I'd like to know which lubricant is used on the FreeGo Hawk chain.
Hopefully, I can find and use the same.
Hopefully, I can find and use the same.
Chain Lubricant
- Thread starter AndyBolton
- Start date
It's a standard 7/8 speed rust resistant derailleur chain so is manufactured with impregnated strong hold grease.
Adding a grease like that externally is not advisable with a derailleur since it will gather road grit and clog the rear mechanism components.
Opinions on what is best to use vary widely and it's a contentious subject. I'd say best to use a light lubricating oil or one of the specific chain lubricants sold in bike shops. Others will have opinions based on their experiences.
There's a range of suitable lubes included on this web page.
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Adding a grease like that externally is not advisable with a derailleur since it will gather road grit and clog the rear mechanism components.
Opinions on what is best to use vary widely and it's a contentious subject. I'd say best to use a light lubricating oil or one of the specific chain lubricants sold in bike shops. Others will have opinions based on their experiences.
There's a range of suitable lubes included on this web page.
.
My choice would be a spray of GT85 once a month or WD40. GT85 has an added teflon ingredient called ptfe. Both have a carrier fluid that dilutes the oil allowing it to penetrate the inner running surfaces of the chain and then evaporates leaving the lubricant behind. No matter what you use, you should use it to protect the chain and gears. If there appears to be build up dirty lubricant, like Flecc pointed out, the chain needs to be cleaned properly. Ironicly, GT85 or WD40 (with a tooth brush and rag), is the best thing to use for a DIYer.
To each his own i suspect. I religiously used GT85, very frequently on our original ProConnects. First chains needed replacement after 3,500 miles. Changed lubrication to a Dry Lube (Muc Off wax one) and my wife's bike is now at 11,000 miles, so twice the distance and only beginning now to show signs of need for replacement. Chain has stretch but no serious noises or clunkiness yet. My first ProConnect has done 5,000 on it's second chain, still fine. Less distance as I'm always on the ProConnect S. I live in Bournemouth, and dust from off road trips and sand from the promenade can turn chain lube into grinding paste. I think with dry lube, it mixes with the wax and falls off.
I use dry lub, and always used it on my road bikes and also my motor bikes when it became available for them.
This subject comes up quite frequently and various methods of chain lubrication are recommended according to the individual member's own experience with one or several products.
WD40 is wonderful stuff and is very useful for a number of applications but it is not a lubricant and is patently unsuitable for bicycle chains.
My own empirical view is that dry lub suits my needs best. Some are better than others but for the last year, I have been using 'Purple Extreme' which I find outstanding compared to everything else I have used.
It appears expensive for a small bottle but it goes a long way . That, though, isn't its best feature for me. Somehow, not a great deal of road crud seems to stick to it and when the chain begins to look mucky, the stuff comes off easily - a couple of sheets of kitchen roll works a treat.
The product, like similar ones from several companies, is easy to apply and re-apply as necessary and I have noticed a significant improvement in gear-changing on my 3x8 derailleur. Both up and down changes are silky smooth and although my chain was never noisy, it is noticeably quieter than before.
For anyone considering changing from traditional chain lubricants to these modern dry lubs, I'd advise a read of the manufacturer's blurb about Purple Extreme. There's a lot of engineering in the product and I consider it not entirely unlike the change many of us have made with our car engine lubrication. Fully synthetic oil has been around a long time now and is tried and tested. I have used nothing else in my vehicles for several years.
Here's a link: http://www.purpleextreme.com/pe.html
Tom
WD40 is wonderful stuff and is very useful for a number of applications but it is not a lubricant and is patently unsuitable for bicycle chains.
My own empirical view is that dry lub suits my needs best. Some are better than others but for the last year, I have been using 'Purple Extreme' which I find outstanding compared to everything else I have used.
It appears expensive for a small bottle but it goes a long way . That, though, isn't its best feature for me. Somehow, not a great deal of road crud seems to stick to it and when the chain begins to look mucky, the stuff comes off easily - a couple of sheets of kitchen roll works a treat.
The product, like similar ones from several companies, is easy to apply and re-apply as necessary and I have noticed a significant improvement in gear-changing on my 3x8 derailleur. Both up and down changes are silky smooth and although my chain was never noisy, it is noticeably quieter than before.
For anyone considering changing from traditional chain lubricants to these modern dry lubs, I'd advise a read of the manufacturer's blurb about Purple Extreme. There's a lot of engineering in the product and I consider it not entirely unlike the change many of us have made with our car engine lubrication. Fully synthetic oil has been around a long time now and is tried and tested. I have used nothing else in my vehicles for several years.
Here's a link: http://www.purpleextreme.com/pe.html
Tom
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WD40 not a lubricant?! Unsuitable for a bike chain?! I and many would and will agree there are better and more expensive products out there. But to state this should probably be accompanied with a reason why you believe this to be so. Are you also saying that because fully synthetic is a better and more expensive product than regular motor oil that regular oil is not a lubricant and unsuitable for engines? One of the main ingredients of WD40 is 15 weight spindle oil.
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WD40 also contains penetrating agents and solvents which get deep into the chain and removes the manufactures lubricant. It’s the lubricant deep in the chain which does the job and that is difficult to replace when it’s gone. Chains will do a couple of thousand miles from new without any lubricant. Some people don’t use anything for the life of a chain and just wipe off the grit and road crap with a tissue.
Emo Rider, if you tell me that one of the main ingredients is 15 weight spindle oil, I'm happy to believe you although my understanding is that the 'recipe' for the bog standard variety of WD-40 remains a commercial secret.
As I have very limited knowledge of metallurgy and tribology, I have only 50 years experience in practical engineering matters to rely on but I can't ever remember using WD-40 specifically as a lubricant, nor did any of my colleagues. I used it for many other purposes but not for lubricating any metal components.
You're probably aware that in recent times, the WD-40 people have introduced a range of situation-specific varieties of their product. One of those new cans is WD-40 Bike. Does that say anything to you?
In the 1970s, my wife asked me to buy her a greenhouse. I bought one, laid a base and erected the house. After a time, the sliding door became very sticky and I was required to fix it. WD-40 got the door running sweetly again but it just didn't stay like that. A couple of weeks later, I did the same thing.......after the third or fourth time in as many weeks, I decided something better was required so, as I was out of grease, I used some used engine oil from a recent oil change I had performed on my car. I didn't have to touch that door again till the following summer.
Of course, that's just my experience but if you insist that WD-40 is an appropriate lubricating medium for bicycle chains, then perhaps car manufacturers should start using it in engines and gearboxes. That they haven't speaks volumes to me.
Tom
You are correct about the solvent in WD40. It is naptha. If you saturate the chain with it, it will wash out the original lubricant. When I clean my chain with a saturation of WD40, I always lube each link with chain oil afterward and then lighty spay the chain with WD40 to carry it inside wiping off all of the excess. What I do not understand is how all the unlubricated, rusty chains came into the shop this winter caused by all of the salt on the roads. For those that managed to escape rust, those must be great tissues. Know where I can get some?
All you need to do to find out what the ingredients for WD40 are is write them and request a COSHH sheet. It not only lists the ingredients but any health and safety risks associated along with precautions to take. I did say that there were better lubricants than WD40 so thank you for reaffirming this by pointing out that the WD40 people have made a better product available. I have not heard of it but will give it a try, again thank you. Lastly, WD40, motor oil, and gear box oil are three very different products with very different applications. At no time in my posting did I suggest that WD40 could be used in an engine or gear box nor would anyone that knew anything about maintaining a car. Your last few lines of your post speaks volumes to me; I want you nowhere near my car
P.S. The reason why the motor oil worked better on the greenhouse door is the same reason why they don't use WD40 in engines.
I lubed the piston on my greenhouse auto vent with WD40 at the end of the season.
The next spring it had got a grip so tight when the weather warmed up the pressure burst the cylinder.
It's a water displacer, that's what it's designed for and does just that.
My bike chain is still going strong at 6000 + miles without any lubing.
The next spring it had got a grip so tight when the weather warmed up the pressure burst the cylinder.
It's a water displacer, that's what it's designed for and does just that.
My bike chain is still going strong at 6000 + miles without any lubing.
You asked a simple question and I believe flecc provided the best response. The product you pick should best reflect the kind of riding you do. Reading up on the various properties of the wide array of choice and prices should help you decide what to use and how much you are willing to pay. And no, WD40 is not the best nor is it good in all types of riding. It works for me and my riding habits and I take the time to manually clean my chain regularly. Perhaps if I tried some of the products mentioned by other posters, dry lube for example, I might not have to clean so often. Good luck
Perhaps I misunderstand what you are saying Emo Rider?
Could you be specific and state that you believe WD-40 is a suitable chain lubricant for bicycles....or not? Now, I know that lots of people mistakenly use WD-40 to lubricate hinges, chains and various other components around the house and garage but if you insist that the product is appropriate for bicycle chains, I have to disagree with you.
I can tell you that any lubrication properties contained in WD-40 are incidental to the main purpose and only provide very short-term protection of moving parts. The reason chain manufacturers use highly specialised lubricants and not the readily-available WD-40 should tell you something. If you had experience of working metals, you would understand why WD-40 is not used for lubrication. If you don't accept that from me, speak to any millwright, turner, toolmaker or lathe operator.
Chains and gear trains require very specialised lubricants particularly dependent on specific environments. Industry doesn't use WD-40 for lubrication and I don't use it on my bike. Why do you think there are so many well-recommended chain lubricants on regular bike forums but WD-40 is never recommended?
Tom
Could you be specific and state that you believe WD-40 is a suitable chain lubricant for bicycles....or not? Now, I know that lots of people mistakenly use WD-40 to lubricate hinges, chains and various other components around the house and garage but if you insist that the product is appropriate for bicycle chains, I have to disagree with you.
I can tell you that any lubrication properties contained in WD-40 are incidental to the main purpose and only provide very short-term protection of moving parts. The reason chain manufacturers use highly specialised lubricants and not the readily-available WD-40 should tell you something. If you had experience of working metals, you would understand why WD-40 is not used for lubrication. If you don't accept that from me, speak to any millwright, turner, toolmaker or lathe operator.
Chains and gear trains require very specialised lubricants particularly dependent on specific environments. Industry doesn't use WD-40 for lubrication and I don't use it on my bike. Why do you think there are so many well-recommended chain lubricants on regular bike forums but WD-40 is never recommended?
Tom
If a chain lasts that long unlubed, any lubing regime is pointless.
I've ridden with Croxden, his bike is crank drive and he doesn't hang about, so his use is a valid test.
I like a clean chain, so it's a regular wipe and squirt with GT85 for me.
Like flecc said this can be a contentious subject probably because there is no one wonder lubrication product that can be used in all applications. If you would go back and reread what I have posted you will find I have made it quite clear that I get that.
I have also stated that I would like to try other products including what you use, a dry lubricant. I do not see what is the point of your last post directed at me or hopes to accomplish with regard to the op's original question.
You disagree with me and that is ok by me. I am sure the op has gotten some good info. Yes you have misunderstood me. I have addressed this posting of yours in my previous posts as to how and why I use WD40 and GT85. I do not use just these products to maintain my chain.
Based on your knowledgeable information, I find it unfortunate that a company that produces a product like WD40 and GT85 has managed to deceive and defraud so many people and for so long. Perhaps your energies pointing out the ineffectiveness of WD40 directed at me would be better put to use redirected and pointed toward the manufacturer and agencies that protect consumers.
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Emo Rider, other readers will be very bored by now but you questioned my statement:
So, just to be clear, while you may be happy to use GT85 and WD-40, I'm fine with your choice there if that suits your purpose. If you wish to contend, however, that WD-40 is a lubricant, then I'm afraid that is a very tenuous description of what that product is designed to do.
Tom
This is what you said:
As if to suggest that you disagree, you explained that WD-40 includes an oil:
So, just to be clear, while you may be happy to use GT85 and WD-40, I'm fine with your choice there if that suits your purpose. If you wish to contend, however, that WD-40 is a lubricant, then I'm afraid that is a very tenuous description of what that product is designed to do.
Tom
For four years I didn't do anything to my chain and it soldiered on, albeit rather dirty. I then started cleaning it and lubricating it with WD-40 and now it's rather rusty and needs more constant attention and re-lubrication. I may well try a dry lube on the next bike, or even leave it as I have the old one.
Michael
Michael