I have no knowledge of the Bosch set- up but had a problem with my Pro Rider Flare Dapu Mid Motor magnet and sensor . If the magnet on the front wheel has too great a gap from the pick-up, the display goes blank and the Motor doesn`t power . A ticking noise alerted me to a tight gap , so I put the magnet on another spoke , too big a gap and no power or display . Careful alignment giving a gap of only 0.1 mm solved the problem . Still a bit too tight for my liking though , but it works .
Bosch motor/display cutting out.
- Thread starter Phil Dryden
- Start date
0.1mm sounds like quite a small gap. I found this picture in the official installation manual. I double-checked gap on my bike and it is within given range. Magnet is positioned just like on the picture.
Thanks for posting the picture , a very generous gap . At least with the magnet on the wheel the speeds and distances are reasonably accurately recorded . My Fat Tyre Folder has the sensor on the crank , no pedalling , no speed or distances show on the LCD . I have used GPS and known distances to compare with the LCD reading to estimate that on my usual routes I am under reading by about 30% . I am interested to find out how many miles I get out of my rear Kenda 20 x 4 in. snow tyre on tarmac .
I have the same problem in the last months. Both a Cube Hybrid and suddenly the intuvia display cuts off only the velocity meter. It is totaly randon, sometimes weeks without problem and then 2 ot 3 times in the same day.
It could be the battery mounting. See the thread https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/bosch-error-code-530-sudden-power-shutdowns.35368/#post-517444
It seems that you get a 530 error with some displays, but just a cut out and no diagnostics with others.
We haven't seen this cutout problem. We have found it is easy to mount the battery incorrectly on its rails so that there is an electrical connection but the battery is very rattly. I can imagine doing that a few times too often could make the battery connection itself flaky.
It seems that you get a 530 error with some displays, but just a cut out and no diagnostics with others.
We haven't seen this cutout problem. We have found it is easy to mount the battery incorrectly on its rails so that there is an electrical connection but the battery is very rattly. I can imagine doing that a few times too often could make the battery connection itself flaky.
If this helps anyone: My mate has a Bosch Intuvia Cx mtb and started an intermittent problem - display lost connection with battery - no power to motor, no speed or battery capacity indicated on display etc. I could duplicate problem by bouncing bike vigorously so suspected poor connections, it got worse till never connected. Got him to clean rear connectors to display and see pins moved ok and then I took the bracket off the handlebars to shake & twist but no connection. We swapped batteries no change. Battery could be charged via bike socket on bike ok.
I had noticed he'd got no grease on battery terminals as my bike had from manufacturer and had bought some dialectric grease in preparation for his as a preventative measure. Put some grease on his terminals and bingo seems to have fixed it and he's been for a ride with no problems.
I'm think of the 5 pins on the battery connector some may be low voltage (3v?) going to the display and these must have got some dirt/corrosion but nothing obvious but with low voltage doesn't need much resistance to cause problems.
So if you've same problem try this simple solution - clean and grease the battery connections first and pop some grease (few £ on ebay) as a maintenance measure.
Anyone got Bosch wiring diagrams as could be useful in future?
Alan
I had noticed he'd got no grease on battery terminals as my bike had from manufacturer and had bought some dialectric grease in preparation for his as a preventative measure. Put some grease on his terminals and bingo seems to have fixed it and he's been for a ride with no problems.
I'm think of the 5 pins on the battery connector some may be low voltage (3v?) going to the display and these must have got some dirt/corrosion but nothing obvious but with low voltage doesn't need much resistance to cause problems.
So if you've same problem try this simple solution - clean and grease the battery connections first and pop some grease (few £ on ebay) as a maintenance measure.
Anyone got Bosch wiring diagrams as could be useful in future?
Alan
A few years later and I realize that this problem is more common that I thought.
After a full year of leaving my bike in the bedroom (annoying my wife, but I do not have a garage so...), resting around 40-60 percent charge at room temperature, as recommended for storage purposes in order to minimize deterioration of Li-ion battery, I can report the following.
I decided to take it for a ride without recharging the battery and it was horrible experience. Just maybe around a mile or so, taking it to a gas station to precisely inflate the tires and a circle around the block the motor was more OFF than ON. Ok, that is a bit overexaggerating, but I definitely experienced TONS of cut-offs.
My first step in attempt to remedy the problem was ONLY to remove the battery from the bike and recharge it fully. During the next ride cut-offs were SIGNIFICANTLY reduced. This gives me the impression that it is almost certain something related to internal battery wiring, whatever everyone else over the internet is saying (or at least it's part of the problem).
I tried to clean the contacts, both battery and Intuvia and they were already completely clean, so no change there.
And then I stumbled upon this excellent troubleshooting video by the Propel bikes (my issue with the Bosch is the first one described in the video):
I started my own diagnostics. Turned the bike on, waited for speed to appear on the screen to make sure everything is connected and then:
1) I unlocked the battery (Powerpack 500) from the bike frame and started to wiggle it around. Nothing happened. Then I started to pull it out of the contacts and it took significant length to pull before connection was lost and the speed disappeared from the screen. So I'm assuring you it has nothing to do with the battery-to-motor connection. That one is very sturdy and resilient.
2) I started to slide Intuvia display until it lost connection. This one took less effort, so I'm not excluding the idea that this is maybe the culprit. I also removed the screw which came with the bike, securing Intuvia display to the mount and making it unable to move. And I also loosen the bolts as recommend in the video but I'm not sure if it's just placebo. FYI, my Intuvia mount has all contacts in "gold color", if that info is relevant.
Anyway, now I get cut-offs rarely, almost exclusively related to hitting big bumps, BUT… Sometimes, when I turn on the bike, the display still doesn't show speed. At that moment, if I turn on the battery using the button built in on the battery itself, everything works fine.
Bottom line is that not a single solution you find online works 100% (including applying dielectric grease and updating firmware). If you ask me, there are ways to get around this but not to FIX it permanently. Bosch design definitely failed here and they don't want to admit.
I hope this will help someone
Cheers!
After a full year of leaving my bike in the bedroom (annoying my wife, but I do not have a garage so...), resting around 40-60 percent charge at room temperature, as recommended for storage purposes in order to minimize deterioration of Li-ion battery, I can report the following.
I decided to take it for a ride without recharging the battery and it was horrible experience. Just maybe around a mile or so, taking it to a gas station to precisely inflate the tires and a circle around the block the motor was more OFF than ON. Ok, that is a bit overexaggerating, but I definitely experienced TONS of cut-offs.
My first step in attempt to remedy the problem was ONLY to remove the battery from the bike and recharge it fully. During the next ride cut-offs were SIGNIFICANTLY reduced. This gives me the impression that it is almost certain something related to internal battery wiring, whatever everyone else over the internet is saying (or at least it's part of the problem).
I tried to clean the contacts, both battery and Intuvia and they were already completely clean, so no change there.
And then I stumbled upon this excellent troubleshooting video by the Propel bikes (my issue with the Bosch is the first one described in the video):
I started my own diagnostics. Turned the bike on, waited for speed to appear on the screen to make sure everything is connected and then:
1) I unlocked the battery (Powerpack 500) from the bike frame and started to wiggle it around. Nothing happened. Then I started to pull it out of the contacts and it took significant length to pull before connection was lost and the speed disappeared from the screen. So I'm assuring you it has nothing to do with the battery-to-motor connection. That one is very sturdy and resilient.
2) I started to slide Intuvia display until it lost connection. This one took less effort, so I'm not excluding the idea that this is maybe the culprit. I also removed the screw which came with the bike, securing Intuvia display to the mount and making it unable to move. And I also loosen the bolts as recommend in the video but I'm not sure if it's just placebo. FYI, my Intuvia mount has all contacts in "gold color", if that info is relevant.
Anyway, now I get cut-offs rarely, almost exclusively related to hitting big bumps, BUT… Sometimes, when I turn on the bike, the display still doesn't show speed. At that moment, if I turn on the battery using the button built in on the battery itself, everything works fine.
Bottom line is that not a single solution you find online works 100% (including applying dielectric grease and updating firmware). If you ask me, there are ways to get around this but not to FIX it permanently. Bosch design definitely failed here and they don't want to admit.
I hope this will help someone
Cheers!
I dealt with this issue for years with my 3 different Nyons on 2 different bikes (the Nyon uses the same Intuvia mount). Tried all the things discussed in this thread about the battery contacts, sensor, etc. then I read a thread somewhere about the old Intuvia mount vs. newer ones, which were supposed to prevent this problem. Found and ordered a new one, swapped it out on my bike, and the problem has never happened again (it had gotten so bad right before I replaced it that the cutouts would happen 10-20 times in a one hour ride!).
On the old mount the 4 terminals on the right side of the mount are all silver, whereas on the new ones two of the terminals are brass (photo of new one attached). The challenge is to find one where you can be sure it is a new one. I got mine from Amazon (in the US) where the listing had a photo, clearly showing the terminals. Of course I wasn’t sure that’s what I would receive, but it was accurate.
Not sure if this will fix your problem or not but has completely changed my riding experience!
On the old mount the 4 terminals on the right side of the mount are all silver, whereas on the new ones two of the terminals are brass (photo of new one attached). The challenge is to find one where you can be sure it is a new one. I got mine from Amazon (in the US) where the listing had a photo, clearly showing the terminals. Of course I wasn’t sure that’s what I would receive, but it was accurate.
Display Holder, for Intuvia and Nyon, 1,300 mm Cable, Including Cable for Drive Unit and 3x4 Rubber Spaces (31.8 mm, 25.4 mm, 22.2 mm) : Sports & Outdoors
Display Holder, for Intuvia and Nyon, 1,300 mm Cable, Including Cable for Drive Unit and 3x4 Rubber Spaces (31.8 mm, 25.4 mm, 22.2 mm) : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com
Not sure if this will fix your problem or not but has completely changed my riding experience!
Attachments
Hmm, that sound like a probable solution (unfortunately, as my bike is no unde warranty, so I'd have to buy replacement part). I did stumble upon this solution in couple of places.
Just of curiosity, what is the color of the pins on your display unit, not the stand itself. Here's how mine Intuvia looks:
You can see the pattern if you look at the photo in the Amazon order screenshot I previously attached. Two silver and two gold/brass of the four on the right side.
BTW this issue was so frustrating I would have paid 4 times as much for the replacement mount—riding is finally enjoyable again…..
Get Your Wiggle On | Cycle, Run & Outdoor Shop | Wiggle
Prepare to get your Wiggle on. We have the awesome gear you need to cycle, run, hike & swim from the world's leading sports brands. No excuses, LET'S GO!
got rid of that thing long time ago drove me nuts being in the middle and the back light on at night.
you can fit it yourself as no dealer required.
I had the 'not starting' problem but it was confusing that it only seemed to happen with a second newer battery I had purchased. Eventually it did happen with the original battery as well but overall was so rare I just ignored it. As the original Intuvia came up to 2 years old I over tightened and split the control button mount so I decided to go the whole hog and buy an 'upgrade' kit including the Intuvia, mount and wiring. The new Intuvia has the gold one side, silver the other connectors and is much tighter when sliding it onto the mount. This has cured the whole issue.
Darren
Darren
Do you mean you replaced Intuvia with Purion?Get Your Wiggle On | Cycle, Run & Outdoor Shop | Wiggle
Prepare to get your Wiggle on. We have the awesome gear you need to cycle, run, hike & swim from the world's leading sports brands. No excuses, LET'S GO!www.wiggle.co.uk
got rid of that thing long time ago drove me nuts being in the middle and the back light on at night.
you can fit it yourself as no dealer required.
It sounds like a bit of a downgrade, but if I followed correctly, the problem we are discussing here happens only with Intuvia mounts (meaning Intuvia and Nyon displays), am I right?
I found here that even Purion users suffer from the same problem, although it might be a completely different issue.
The topic in the link is also an excellent one for all of us who suffer from this issue. Buying new Intuvia mount seems promising. I might even take the plunge, just want to try a few more DIY things, hoping there is another way rather than spending more money for something not 100% guaranteed to work.
never had a problem with the purion display and ride round going 30mph off road for years
That was one of the very first suggestions on this thread. We had occasional semi-random cutouts, more likely to happen when changing power level (just when the power was needed most). We fairly often took of the display and cleaned its connections and the holder connections with whatever was to hand (eg handkerchief, sleeve); short term fix but the issue would reappear. A clean with switch cleaner (not WD40) has resolved it, or at least made it go away for a longer period (we will see).
The holder was the older style (4 sliver coloured pins) mentioned in some posts. Intuvia, 400wh rack battery, 2016 Motus. There is a design fault with the rack mounting as well, that makes it much too easy to lock the battery in the mount when it isn't properly mounted. I don't think that contributed to any of these cutouts; we have learned to be extra careful mounting the battery.
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I'm writing because I've had an identical sequence of problems to those reported in previous posts. My bike is a cube touring hybrid. The problems included Intuvia not starting and bumps in the road causing cut-outs sometimes multiple times a ride. This thread has been hugely useful and I hope that I've now solved my problem. I loosened the bolts on the Intuvia mount and could see under the unit. There you'll find a small number of very tiny screws that connect the Intuvia to the rest of the system. I found that all of mine were a quarter to a half turn from tight. I tightened them up and then retightened the mount (while making sure it wasn't too tight). Since then (100 miles), I have had no problem. This may not be the case for everyone, but it may be worth checking it out.
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