bafang bpm code 10

[derf]

dear all, have you seen this http://bruceteakle.blogspot.co.uk/p/blog-page_8.html
it's (to me) a usefully hands on account of using the bpm - I've just received a code 10 BPM from BMS in a 20 wheel (I'm kind of torn between putting it in a recumbent given the that this isn't the Netherlands and so not so eccentric recumbent friendly or a bog standard mountain bike) - I gather from d8veh before that it's too weak to do hills with a 90kg bloke and panniers on - but according to Bruce its pretty slow in a 20 wheel. the options are to either risk putting it in a 26 and hope it wont overheat and have enough torque (it can take 1.5kw after all) or to up the voltage to 48 (but that means a more expensive battery). do any of you have direct experience of this or similar BPM? many thanks for your advice

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I gather from d8veh before that it's too weak to do hills with a 90kg bloke and panniers on -

I don't believe I've ever said anything like that. Which code 10 do you have: 36v or 48v, 350w or 500w?

Saneagle has a 48v code 10 at 36v. He didn't have any problem on with power/torque going up the 31% Lincoln Hill at Ironbridge. He's over 100kg. Even at 36v, his bike will do 24 mph.

I've run a 36v code 10 at 40 amps and 48v before. The torque was insane. It would wheelie up steep hills and away from the traffic lights with my 100kg on board. In the end I reduced it to 36v and 30 amps and did 3000 trouble free miles on it. I've still got it somewhere.

How much power and torque you get also depends on which controller you have. Which ones are coming with your motor?

 

[derf]

I don't believe I've ever said anything like that. Which code 10 do you have: 36v or 48v, 350w or 500w?

Saneagle has a 48v code 10 at 36v. He didn't have any problem on with power/torque going up the 31% Lincoln Hill at Ironbridge. He's over 100kg. Even at 36v, his bike will do 24 mph.

I've run a 36v code 10 at 40 amps and 48v before. The torque was insane. It would wheelie up steep hills and away from the traffic lights with my 100kg on board. In the end I reduced it to 36v and 30 amps and did 3000 trouble free miles on it. I've still got it somewhere.

How much power and torque you get also depends on which controller you have. Which ones are coming with your motor?

mine is the 36V 500W code 10, that's great news (24 mph cruising and managing 31% hills would be perfect), I'm looking at underspeccing it because I enjoy a degree of cycling and am looking for assistance rather than power alone, will check controller later (it's at home, I'm at work) and get back

 

[derf]

mine is the 36V 500W code 10, that's great news (24 mph cruising and managing 31% hills would be perfect), I'm looking at underspeccing it because I enjoy a degree of cycling and am looking for assistance rather than power alone, will check controller later (it's at home, I'm at work) and get back

here are pics with the details, dear all - two entirely noob questions - why does the throttle say 48V(will it be OK at 36?), and is there a way with this controller to get less assistance over a larger speed range (say in a torque censored way 50% assistance from zero to 24 mph) or will it be like a TCM crank drive an experience of assistance that seems completely unrelated to what pedal input and all or nothing)?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That's a KU123 controller, but is it the new type or old type? Do you have a display for it? Does it have the connector for the display? Is there a thin red wire in the battery connector along with the thicker black and red wires?

There's no such thing as a 48v throttle. They're all 5v. If a throttle has battery indicator LEDs, the LEDs have to be matched to the battery voltage, but the throttle itself is still 5v.

 

[derf]

That's a KU123 controller, but is it the new type or old type? Do you have a display for it? Does it have the connector for the display? Is there a thin red wire in the battery connector along with the thicker black and red wires?

There's no such thing as a 48v throttle. They're all 5v. If a throttle has battery indicator LEDs, the LEDs have to be matched to the battery voltage, but the throttle itself is still 5v.

afraid no display came with, and there is only the thick black and red wires (no thin red wire), thanks re throttle - it has LED's (how does one match it to battery voltage?). I don't really mind the absence of a display (except that a speedometer would be good I prefer stealthy look). many thanks for the advice, all is gradually becoming clear.

 

[wurly]

If it's any help. I have 2 code10 BPM in 26" wheels running the same tyres.
48V Ping battery (approx 54V charged) max speed is 31mph.
36V Ping battery(approx 42V charged) max speed is around 22mph i think! It's my wifes bike and i have slowed it down somewhat.
Most of the time i can't keep up pedalling so i reduce speed by combination of cruise and speed switch settings to around 17mph. I have never had a problem any hills or the BPM hub. I believe they are 5:1 ratio anyway, so in effect the motor is still turning fast. You can't go wrong they are excellent.

 

[derf]

If it's any help. I have 2 code10 BPM in 26" wheels running the same tyres.
48V Ping battery (approx 54V charged) max speed is 31mph.
36V Ping battery(approx 42V charged) max speed is around 22mph i think! It's my wifes bike and i have slowed it down somewhat.
Most of the time i can't keep up pedalling so i reduce speed by combination of cruise and speed switch settings to around 17mph. I have never had a problem any hills or the BPM hub. I believe they are 5:1 ratio anyway, so in effect the motor is still turning fast. You can't go wrong they are excellent.

many thanks - that practical info really helps, mine will go into a 26 wheel at 36 V, 22 mph will be spot on (I have no moral objections to 31 mph, but it will be seriously dodgy on the very bad potholed roads around where I live) - I'll need to finish installation to really understand what "combination of cruise and speed settings" mean in practice? I'm hoping for less overwhelming assistance (though its good to know they can reputably do thousands of miles running at 1kw)

 

[wurly]

It's full susension and I use it for off road......

 

[Deleted member 4366]

afraid no display came with, and there is only the thick black and red wires (no thin red wire), thanks re throttle - it has LED's (how does one match it to battery voltage?). I don't really mind the absence of a display (except that a speedometer would be good I prefer stealthy look). many thanks for the advice, all is gradually becoming clear.

That's the new version then, which is good and bad. It has the capability for different PAS levels, but you can't get them without the display. I've not had the new one, so I'm not sure what happens to PAS without the display.

You know that you have to short the red and blue display wires to make it work? Also, you have to choose the right voltage for your battery with the two thin red wires.

What voltage is written on the motor? I can't see from your crappy photo.

If you want to use the throttle at 36v, it'll work except that the LEDs will show a flat battery most of the time. It's not easy to change that.

 

[derf]

That's the new version then, which is good and bad. It has the capability for different PAS levels, but you can't get them without the display. I've not had the new one, so I'm not sure what happens to PAS without the display.

You know that you have to short the red and blue display wires to make it work? Also, you have to choose the right voltage for your battery with the two thin red wires.

What voltage is written on the motor? I can't see from your crappy photo.

If you want to use the throttle at 36v, it'll work except that the LEDs will show a flat battery most of the time. It's not easy to change that.

yikes, that raises several questions. it's written 36V on the motor (didn't realise pics were so fuzzy, apologies). I still have to figure out which wires are the display wires. shorting them wouldn't be a problem - but getting different PAS levels sounds great - but which display would one get, and would one simply connect it to the display wires? the throttle I guess would be necessary to overcome issues with the speed sensor not giving immediate assistance (otherwise a throttle free life would be great and simple)? many thanks for advice

 

[derf]

It's full susension and I use it for off road......

off-road at 31mph would create even more interesting scenarios around here (I'm trawling around ebay for a cheap full suspension steel framed job)

 

[Deleted member 4366]

yikes, that raises several questions. it's written 36V on the motor (didn't realise pics were so fuzzy, apologies). I still have to figure out which wires are the display wires. shorting them wouldn't be a problem - but getting different PAS levels sounds great - but which display would one get, and would one simply connect it to the display wires? the throttle I guess would be necessary to overcome issues with the speed sensor not giving immediate assistance (otherwise a throttle free life would be great and simple)? many thanks for advice

You need to check with BMSB which panels work with it. The wiring diagram that you can find under the "download" tab, mentions a LED panel.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/364-universal-brushless-hub-motor-controller.html

The PAS on the old one was absolutely useless. It had the daftest cadence related algorithm in the world. The fast you pedalled, the more power you get, which sounds sort of logical until you try it. Other controllers with LED panels default to level 1 or three if you bypass the panel. Hopefully, your does the same. The LED panels normally give 1v, 2v, 3v and 4v on the green wire. The first three are for the three PAS levels and the 4v gives fixed 6km/h.

The three-speed switch is interesting because it can boost the speed above what is normally possible by changing the timing. You connect the middle (black) wire to one side for the boost and the other side for 15mph limit. The boost only works with hall sensors connected.

You can use the cruise wires to select your level of PAS as long as you have brake cut-offs. Don't try it without them. Put a momentary switch between the two wires. when you touch the switch the cruise is engaged. When you touch it again, blip the throttle or apply the brakes, it disengages. Don't leave the wires connected or else it'll start cruising when you don't expect it - normally at full throttle.

 

[derf]

You need to check with BMSB which panels work with it. The wiring diagram that you can find under the "download" tab, mentions a LED panel.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/364-universal-brushless-hub-motor-controller.html

The PAS on the old one was absolutely useless. It had the daftest cadence related algorithm in the world. The fast you pedalled, the more power you get, which sounds sort of logical until you try it. Other controllers with LED panels default to level 1 or three if you bypass the panel. Hopefully, your does the same. The LED panels normally give 1v, 2v, 3v and 4v on the green wire. The first three are for the three PAS levels and the 4v gives fixed 6km/h.

The three-speed switch is interesting because it can boost the speed above what is normally possible by changing the timing. You connect the middle (black) wire to one side for the boost and the other side for 15mph limit. The boost only works with hall sensors connected.

You can use the cruise wires to select your level of PAS as long as you have brake cut-offs. Don't try it without them. Put a momentary switch between the two wires. when you touch the switch the cruise is engaged. When you touch it again, blip the throttle or apply the brakes, it disengages. Don't leave the wires connected or else it'll start cruising when you don't expect it - normally at full throttle.

many thanks, that wiring diagram is a real find (for me), it clarifies everything (or what to connect everything to) and its simple. but there isn't any indication of which LED panel. I've emailed BMS who will hopefully advise. Next step is to build it all and then test the other stuff (three speed switch, cruise wires, assistance levels with or without LED). I gather in another thread there is an "S" controller that gives better control over assistance, do you know where one might get it?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I gather in another thread there is an "S" controller that gives better control over assistance, do you know where one might get it?

BMSBattery. It would have been a lot cheaper if you'd bought it with your kit!
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/552-s06-250w-imitation-torque-square-wave-controller.html

You have to order the LCD1 or LCD3 separately. You also need to order the wheel-speed sensor, and while you're there get a spoke key and a pair of torque arms if you haven't already got them.

 

[derf]

BMSBattery. It would have been a lot cheaper if you'd bought it with your kit!
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/552-s06-250w-imitation-torque-square-wave-controller.html

You have to order the LCD1 or LCD3 separately. You also need to order the wheel-speed sensor, and while you're there get a spoke key and a pair of torque arms if you haven't already got them.

many thanks, happily BMS have messed up the order a bit and is sending some stuff they didn't include...many thanks for all the advice, I'm going to build it, test it and take it from there