Bike stopped working going up a hill

[John_S]

I was riding up a steep hill yesterday, and the power suddenly cut out towards the end of the hill and hasn't worked since. When the bike is turned on, the LCD lights up but the throttle and pedal assist don't work. When I turn the throttle, what looks like an error message appears on the LCD saying simply "06 info". My bike is a 48v Q128h conversion with the "09 case" controller and the S-LCD3 from BMSB. When I push the bike backwards, there is a lot of resistance from the motor, and it makes a burring, vibrating sound. I disconnected the motor wire from the controller, and the motor still made this sound and had this resistance when pushing backwards. Does anyone know what this problem might be? Thanks for any help.

 

[Woosh]

I disconnected the motor wire from the controller, and the motor still made this sound and had this resistance when pushing backwards. Does anyone know what this problem might be?

that's normal. When you push the motor wheel backward, the internal clutch is engaged, causing the rotor and gearbox to move,
It should not get stuck though.

an error message appears on the LCD saying simply "06 info". My bike is a 48v Q128h conversion with the "09 case" controller and the S-LCD3 from BMSB.

Here is the list of error codes on the KT kits:

Error Code
01＿info Throttle abnormality
03＿info Motor Hall abnormality
04＿info Torque sensor abnormality
05＿info Axis speed torque sensor abnormality
06＿info Motor or controller has short circuit

It seems like some of the FETs have gone.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If you have the 20A case controller, it's more tricky to test.

Remove the battery and disconnect the motor. Remove the cover from the controller. Maybe you,ll see or smell something at that stage. Measure the resistance between each phase wire solder point and the red battery wire solder point. Repeat for the black battery wire. Post the 6 results here.

Normally, if the MOSFETs have popped, there will be significantly increased resistance when you reverse the wheel, but only when the motor is connected.

 

[John_S]

Thanks for your replies.
I'm not sure I'd be able to perform those tests on the wires given my poor electrical knowledge. However, what I was able to do was determine through a different method that the problem appears to be in the controller rather than the motor. I also have a Woosh bike which my wife now rides, and to test the motor on my converted bike, I connected it to the controller on the Woosh. I then turned on the power on the Woosh, and the motor worked fine with both the throttle and the pedal assist, and the LCD was also normal. So it looks like the fault is in the controller. I'm guessing it is a blown FET. I think my best bet is just to go ahead and buy a new controller. I'm thinking of getting the S12P.

 

[wheeliepete]

That's quite a large controller, do you have somewhere to put it? Is your battery up to supplying 30 amps con.?

 

[John_S]

The battery I have has a continuous discharge current of 20A. Would you say this battery would have problems supplying a 30A controller?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The battery I have has a continuous discharge current of 20A. Would you say this battery would have problems supplying a 30A controller?

It's only the maximum current that counts, but it's not a good idea to use a 30 amp controller with a 20 amp battery because it can lead to all sorts of other problems. As a general rule, you should use a battery with a continuous current rating higher than your controller's maximum current.