There are some programmable BMS out there, but they are not very common and tend to be for larger applications than e-bikes. There are some with Bluetooth for cell bank monitoring though.
Battery life
- Thread starter rm2001
- Start date
it is the cost of manufacture and how much better they would be as he has to order 1000 of each bearing he cant get off the shelf as none of them sell bearings but did ask if a 80 quid ceramic bearing would last any longer on my ses wheel and it will but not at that price as can get a pack of ten for under 5 quid.How much would Peter charge for frictionless synthetic sapphire bearings?
pro road bikes racers will change wheel bearings or wheels every stage and use baby oil in the bearings for less friction.
If the cells were manufactured consistently, matched for their initial internal resistance, capacity and voltage when they are assembled into a particular pack, then they should all age in a similar way, even if balanced at a lower voltage.
yes and thats why you get cells from a trusted supplier but not every corn flake out the machine can be trusted and why qc is very important but they can still go bad and why a decent bms will kill the pack if it sees a problem.
bosch ebike batts have a 2 year warranty or 200 charge cycles which is about right if you dont use a dongle just plodding along on the flat going 15mph same as using a flash light on low beam but you up the amps and it will use power faster and reduce charge cycles than at lower amps.
An example of a programmable BMS, this one comes with uart or BT connection.
One can monitor & set balance voltage and a few voltage parameters to one's liking.
12S 30A/40A/60A 50.4v BMS New Lithium Ion Smart PCM With Android Bluetooth compatible UART APP Software Monitor|bms pcm|pcm bmsbms li-ion - AliExpress
One can monitor & set balance voltage and a few voltage parameters to one's liking.
12S 30A/40A/60A 50.4v BMS New Lithium Ion Smart PCM With Android Bluetooth compatible UART APP Software Monitor|bms pcm|pcm bmsbms li-ion - AliExpress
dont buy any bms with Bluetooth it will drain the pack flat my bike light does this if the pack is connected even turned off as constantly searching for the remote.
My brother made one for a solar power system at university using a FPGA, but we don't talk anymore so I don't know the details:
i bet they dont get many charge cycles out of there batts 200A fkn have it
"Two Postel-Vinay 25 kW motors, each driving the rear axle via a chain, running at 200 V and drawing 124 A each"
NASA - Fuel Cell Use in the Space Shuttle
Fuel cells are used in the space shuttles as one component of the electrical power system.
www.nasa.gov
and that was the 1980s just no profit in it for mugs like us 40 years later we will have to just send sin bag down the lithium mines to get all the good stuff to make batts in 3rd world country's and dont forget all those cpus and transistors from china
China shows nuclear powered Lunar roverView attachment 49682
.NASA - Fuel Cell Use in the Space Shuttle
Fuel cells are used in the space shuttles as one component of the electrical power system.www.nasa.gov
and that was the 1980s just no profit in it for mugs like us 40 years later we will have to just send sin bag down the lithium mines to get all the good stuff to make batts in 3rd world country's and dont forget all those cpus and transistors from china
China shows nuclear powered Lunar rover
As far as we know, Doc Brown's DeLorean was the first car to be nuclear powered (and before you comment, we know it was just the Flux Capacitor that ran on plutonium).... The Chinese are planning on sending an orbiter named Chang'e-1 up there this year in preparation for a landing in 2012, eight...
Don't they ever shut off completely? Even if the battery only has a two wire connection to the bike, surely it can't be impossible for BMSs of sufficient smarts to disconnect the power being supplied by the charger, after balancing? There's more of a business case for battery manufacturers to not equip battery packs with smarter BMSs which damage battery packs less, as they'll make and sell more batteries at a lower price and more often, as they fail.
Looks like it's BYD, who are also starting to make hatchbacks with sodium-ion batteries. It'd be nice to see more standardisation of connectors at charging stations too.
Toyota to launch EVs in China with BYD blade batteries
BYD to supply key tech including its blade batteries.
BYD to launch electric hatchbacks with new Sodium-ion batteries
BYD to launch electric hatchbacks with new Sodium-ion batteries
BYD plans to launch its smallest EV hatchback with a new sodium-ion battery, helping it to dodge the soaring price of lithium.
thedriven.io
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I haven't measured the DC side, but I'm sure they are effectively shut off. The idle current measured is on the charger's AC input.
I think cost comes into it. The cheapish (£165 .62 delivered including a charger) 15Ah Yose silverfish battery that I bought in March this year is working well and hopefully of decent enough quality not to be a fire risk. It lives on one of my rear hub bikes in my attached garage and is charged there using a timer plug. I do set the plug to the maximum time it has which is 8 hours to allow for balancing. I also tend to use the bike the following day so that it does not sit there fully charged too long. But that is basically it on my battery care.
I have had a previous Yose battery that has lost some capacity but not that much and is over four years old so I am hoping this newer one will be similar. I even have the original silverfish battery that came with the rear hub bike that I bought for £100 from the clasified section of pedelec, and that still works and dates from 2011.
Less capacity of course but I did use it to ride 10 miles to work on full assist on a bike that assisted to 20mph carrying sadly over 100kg of me and two full panniers. I could charge it at work so it was full for the return trip. I guess what I am saying is if the batteries are less expensive you are less worried about how you look after them. The benefit is that the bike is ready to use without any pre ride battery charging planning.
The Yamaha battery on my Haibike is available for me to buy from the shop where I bought my bike but only the more expensive larger 500Wh battery priced at £849.99. My whole bike cost £1,750 to put that price into perspective and does not include a charger. If you needed a charger that would leave you only a couple of pence change from a thousand pounds.
As a consequence I do my best to look after my original 400Wh battery. But this really only entails bringing the battery into the house after a ride. Storing at 50+%, and only charging it back to full as close to riding the bike as possible.
At some point when I was using my bike very regularly to commute to work and having read that lithium batteries lasted longer if you charged them to around 80% rather than full, I made a few trips to work with a not quite full battery, but it would then be charged back to full at work. However Nealh pointed out that ebike batteries are different to electric car batteries and it was better to fully charge the battery each time so that the cells balanced. So I reverted to this but tried only to charge it close to when I planned to use it. This means that using the Haibike involves some forethought and planning which means it can be not available when you suddenly want to use it or conversely very occasionally has a full battery and your plans change and it does not get used. In those circumstances I take it out as soon as I can, generally the same day and ride it up and down a steep hill to take the edge of the battery.
There is none of this fluffing around with my ever available rear hub bikes.
However the Yamaha battery cared for in this way is lasting extremely well (Thank goodness) with still good capacity and working very well. I don't tend to ride less than about 20 miles and do use the higher middle assist to blast up the last steep hill home and am usually still above (just) 50% capacity left when I get home.
I meant to say that The Yamaha Battery is 7 years and 9 months old and my bikes total mileage to date is 16,774. Thank you the other useful replies, I will try and comment when I have more time.
I have had a previous Yose battery that has lost some capacity but not that much and is over four years old so I am hoping this newer one will be similar. I even have the original silverfish battery that came with the rear hub bike that I bought for £100 from the clasified section of pedelec, and that still works and dates from 2011.
Less capacity of course but I did use it to ride 10 miles to work on full assist on a bike that assisted to 20mph carrying sadly over 100kg of me and two full panniers. I could charge it at work so it was full for the return trip. I guess what I am saying is if the batteries are less expensive you are less worried about how you look after them. The benefit is that the bike is ready to use without any pre ride battery charging planning.
The Yamaha battery on my Haibike is available for me to buy from the shop where I bought my bike but only the more expensive larger 500Wh battery priced at £849.99. My whole bike cost £1,750 to put that price into perspective and does not include a charger. If you needed a charger that would leave you only a couple of pence change from a thousand pounds.
As a consequence I do my best to look after my original 400Wh battery. But this really only entails bringing the battery into the house after a ride. Storing at 50+%, and only charging it back to full as close to riding the bike as possible.
At some point when I was using my bike very regularly to commute to work and having read that lithium batteries lasted longer if you charged them to around 80% rather than full, I made a few trips to work with a not quite full battery, but it would then be charged back to full at work. However Nealh pointed out that ebike batteries are different to electric car batteries and it was better to fully charge the battery each time so that the cells balanced. So I reverted to this but tried only to charge it close to when I planned to use it. This means that using the Haibike involves some forethought and planning which means it can be not available when you suddenly want to use it or conversely very occasionally has a full battery and your plans change and it does not get used. In those circumstances I take it out as soon as I can, generally the same day and ride it up and down a steep hill to take the edge of the battery.
There is none of this fluffing around with my ever available rear hub bikes.
However the Yamaha battery cared for in this way is lasting extremely well (Thank goodness) with still good capacity and working very well. I don't tend to ride less than about 20 miles and do use the higher middle assist to blast up the last steep hill home and am usually still above (just) 50% capacity left when I get home.
I meant to say that The Yamaha Battery is 7 years and 9 months old and my bikes total mileage to date is 16,774. Thank you the other useful replies, I will try and comment when I have more time.
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The Smart BMS in #65 uses B/T as an option to plug in so one doesn't have to use it , the uart to pc option is likely one good route but the optional add on may be pretty good. It utilises a seperate plug in uart lcd screen which one can make the adjustments with and to check cell levels.
Have you considered an aftermarket compatible battery like this at £283
Battery E-bike Pedelec 13000mAh (13Ah) for Yamaha B94-20, PASB2, X94-20 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Battery E-bike Pedelec 13000mAh (13Ah) for Yamaha B94-20, PASB2, X94-20 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
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The Mini isn't the only one. All the Nissan Leaf models for more than a decade use flat cells and I believe their partner Renault also do on all the Zoe models for a decade. Many of today's electric buses too.
And most are weird shaped too. For example here's the latest Nissan Leaf floor pan, the blue battery in two parts under the seats., bridged by part which would have been a transmission tunnel on an ic car:
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It's unclear from the AliExpress listing how programmable that BMS is - could it charge my 36V battery to 39.5V, then balance in stages, in a manner similar to the description by @cyclebuddy in post #32, if paired with a programmable charger?
Battery life
Your battery comprises lithium cells and a management circuit board. The way the management board works is that it requires charging to 4.2v per cell, otherwise it doesn't work. As I said before, if you want to charge to less than 4.2v per cell, you need to change the management board to one...
www.pedelecs.co.uk
I'd find that sort of voltage useful for my 19.2ah battery, because I could set the timer to balance charge for the range I actually need - some days I may need only 12 miles in total, other times I might need 40+, in which case I'd do a full voltage balance charge.
One doesn't need to mess with many parameters , only a few programmable parameters are the necessary ones.
Balance range adjustment 3.3v - 4.2v .
Over voltage 3.6v - 4.3v.
LVC 2v - 3.3v.
Over current & temperature.
With a large battery capacity if one has the needs to carry a so much weight and range then 4 - 4.05v balance will likely suffice , with a smaller capacity battery then 4.1v will be ok. The top end 0.1v of a charge carries little mah capacity and for most ebike batteries only equates to 1- 1.5 miles in range.
A monster pack of plus 30ah one could opt for less then 4v, though it is dependant how one uses that capacity vs discharge current used.
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I do much the same as you, except if I find I'm left with a fully charged battery with no prospect of using it imminently, I'll usually burn off that energy using a string of 12v halogen lamps to get it back down to about a 38v storage level.
More recently though, it occurred to me that's useful energy being wasted. I've now bought a simple buck converter (£10-£14) to take battery voltage down to 12v, from which I've then got two 5v USB outputs (phone charging etc), 12v to power (as examples) my cool box, tyre pump, 12v heated blanket etc, and using a cheap inverter, powering my laptop and recharging my table-top radio.
It's early days and new uses keep emerging, but it's working so well I'm now fully cycling my e-bike batteries using them as power banks to power many things in my home. That keeps them active in times of low use/over the winter, and I'm guessing could prove quite useful in a power-cut!
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