Cable Length

[irc]

Hi.
New here after thinking about a cheap conversion kit. I'm reasonably handy with spanners on a bike.

Looking at a Yose kit. Local use 20 or 30 miles.

A question that occurred to me was that as I am 6ft3 and gave the bars fairly high, level with saddle, is there any issue with cables being too short?

 

[Benjahmin]

The kits I've had the cables have been too long and accomodation has to be made for the extra.
Watch out for 'cheap' kits.
Some are direct drive motors which are highly innefficient battery eaters. Only really good for going fast on empty flat roads.
They are likely to have basic speed control controllers. These give instantaneous full power up to the speed of the level selected. What this does is give a very jerky ride. Full power up to, say, 10mph then nothing. No graduation, it's like a trigger - very course.
Cheap kit can mean a cheap battery (the heart of your system) with cheap cells. If mismatched can suffer voltage sag and a short life.
Your avatar shows a touring bike, if this is what you want the kit for then lightness, good range and reliability are going to be your friends.
Link to your chosen kit here, before buying, and you'll get help to not waste your hardearned.

 

[irc]

Thanks for reply. Yes that's my Surly tourer at Lake Ontairio during a Vancouver to Boston ride. But I'm not touching that bike. Reserved for long tours.

Thinking more a second hand steel 90s rigid MTB. For local use only, mainly road. I have had a short try of an E-bike with a Bosch motor. But that was in the USA with a 19mph cutout. The 15mph UK limit is a bit of a discouragement as for around half my local rides I'm thereabouts or faster anyway so would just be hauling a few extra KG about for limited benefit.

But just thinking about it. The either on or off power you mentio is a definite no no. Unless it was a relatively light kit where I traded weight for short range used mainly for hills. Have it set on level 1 assist bar hills or a headwind.