Bringing bike back to life

[debox]

Hi
I bought a bike last week that I saw running for a short while, but after an hour it stopped. All lights on the LED meter off (790) and no motor assistance (rear 250w Bafang). Nothing.

I have used the battery on another bike and it appeared good. I do have a multimeter, though I can't pretend to know how to use it well, and it reads 41.7v. It is a 36v battery, so all good there.

My first thought was that the controller is dead. I contacted the bike manufacturer and an bought a replacement after sending them photos of the old. Just fitted the new controller and still nothing.

I was hoping for a straight lead swap, but there are some differences that I did not know what to do with them. I am hoping that if I get all the leads in the right places then it would magically work.

Here is the original controller

And the new controller

Below is a photo that shows the unused connections. There are just 3 - the 2 showing in the photo and a single green wire on a connector. Also, there is single blue wire (you can see it bottom left in pic) that is does not have a connector and shows just bare copper.

And this shows the connections that remain attached to my old controller that do not seem to have a home on the new.

If anyone could help letting me know what I should do with the 3 unhomed connectors it would be appreciated. It would be my first steps in getting this bike working.

As you can tell, I am pretty clueless with this. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[debox]

With help I think I am getting there with the connections.

Now the next problem - the key/power mechanism is failing on the battery. Does anyone know where I can get this from in the UK?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The LED panel works separately from the controller, so if there's no lights on it, it's nothing to do with the controller. Instead, it's a battery supply problem. Its power wires go through the controller, so it has two connectors in that line. Firstly, the bullets that connect the battery to the controller, and secondly, the 5 way one which comes out of the controller.

Switch the battery on, then, while connected, stick your probes up the sleeves around the bullet connectors. You probably won't have your battery voltage there, which means that the fault is between there and the battery.

If you do have battery voltage there, check between red and black on the 5 way LED panel connector. If you have it there, and the panel still doesn't switch on, then the LED panel is faulty. The bike can still run without the panel, but you need to show me which one you have if you want to know how.

The switches themselves are not normally faulty. It's the soldering on all the ones I've looked at. Try resoldering the wires. Use plenty of heat and make sure you give it enough time to let the solder fuse to the contacts.

It worries me a bit that you used a different replacement controller. The panel connectors can look the same, but are wired completely differently. Can you show pictures of both connectors and wires, and the panel connector and wires?

 

[debox]

Thanks @d8veh for your help.

The key barrel was burnt out inside. I have replaced this now and the power is good and stable to the controller.

I did double check that the old controller is faulty. If definitely is, with no lights on at all with power checked at the controller connections.

So I will have to use the new controller and sort the wiring.

The easy side - power, HAL and 3 phase wires all look good. I don't think that there is a problem there.



Now the now the confused side. This is what I have connected -



You can see that the blue lead from display controller is connected to a blue with a thin red line lead on the controller. Not sure why it has a red line too on it.

The old controller had a green lead coming from it with the rest of the wires, where this new controller has it coming from a joint to the white on the throttle plug.

Below shows the connected brake wires, the PAS connector with no home and the only unused connector from the controller.



As it is, the display lights up but nothing else works. No response to throttle.

I have asked the supplier for the wiring diagram for the new controller but, apparently, there is not one!

Any help getting this all connected and working would be appreciated.

 

[debox]

Rather than mess around, I have decided to fit a brand new controller and display from BMSbattery.

This is what I have in my basket.

S06S controller
Speed sensor
LCD5 Meter
12 Signal Easy PAS (hopefully I will not need this fitted and I use the existing)


Is this all good for my setup? Does the LCD5 allow the switching of bike lights?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

No switch for your lights. You can use any handlebar switch from Ebay.

Your present setup is wired incorrectly.

The display has
Red connected to the battery positive
Blue is the controller ignition wire that joins to whatever the ignition wire is on it.
Black is ground
Green is PAS speed and can only be connected to the controller if the controller is designed for an LED panel
Yellow and white are battery voltage and ground for low power lights.

Without seeing what you have it's difficult to say what else you've done wrong. You need to take a photo that shows all the wires coming out of the controller and all the wires you have connected or want to connect to. I need to see them all at one in one clear photo, like in the bottom half of this one, but bigger/closer.
https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB16LO2OFXXXXcdXFXX760XFXXXv/225704052/HTB16LO2OFXXXXcdXFXX760XFXXXv.png

 

[debox]

Thanks for your help.
I got a wiring diagram from the controller manufacturer and I wired the display exactly as you described. The only trouble is that there was not a blue wire available from the controller.

I wired the blue ignition wire to the red and the display lit up. Things were still not right - the mode showed 3 lights and did not respond to the mode button. I removed the green wire and it still showed 3 lights. Reading here, I thought without the green wire it would default to mode 1 setting.

Alway, I have had enough tinkering and, prehaps, something has broken as I tried to getting it working blindly.

I will be ordering the new kit this evening. I do hope that I have ordered all the right parts. Do let me know if the basket of parts looks incorrect.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks for your help.
I got a wiring diagram from the controller manufacturer and I wired the display exactly as you described. The only trouble is that there was not a blue wire available from the controller.

I wired the blue ignition wire to the red and the display lit up. Things were still not right - the mode showed 3 lights and did not respond to the mode button. I removed the green wire and it still showed 3 lights. Reading here, I thought without the green wire it would default to mode 1 setting.

Alway, I have had enough tinkering and, prehaps, something has broken as I tried to getting it working blindly.

I will be ordering the new kit this evening. I do hope that I have ordered all the right parts. Do let me know if the basket of parts looks incorrect.

The blue wire carries battery voltage when you press the "on" button. It's purpose is to power the controller. If you connect it to anything but the correct ignition wire, you can do a lot of damage as nearly other wire works on 5v.

There's loads of reds. Which one did you connect it to?

 

[debox]

Oh...
I connected the blue ignition wire to the red also supplying the display.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

With just the red and black connected, the display should light up and do all functions. Obviously, the functions won't have any effect when the blue and green are not connected to the controller.

 

[debox]

With just the red and black connected, the on/off button on the display does nothing. Lights do not light up when pressed.

Below is the wiring diagram for the controller.

The 790 display has the following (according to manufacturer specs I found):
Red - Battery +
Blue - Lock
Black - Battery -
Green - Signal
Yellow - Lights +
White - Lights -

 

[Deleted member 4366]

In Chinese, lock means ignition or switched power. There's something wrong with that diagram because there's no throttle signal going into the controller.

 

[debox]

Well things are no better. Rather than mess around further, I placed an order with bmsbattery. That was a mistake!

Bmsbattery are terrible! Been well over 2 weeks now since I placed the order and despite paying extra for fast shipping they still have not dispatched my order. For the first week they contacted me and told me they had problems which will delay the order by a few days.

Then end of last week they emailed me to let me know that it would be sent that afternoon.

This week I have been told lots of stories - courier failed to collect, no flights so not worth shipping and that all sorted so will be shipped immediately. Still not sent.

I know that they are often recommend here so I do not know what has happened to them.

I buy enough from China to know that it is not like buying from Amazon/UK. I would happy to wait if these people were upfront, but they are not.

I would avoid using Bmsbattery, at least until they sort out their issues.

I think I will have to reorder elsewhere.

 

[Nealh]

Elifebike / PSWPower are good or their presence on Aliexpress never had an issue using them.
BMS can be a hit and miss experience.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Well things are no better. Rather than mess around further, I placed an order with bmsbattery. That was a mistake!

Bmsbattery are terrible! Been well over 2 weeks now since I placed the order and despite paying extra for fast shipping they still have not dispatched my order. For the first week they contacted me and told me they had problems which will delay the order by a few days.

Then end of last week they emailed me to let me know that it would be sent that afternoon.

This week I have been told lots of stories - courier failed to collect, no flights so not worth shipping and that all sorted so will be shipped immediately. Still not sent.

I know that they are often recommend here so I do not know what has happened to them.

I buy enough from China to know that it is not like buying from Amazon/UK. I would happy to wait if these people were upfront, but they are not.

I would avoid using Bmsbattery, at least until they sort out their issues.

I think I will have to reorder elsewhere.

What's different is your frame of reference. All these things are normal. You just have to be patient. If you want stuff in a hurry, you have to get it from UK suppliers, but then you don't get what you want.