Absolute newbie to e-bikes!!

[bearfacedclaire]

Help!

I am getting totally overwhelmed with all the information!

Live and work North East London, I am looking for something to use mainly roads and tracks (I.e. towpath) for work and leisure. Starting a new job in September and wont be able to drive much. I am 5'8'' and relatively heavy. I was considering a fold up as I have a tiny flat, but I am not definite on that as they have put in bike containers at the end of the road. It may be nice to take it to the coast and to ride with my Mum so fold up may fit in the boot of my also tiny car.

My main reason for getting an ebike is that I am not the most confident of cyclists on the road as I worry about getting started at lights etc and wobbling around! also bit scared of people laughing at me if I cant get going- I am not that fit and have chronic fatigue. I also feel sick as a dog on buses

Thinking a bit of electric power and fresh air might help! Any advice and starting point for must haves? What do I need to ask for to get help with starting off from standstill.

I have been looking at these. (these are in local shops so can test ride and for maintenance)

Wisper 806 Torque
Rayleigh Forge
A2B Kuo+
Volt Metro
Volt Burlington

I don't have a massive budget- I might be able to use the Cycle to Work scheme???

or maybe second hand to start with

https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/recently-built-all-new-custom-built-shimano-electric-bike-reduced-quick-sale/1184531291

Thanks!!!!!!!

 

[Angelnorth]

Hello, welcome!

To get power as soon as you press down on the pedal (which will be the best help to get you going from a standstill) you're best off with a torque sensor. A cadence sensor needs maybe as much as half a rotation of the pedals before you get any assistance from the motor. Obviously the Wisper Torque you've got on your shortlist has that type of sensor but I'm not sure about the others - the specifications for each will tell you.

You've got both hub and crank drives on your shortlist which is another difference in how things work and how the ride feels.

I think your best bet is going to be to go into an electric bike shop or two, talk it through with them and then try a few bikes. Tell them how you want to use it, what kind of terrain you'll use it on (mostly flat, lots of hills, strong headwinds etc etc). You're right to pick up the importance of having some local back up from a shop so you can get maintenance done and get some help if you have any niggles with the bike.

Lots of people use a cycle to work scheme to buy their ebike - just check with your workplace for a list of eligible shops and what limits there are etc.

Good luck finding something to suit!

 

[bearfacedclaire]

Hello, welcome!

To get power as soon as you press down on the pedal (which will be the best help to get you going from a standstill) you're best off with a torque sensor. A cadence sensor needs maybe as much as half a rotation of the pedals before you get any assistance from the motor. Obviously the Wisper Torque you've got on your shortlist has that type of sensor but I'm not sure about the others - the specifications for each will tell you.

You've got both hub and crank drives on your shortlist which is another difference in how things work and how the ride feels.

I think your best bet is going to be to go into an electric bike shop or two, talk it through with them and then try a few bikes. Tell them how you want to use it, what kind of terrain you'll use it on (mostly flat, lots of hills, strong headwinds etc etc). You're right to pick up the importance of having some local back up from a shop so you can get maintenance done and get some help if you have any niggles with the bike.

Lots of people use a cycle to work scheme to buy their ebike - just check with your workplace for a list of eligible shops and what limits there are etc.

Good luck finding something to suit!

Thanks! Which is better hub or crank drive?! I'm not sure I know the difference

 

[Artstu]

I'd go full size bike and crank drive, but a hub drive will probably be better at your budget point.
Bike containers, how does that work and have you a photo?

 

[bearfacedclaire]

http://www.cyclehoop.rentals/
The Lambeth Bikehangar

You can rent for £30 per year- get a key etc. Its covered and more secure.

 

[Angelnorth]

Thanks! Which is better hub or crank drive?! I'm not sure I know the difference

A hub drive has the motor in one of the wheels (you get both rear and front wheel hub drives - another difference to contend with, I'm afraid!). A crank drive has a central motor - look for bulk around where the pedals go through the frame to identify a crank drive. They also go by the name "mid drive". I was thinking the Raleigh Forge was a crank drive but I might be wrong. They tend to be more expensive than hub drive bikes.

I don't think there's necessarily a "better" per se - there's what's good for your use. What suits you and your riding style won't necessarily suit the next person. That's why I think it's important to test ride a few.

 

[Angelnorth]

http://www.cyclehoop.rentals/
The Lambeth Bikehangar

You can rent for £30 per year- get a key etc. Its covered and more secure.

Seems like a good idea - much easier than trying to manhandle any sort of bike into a flat!

 

[trex]

if you need a small fold up bike, the woosh Gallego will fold small enough to go under a desk. There is a weight limit though, about 15 stone.

 

[Trevormonty]

Seems like a good idea - much easier than trying to manhandle any sort of bike into a flat!

Make sure battery is easy removable, so you can charge it at home.

For easy starting at lights either throttle (mostly hub drive) or crank/midrive with internal geared hub ( allows you to change gears while stationary). Unfortunately most bikes use derailleur gears which require you shift down while pedalling, not great for stop start riding as more often than not you will end up in to high a gear at lights. Even as experience rider I find sometimes there is just not enough time to change down before stopping.

Some of more higher priced mid drives with hub gears are totalling automatic, just like auto cars, no gear changing required by rider.

 

[bearfacedclaire]

Make sure battery is easy removable, so you can charge it at home.

For easy starting at lights either throttle (mostly hub drive) or crank/midrive with internal geared hub ( allows you to change gears while stationary). Unfortunately most bikes use derailleur gears which require you shift down while pedalling, not great for stop start riding as more often than not you will end up in to high a gear at lights. Even as experience rider I find sometimes there is just not enough time to change down before stopping.

Some of more higher priced mid drives with hub gears are totalling automatic, just like auto cars, no gear changing required by rider.

Thanks! The gear changing situations sounds tricky- I am not sure changing down will be that practical all the time in London traffic/ traffic lights etc. If you don't get down the gears does it not offer any assistance when starting?

Do you have any examples of bikes that are automatic are you describe?

 

[Trevormonty]

Thanks! The gear changing situations sounds tricky- I am not sure changing down will be that practical all the time in London traffic/ traffic lights etc. If you don't get down the gears does it not offer any assistance when starting?

Do you have any examples of bikes that are automatic are you describe?

Try googling Shimano STEPS (middrive system) with Di2 (electric hub gears).
Middrive even in wrong gear will still help you get rolling. For price hub drive with throttle will most likely be cheaper and better in this situation.

Best thing to do is test ride bikes.

ElectricBikereview.com is great place for info.

 

[D8ve]

The differences between hub and mid drive are not to significant with the U.K. Legal position. A rear gear hub is great for stop start cycling.
On cost grounds a front motor with rear hub gears is where I would suggest you start looking.
But the most important thing is to start test riding bikes. Once you have done a few you will know what suits best.

 

[Angelnorth]

Middrive even in wrong gear will still help you get rolling.

As will a hub drive with a torque sensor - it's the pressure on the pedals that makes the assistance kick in so even if you find yourself in too high a gear you can crank up the assistance level and get a bit extra oomph for setting off.

The gears on an ebike work exactly the same way as they do on a regular bike, Claire. Lower gear is easier to start pedalling so is ideal from a standing start but you'll soon "out pedal" it as you pick up speed so you'd change up then. Using the gears and pedal assistance levels together is a knack I think you soon develop.

That Gumtree bike you linked to has some things you'd need to be aware of if you were tempted by it, by the way. The biggest is that from the top speeds he's quoting it looks like it's derestricted (a motor can only assist you up to 15.4mph under UK law - for the speeds he's quoting it would need registration, insurance etc to be legal). It may be possible to set the software so it is restricted for UK road use - as it's a self-build you'd have to ask the seller, I guess. The other thing that struck me is that the battery position makes the wheel base a bit longer so it will probably be a bit less nimble round corners which may not be ideal if you're not feeling confident.

 

[bearfacedclaire]

As will a hub drive with a torque sensor - it's the pressure on the pedals that makes the assistance kick in so even if you find yourself in too high a gear you can crank up the assistance level and get a bit extra oomph for setting off.

The gears on an ebike work exactly the same way as they do on a regular bike, Claire. Lower gear is easier to start pedalling so is ideal from a standing start but you'll soon "out pedal" it as you pick up speed so you'd change up then. Using the gears and pedal assistance levels together is a knack I think you soon develop.

That Gumtree bike you linked to has some things you'd need to be aware of if you were tempted by it, by the way. The biggest is that from the top speeds he's quoting it looks like it's derestricted (a motor can only assist you up to 15.4mph under UK law - for the speeds he's quoting it would need registration, insurance etc to be legal). It may be possible to set the software so it is restricted for UK road use - as it's a self-build you'd have to ask the seller, I guess. The other thing that struck me is that the battery position makes the wheel base a bit longer so it will probably be a bit less nimble round corners which may not be ideal if you're not feeling confident.

Thanks so much! I think I am going to go for one of the new bikes through a dealership relatively close by as think I would feel better with the support they can offer etc

 

[Tomtomato]

http://www.cyclehoop.rentals/
The Lambeth Bikehangar

You can rent for £30 per year- get a key etc. Its covered and more secure.

Sounds great. However, if it's storing only 6 bikes, and only costs £30 per year to the user (which is very cheap, and also probably does not cover at all the cost of the equipment and its maintenance), I suspect all of those will be full very quickly, with long waiting lists.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Hello, welcome!

To get power as soon as you press down on the pedal (which will be the best help to get you going from a standstill) you're best off with a torque sensor.

I don't want to sound unkind, but I believe that that's not good advice. OP needs a bike that can provide power regardless of her capability to provide pedal effort, in which case any bike with a throttle and a cadence sensor would be much better. I think a torque sensor bike would be a disaster. I know fully able people that can't get up steep hills on them, so someone with CFS has got no chance.

The bikes with a cadence sensor give a range of powers independent of the rider's effort, which is what somebody with CFS needs.

It's becoming harder to find a bike with a normal full-range throttle, but you can still get them. Some have a 6km/hr throttle, which can be swapped over to normal operation by a simple setting, though a 6km/h one would be enough to get you started. It's not illegal to use a full-range throttle in the UK.

Folding bikes are not what you think. Unless you're strong and have big arms, folding takes a lot of effort, and then they're pretty heavy, which makes them awkward to carry. They do have one advantage though. You can drop down the handlebars and fold the pedals, so they don't take up much room in a small flat or hall-way.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

FFS guys, read what she wrote. I've never seen such a load of bad advice for a newcomer.

Important points:

She doesn't have a massive budget, so why are you confusing her with expensive options?

She suffers from chronic fatigue syndrome, so most torque sensor systems would leave her stranded.

My advice: Any cheap small-wheeled, 36v hub-motored bike will suit you well, especially if you're less than 75kg. Small wheels usually mean that the motor can deal with hills better. Relatively heavy means different things to different people. I'd say that by the time someone reaches 100kg, they need a high-torque motor.

Being in the right gear doesn't matter when you have a hub-motor and throttle. You can pull away in any gear without pedalling using the throttle, and then sort out your pedalling and gears later. That will be much better for someone that's not used to changing gears on a bicycle.

 

[Angelnorth]

I don't want to sound unkind, but I believe that that's not good advice. OP needs a bike that can provide power regardless of her capability to provide pedal effort, in which case any bike with a throttle and a cadence sensor would be much better.

That's a good point. CFS affects people differently and Claire may well find it easier to adapt to using the throttle to get going rather than pedal power - it may not feel 'natural' if you've been used to riding a bike previously but you'd probably get used to it very quickly.

 

[bearfacedclaire]

Sounds great. However, if it's storing only 6 bikes, and only costs £30 per year to the user (which is very cheap, and also probably does not cover at all the cost of the equipment and its maintenance), I suspect all of those will be full very quickly, with long waiting lists.

Yes it is heavily subsidised by the council as they want to get people cycling- there is a long waiting list hence looking at a fold up bike potentially also.

 

[bearfacedclaire]

Thanks all,

It is hard I know to give advice to a stranger! For me my CFS tends to come in spells- more and less energy and expending a large amount of energy can really knock me back for days. As such I wanted to get something I can rely on that will help me on the good and also the not so good days! I am lucky I can function relatively well and still work full time As a result of illnesses my fitness isn't great and this is where the lack of confidence on hills and difficult starts come in- no one wants to see me huffing and puffing or wobbling off at traffic lights!!!!

I would like additional help to set off and also a bike that I can peddle but will give me assistance as I don't want to exhaust myself and then have a really bad lapse. I guess from what I am seeing a throttle and a Torque would be the ideal.. does this even exist?!!

Any examples of throttle type I can have a look at- price range no more than £1500

The ability to fold some bits down for my tiny flat does sound appealing and not sure I will get a space in the bikehangar. One question- is there are issue with chaining/locking up a folding bike outside? are they are secure?