get daft random suggestions. The only way to find out is by doing a series of logical tests.

First test will tell you whether your controller is active. Switch everything on. While it's connected, measure between the black and red throttle wires. Stuff your voltmeter probes up the back of the connector. You should get approximately 5v.

Next test is to prove that the throttle works. Same test as above but between the red andn the signal wire on the throttle
When you turn the throttle, it should go from 1v to 4v approx.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Nobody can tell you what's wrong. You'll only get a load od random suggestions. You need to do a sequence of logical tests to find the cause.

Firstly, disconnect the brake connectors if you have them and try it.

Then test to see if the controller is active. Switch on and while connected measure the voltage between the red and black throttle wires. Should be 5v.

Check that the throttle works. Measure between the black and signal wire while you turn the throttle. Should change between 1v and 4v.

Do those tests and report back.

 

[HYDRAL1K]

Here are some images. I don't have a voltage meter until Monday, but I really doubt it's the throttle control after my debugging.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Don't rule anything out until you've tested. You need to keep an open mind and let the logical tests show you what's wrong.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You can also save a lot of time by getting an ebike tester fron Ebay. Search for "ebike controller tester".

It'll test everything.

 

[halfer]

Try wiggling some connectors too, when you would expect power to be delivered, to see if it comes back to life. You might be lucky and find the issue is just a wire/connector that is at fault.

 

[HYDRAL1K]

You can also save a lot of time by getting an ebike tester fron Ebay. Search for "ebike controller tester".

It'll test everything.

I looked around, but I cant find such a device :O

 

[HYDRAL1K]

Try wiggling some connectors too, when you would expect power to be delivered, to see if it comes back to life. You might be lucky and find the issue is just a wire/connector that is at fault.

I've thoroughly tried that

 

[HYDRAL1K]

I've been thinking-- is there a way I can bypass both the controller and computer and get some sort of new controller mechanism?

The motor has a 3 phase connection with 5 PAS cables.

I don't really care to bike while I'm riding on my bike, I have a seperate road bike which I completely bike with. Essentially... is it possible to turn this into a full out scooter / moped in a cheap way?

 

[Alan Quay]

Some tips:

1. If someone offers to help you, perform the tests that they ask, and report back. It's rude not to.
2. Shorting the throttle often will not work. The controllers are clever, and won't always respond to that. You need to test it with a meter, as suggested by D8veh.
3. You can replace the controller if you like, but you can't bypass it. I'm assuming the motor is a hall sensored, brushless DC design, so it will only work with a controller.
4. The '5 PAS' wires are probably the hall sensor wires. Two for 5v DC, and three sensors for position feedback.
5. The PAS Computer is likely to be little more than a display and a few buttons. Most designs can run without it, although you may have to short a couple of wires at the controller. The clever stuff is all in the controller.
6. Without pictures this is all guesswork.

I hope that has been some help.

 

[HYDRAL1K]

1. If someone offers to help you, perform the tests that they ask, and report back. It's rude not to.

There are some instruments I don't have to test with.

I will upload some more pictures and schematics for it.

 

[Alan Quay]

You need one of these, less than £5

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-LCD-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Ammeter-OHM-AC-DC-Circuit-Checker-Tester-Buzzer-/360538749861?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item53f1c8bba5