My second project (trike was first) is to convert a cheap (to me) 700c wheeled Triban bike to something I can use with long trips on fairly flat ground, or short trips on hilly offroad tracks. Although I'm not young, I can can cycle a fair distance still, unaided. However, two situations have nearly beaten me, so it's time to bite the proverbial bullet and start to pencil in some sort of assistance "kit".
Firstly, it's going to be a rear hub drive. I can imagine many will be groaning about that, but ..... I like the look of integrated mid-drives, but they are expensive, backup is poor, and you have no alternatives if spares aren't available. Every after-market mid-drive I've seen is butt-ugly, and I don't want to ride something that looks that unattractive. Anything with moving parts will wear out, so fewer moving parts is better. The other thing is, it has to be 'legal'. So only a 250w (nominal) hub without a throttle. I have a number of licenses I need to keep, and being caught breaking the law in any form, might prejudice those, so it's just not going to happen.
A couple of years ago I had a very interesting ride from Enfield Lock, down to Camden Lock, by following the canal system, and a little riding on pavements in Camden where the canal goes subterranean . There was a meal break at Camden, but the last few miles of the ride back nearly killed me. My riding buddy was on a fairly lightweight road bike and I was on a heavier MTB with much fatter offroad tyres. I would very much like to do the same journey from time to time, but start even further away. [I like canals.] Last year, a different cycling buddy took me for a 16 mile offroad trek, and saved the longest/steepest hills for the end of the ride. I never walk up a hill if I'm on a bike, but my wheels were full of mud and I was was worn out, I did walk up one hill. So embarrassing, I don't plan to repeat it.
What I know, what I think I know, and what I don't know.
Volts = power. More volts = more speed (potential).
Amps = width of that grunt.
Watts = speed x power.
Wah = Potential for how much energy is stored.
I will be limited to 36v volts, to ensure the motor doesn't breach the 250w nominal power consumption. I have seen motors that are 250w if a 36v battery is used, and 350w if a 48v battery is used. I'm guessing, this would need a controller capable of utilising both voltages, which I don't think is that unusual these days? Should I consider something like this for offroad use, where a 42v battery (and more umph from the hub) would be advantageous?
I've no intention of riding fast. 15mph is PLENTY, and 10mph is not a bad average. I usually manage about 9mph offroad. 250w is going to be plenty on canal paths, and many offroad tracks. Steep hills though, something else. That said, 'assistance' will be good enough. I don't need or want the motor to do all the work. I cycle for exercise, not to race other cyclists.
The kit needs to be supplied by a UK retailer. I will not buy off AliExpress or ChAmazon.
Many have experience of Yose, a Chinese company that ship from the UK. I have priced up some of their kits, and they sell black hubs with black spokes that suit me and the bikes I ride. If I'm shelling out on a battery, I will want a big one, say 20ah, although ..... And here comes the "committee" bit....
Care of Project 1, (trike) I look to have access to a 20ah Hailong 1 battery with integrated controller. The trike owner would be happy to loan me the battery (possibly) or I might not need that size, and a 17ah would suffice. I really liked the 'integrated' controller as it makes for a tidy install. Is this typical of the Hailong batteries?
Again care of Project 1, I have experience of a cadence sensor, which would be okay, but I'm sure a torque sensor is better? Maybe not so useful on the flat, but certainly on a hill? Could I fit both, and ONLY connect one or the other as I needed it? Cadence for the flat, torque for hilly offroad perhaps?
LED/LCD panels .... How programmable are they, how programmable can they be?
Sine wave controllers seem to create less noisy motors. I have not the faintest idea what this means. Progressive volts into the motor, verses on/off perhaps?
Grab a beer and start writing. There are perhaps 4 or 5 or 6 people who write here regularly can tell me everything I need to know by way of guiding me to the 'righteous path', but I'm also thinking they/you won't all agree on a single path. I hope not because we all enjoy choice.
Thank you in anticipation.
Edit for voltage typo.
Firstly, it's going to be a rear hub drive. I can imagine many will be groaning about that, but ..... I like the look of integrated mid-drives, but they are expensive, backup is poor, and you have no alternatives if spares aren't available. Every after-market mid-drive I've seen is butt-ugly, and I don't want to ride something that looks that unattractive. Anything with moving parts will wear out, so fewer moving parts is better. The other thing is, it has to be 'legal'. So only a 250w (nominal) hub without a throttle. I have a number of licenses I need to keep, and being caught breaking the law in any form, might prejudice those, so it's just not going to happen.
A couple of years ago I had a very interesting ride from Enfield Lock, down to Camden Lock, by following the canal system, and a little riding on pavements in Camden where the canal goes subterranean . There was a meal break at Camden, but the last few miles of the ride back nearly killed me. My riding buddy was on a fairly lightweight road bike and I was on a heavier MTB with much fatter offroad tyres. I would very much like to do the same journey from time to time, but start even further away. [I like canals.] Last year, a different cycling buddy took me for a 16 mile offroad trek, and saved the longest/steepest hills for the end of the ride. I never walk up a hill if I'm on a bike, but my wheels were full of mud and I was was worn out, I did walk up one hill. So embarrassing, I don't plan to repeat it.
What I know, what I think I know, and what I don't know.
Volts = power. More volts = more speed (potential).
Amps = width of that grunt.
Watts = speed x power.
Wah = Potential for how much energy is stored.
I will be limited to 36v volts, to ensure the motor doesn't breach the 250w nominal power consumption. I have seen motors that are 250w if a 36v battery is used, and 350w if a 48v battery is used. I'm guessing, this would need a controller capable of utilising both voltages, which I don't think is that unusual these days? Should I consider something like this for offroad use, where a 42v battery (and more umph from the hub) would be advantageous?
I've no intention of riding fast. 15mph is PLENTY, and 10mph is not a bad average. I usually manage about 9mph offroad. 250w is going to be plenty on canal paths, and many offroad tracks. Steep hills though, something else. That said, 'assistance' will be good enough. I don't need or want the motor to do all the work. I cycle for exercise, not to race other cyclists.
The kit needs to be supplied by a UK retailer. I will not buy off AliExpress or ChAmazon.
Many have experience of Yose, a Chinese company that ship from the UK. I have priced up some of their kits, and they sell black hubs with black spokes that suit me and the bikes I ride. If I'm shelling out on a battery, I will want a big one, say 20ah, although ..... And here comes the "committee" bit....
Care of Project 1, (trike) I look to have access to a 20ah Hailong 1 battery with integrated controller. The trike owner would be happy to loan me the battery (possibly) or I might not need that size, and a 17ah would suffice. I really liked the 'integrated' controller as it makes for a tidy install. Is this typical of the Hailong batteries?
Again care of Project 1, I have experience of a cadence sensor, which would be okay, but I'm sure a torque sensor is better? Maybe not so useful on the flat, but certainly on a hill? Could I fit both, and ONLY connect one or the other as I needed it? Cadence for the flat, torque for hilly offroad perhaps?
LED/LCD panels .... How programmable are they, how programmable can they be?
Sine wave controllers seem to create less noisy motors. I have not the faintest idea what this means. Progressive volts into the motor, verses on/off perhaps?
Grab a beer and start writing. There are perhaps 4 or 5 or 6 people who write here regularly can tell me everything I need to know by way of guiding me to the 'righteous path', but I'm also thinking they/you won't all agree on a single path. I hope not because we all enjoy choice.
Thank you in anticipation.
Edit for voltage typo.
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