I mean when I pull the lever at handlebar, the brakes are hardly gripping.Whats the problem with your brakes, if it appears to be 'on' or partially 'on' as is perhaps you have pulled up the lever arm in your yellow box too far, but if too weak??
EDIT:
If too much brake as is, yes drop that arm about a cm and retry..
The problem is that you didn't adjust the fixed pad clearance first. On the back side is a set screw that winds it in and out. Wind it out until you can just hear it touch the disc when you spin the wheel, then wind it back a fraction until it doesn't touch. You then adjust the cable clamp and/or cable adjusters until you get the correct lever operation.
Be aware that on some cable brake calipers, there's a tiny grub screw on the periphery that locks the set screw, so if the set screw doesn't turn, look for the grub screw - or look first if you want to be clever.
I posted a good video about 12 days ago in a similar thread. Maybe someone can find it for you. I'm on a ferry at the moment with very slow Internet, so I can't search for you.Would you have a video of this, as I have not messed with brakes that much, Im sure I will be able to when checking
I posted a good video about 12 days ago in a similar thread. Maybe someone can find it for you. I'm on a ferry at the moment with very slow Internet, so I can't search for you.
This is quite a good explanation except for the bit about adjusting the stationary pad. He does it visually, but it's much better to screw it in until it touches, then back it off until the wheel spins without touching. Be aware that some brakes have a stupid tiny grub screw in the edge of the caliper that locks that adjustment. In that case you have to loosen it before you can adjust with the set screw. This is the most important adjustment that's often missing from instructions, so make sure you do it first if you want brakes that actually stop you efficiently.