Cleaning / Detailing

bigclick

Pedelecer
Sep 11, 2014
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This is the first time in all my years that I have bought a bike from the more expensive end....

Can anyone advise on how to clean and detail a top end MTB without damaging the components?

Maybe advise on a maintainence regime too? ( but not so far as to change fork oil every thirty hours:) )
 

EddiePJ

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 7, 2013
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Currently 28 views, with no replies. :(

Bigclick, the first thing that you need to do is get the bike dirty! ;)

After a ride, I never ever leave the cleaning until the next day, even if I'm dirtier and wetter than the bike, and it's late at night.

Assuming that you have access to a hose pipe or portable 12volt washer, quickly rinse off any large lumps of mud etc, avoiding bearing areas, battery area and console area.

After this I quickly use an airline to blast the chain free of water, then apply a degreaser to the chain. As this is taking action, I apply muckoff or similar, and gentle agitate it in.

Once both have been left to do their thing, I then hose down the whole bike, once again avoiding bearings, battery area and console. I never direct water into the cassette, I lean the bike over to the right (not onto the derailleur) Then wash the rear cassette that way.

After the above, I thoroughly go over the whole bike with an airline to remove as much water as possible, then I spray the whole bike with duck oil, avoiding brakes and cassette, and once again blast the whole bike with an airline.
Never apply wd40,duck oil, gt85 etc to bearing areas and rear cassette. The reason being is that you will eventually wash the grease out. So don't do it!

I then suspend the bike as below.



Once suspended, I remove the wheels, brake pads, saddle, battery and console.

I then re wash the wheels, paying great attention to the discs. Removing the wheels, also gives me a chance to check for any damage and loose spokes.

It bugs the crap out of me when people say that they have cleaned their bike, then upon inspection they haven't cleaned under the saddle. That is my reason for removing it, as I can then wash and clean it properly. I also apply anti seize spray to the seat post.

Next up is brakes. I thoroughly clean the calipers with the pads removed, and also thoroughly clean and check the brake pads, for damage and wear.

I use kimwipe to clean the battery and console area, and then once again spray the whole bike with duck oil, then wipe everything down again.
I pay particular attention to the rear derailleur, jockey wheels and front sprocket. Make sure that each is spotless.

Next up is suspension. Make sure the dust seals are clean and intact, remove any water or grime, and check sliders.

Once I am happy with everything, I replace the brake pads. On your bike, the pads are left and right handed, as is the retaining spring.
Before installing the wheels, I check the tyres once again, looking for thorns etc.

Lastly I lubricate the chain, and apply ACF50 to any exposed metal parts, and also go up and down through the gears, and check brake action, and stering.

Stubborn marks can be removed with car insect and tar remover, and it's worth buying a bag of lint free rags. You can buy these by the sack load online. Just look for bag of rags.

Other than just checking that everything is sound and secure, there isn't really much else to do.

I then move onto my spd shoes, and ensure that the cleats are cleaned out and spotless.

I have also today bought a replacement KMC X10.93 chain, so that I can run two chains. One on the bike, and one being cleaned.

I guess that I can take a completely dirty bike, and get it back to looking pristine in about half an hour. It's half an hour very spent and could save loads of money and hassle. Whilst I carry out light maintenance work to my bikes, for serious maintenance work I use a local lad, who in my opinion, is the best that there is. He has both the tools and knowledge that I don't have. I'd like to change this over time, and more specifically in relation to the electrical aspect of things, and I'm currently tempted to see if I could go on Bosch training days. Even if I can't solve an issue, I like to know how things work.
 
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Croxden

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 26, 2013
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1,384
North Staffs
I've just gone off biking.
 

awol

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2013
1,216
374
Don't know what to add after EddiePJ's cleaning routine, I don't get anywhere near as muddy as him but what I would say is not to use a power washer, especially around electrical or bearing areas and not to apply wd40 to chain (also bearings) as I believe that washed out my factory lubricant and caused early chain wear. Every couple hundred miles clean the discs with brake cleaner and the chain with a chain scrubber and re-lube and generally wash the bike down with a small brush and soapy water. After prolonged wet weather every few months I unplug electrical connections and spray with servisol super 10 and reconnect. Thats about it for me.
 

EddiePJ

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 7, 2013
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There you go awol, you have taught me something new. :) I hadn't heard of servisol 10. Thanks. :)

I also learnt the hard way in respect of washing grease out of bearings. It's a very common mistake to make, which isn't helped by people telling you to use products such as wd40 and GT85 in those areas.
 

bigclick

Pedelecer
Sep 11, 2014
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Eddie, OCD much?
Wow though that's a hell of a routine, thanks for posting. Hope I can keep that regime up.
 
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bigclick

Pedelecer
Sep 11, 2014
206
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64
Currently 28 views, with no replies. :(
If 28 views and no replies is sad. I should be crying over on the electric bike section.... 108 views and no reply for a few words and pictures of my first ride on the new KTM :(

What can I expect from you youngsters though, even my own kids ignore me :D
 

EddiePJ

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 7, 2013
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I forgot to add.

A winter investment, and something that I have been using for many years on anything from motorcycles to hand tools.

ACF50 not only protects your investment in respect of corrosion, it also makes a both a good polish, a fantastic water resistant applicant for exposed wiring, and a good chain lube if used carefully.

I tend to apply it with cotton wool buds to all fastenings and fixings. By no means cheap, but neither is an e-bike.


 

awol

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2013
1,216
374
I forgot to add.

A winter investment, and something that I have been using for many years on anything from motorcycles to hand tools.

ACF50 not only protects your investment in respect of corrosion, it also makes a both a good polish, a fantastic water resistant applicant for exposed wiring, and a good chain lube if used carefully.

I tend to apply it with cotton wool buds to all fastenings and fixings. By no means cheap, but neither is an e-bike.
So if I get told to leave the bike outside over winter I spray this over everything? will it harm if it gets into bearing areas and do you have to avoid areas like brake discs etc and how often would it need reapplying?
 

EddiePJ

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 7, 2013
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Crowborough, East Sussex
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So if I get told to leave the bike outside over winter I spray this over everything? will it harm if it gets into bearing areas and do you have to avoid areas like brake discs etc and how often would it need reapplying?
I know of a lad that commutes all year round on a motorbike, through all conditions, and he just applies one coat of ACF50 in the late autumn, then doesn't touch the bike until the spring, when he degreases it. If I can find the photos that he has taken, you would be amazed at just how well that it works. I have also been told by someone who applies the stuff for a living as part of their bike detailing business, that less is more when it comes to application. He almost mist coats bikes, rather than soaking them until run off.
How accurate that the following is, I have no idea, but it makes for impressive proof if true. http://f2mcltd.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/winter-salt-protection-acf50-fs365-or.html

I really wouldn't want to make a definitive answer or statement about how it affects bearings, but from my own experience and use, I do apply it to the rear cassette/free wheel area and have never suffered any issues.
I Keep it well clear of brake pads and discs, but I do carefully apply it brake pad pins, and almost dry wipe disc bolts with it.

The only downside that I have found with the stuff is the cost, but there again, just a normal spray can of it will last you years. :)
 

EddiePJ

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 7, 2013
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Just spotted a couple of things that I missed out.
When cleaning the suspension components I always use a small amount of fork juice. This also lead to me making another discovery for it's use. Fork Juice clearly uses some element of silicon within it's properties, but it goes way beyond that, and when sprayed over the frame, brings it back to a new finish, which lasts far longer than any other marketed silicon based spray. It makes the use of Muc Off almost redundant, as the dirt just falls off the bike with the lightest of water pressure.
Traffic film remover is also brilliant for any stubborn marks.
 

One_Box

Pedelecer
Jul 29, 2014
181
66
Leominster
Stroooth !!! EddiePJ all I can say is Chapeau :D

I only ride on the road so a quick wash down then I go over the bike and wheels with baby wipes and a final polish with a cloth. I pay particular attention to the brake blocks and tyres though.

I'm not going to show this post to my bikes though, they will want to change owners :eek:
 
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