Brake Levers
- Thread starter Waspy
- Start date
You can do it but it's never a bad idea to have the cut outs connected.
Are the brakes hydraulic or cable?
Many of us have adapted existing brake levers (see my build thread for example) that I'm sure we can find a solution between us.
Are the brakes hydraulic or cable?
Many of us have adapted existing brake levers (see my build thread for example) that I'm sure we can find a solution between us.
They are cable.
They are Shimano EZ Fire 50 24 speed shifters.
Here is a picture that looks very similar to my shifters:
What is so bad about not connecting them? Apart from crashing into a tree at 15.5 mph of course.
Surely if you are not peddling then the pedelec is not being powered?
They are Shimano EZ Fire 50 24 speed shifters.
Here is a picture that looks very similar to my shifters:
What is so bad about not connecting them? Apart from crashing into a tree at 15.5 mph of course.
Surely if you are not peddling then the pedelec is not being powered?
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
You need the cut-outs because throttles break quite easily and will stay on when broken - not off.
Not a problem though. It's very cheap and easy to make brake switches.
You buy two of the cheapest cycle computers from Ebay:
LCD Digital Bike Cycling Cycle Bicycle Computer Odometer Speedometer Velometer | eBay
Cut the sensor wire close to the computer and chuck the computer..
Cut the connector/s off the ebrakes about 2" from the connector.
The sensor has two wires. Some are coaxial. Separate the wires and join them to the two on the connector - preferably by soldering.
Cable-tie one of these sensors with connector to your cross-bar or anywhere where there is bare brake cable running along your frame.
Fix the magnet to the cable nearby so that it slides towards/over the sensor when you apply the brake. Fix the magnet just like fixing it to a spoke, but not so tight to damage the cable .
You have to experiment with positions until you get the switching at the right point.
Front brake can be harder to find a suitable bit of cable. You can use the bit between the calipers, but then you need to make a small bracket to hold the sensor.
Just having a switch on the back brake should be adequate.
Not a problem though. It's very cheap and easy to make brake switches.
You buy two of the cheapest cycle computers from Ebay:
LCD Digital Bike Cycling Cycle Bicycle Computer Odometer Speedometer Velometer | eBay
Cut the sensor wire close to the computer and chuck the computer..
Cut the connector/s off the ebrakes about 2" from the connector.
The sensor has two wires. Some are coaxial. Separate the wires and join them to the two on the connector - preferably by soldering.
Cable-tie one of these sensors with connector to your cross-bar or anywhere where there is bare brake cable running along your frame.
Fix the magnet to the cable nearby so that it slides towards/over the sensor when you apply the brake. Fix the magnet just like fixing it to a spoke, but not so tight to damage the cable .
You have to experiment with positions until you get the switching at the right point.
Front brake can be harder to find a suitable bit of cable. You can use the bit between the calipers, but then you need to make a small bracket to hold the sensor.
Just having a switch on the back brake should be adequate.
Last edited by a moderator:
Mate, your build thread is just amazing. Do you work for NASA or something?
Some of the guys on here are so clever it gives me a headache.
I don't think there's enough room on my shifters to do what you did.
Haha - I do have previous
http://web.bethere.co.uk/amigafan2003/index.html
I love my projects - as long as it involves a motor or computer (both preferably) and it's not household DIY!
Do you like torches? I bought a 1000+ lumen Maglite from a guy in the States who mods them himself in his home workshop, here:Haha - I do have previous
http://web.bethere.co.uk/amigafan2003/index.html
I love my projects - as long as it involves a motor or computer (both preferably) and it's not household DIY!
FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Light!
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
You haven't tried this one yet then. It gives out so much light that it pushes you backwards:
5X CREE XM-L T6 LED 5 Mode 6000 Lumen Waterproof Flashlight Torch | eBay
5X CREE XM-L T6 LED 5 Mode 6000 Lumen Waterproof Flashlight Torch | eBay
Sweet Jesus!
But......those 5 diodes ruin the parabolic curve of the reflector which as you know is what makes the throw.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
I have a couple the 3 x Cree T6 torches, and I can tell you that you don't need to worry about parabolic curves. Think car halogen headlights to get some ide of the light that comes out of these. I just put in a bid for one of the 5 x Cree T6 ones to see what it does. I think I'll have to put a bigger motor in my bike to overcome the backwards force.
My 8fun kit came with the inline brake cutout switches: I've got 'em fitted front and rear & they work a treat.
I have similar combined brake lever & gear shifts to yours.
If you go with a kit that doesn't have them, I think they're less than a fiver each.
I have similar combined brake lever & gear shifts to yours.
If you go with a kit that doesn't have them, I think they're less than a fiver each.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Before you get too exited. I'm not competely sure, but I believe that you need a controller with a high voltage brake switch input to use them, which rules out most controllers. By "high voltage" they mean 5v as opposed to 0v.
You're probably right there, d8veh - Label on my controller says "brake level Low"; but there's no other info that I can see.
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