I'm upgrading to a 9 fet controller as my 6 get keeps overheating, it's 500w 25a. I think this may be a bit much for my geared hub although it is a larger one, I fancy an upgrade to a 500w hub with a bit more poke, but my dropouts are 160mm, all I can find are 135mm or 170mm (fatbike) hubs. Can I adapt my bike to either of these?
500w hub motor for 160mm dropouts?
- Thread starter anon4
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The 170mm F/B one will be the kiddie to use, your rear stays if ali will spread the extra 10mm needed. Either use a small jack between the stays and carefully spread them or do it D8veh/Vfr style and use 4 x 2 and wedges to spread them, ali may spring back a little so you may have to spread them a little wider to get the 170mm.
Fwiw I am using the same 25a Kt with my Yose hub without issue though don't need the full 25a much, though soon will drop the current as I have just about finished a 13s/7p PF pack all bar the shrink wrap.
Fwiw I am using the same 25a Kt with my Yose hub without issue though don't need the full 25a much, though soon will drop the current as I have just about finished a 13s/7p PF pack all bar the shrink wrap.
I have been able to muscle a hub in that way before and was thinking about that. Would you recommend a torque arm with this setup?
Yes you will still need a T/A esp as you want to step up to 500w, there will be extra toque/power. D8veh did the Xiongda went from 135 to 150mm to fit it in.
Ok, not sure what to get, the bafang geared hubs seem good, but I'd have to lace it myself. Direct drives are harder to find unless you want 1000w+ which would drain my battery a bit faster than I'd like
I have a fat kit that may do.
Motor is Bafang G06 code 10, can be supplied unlaced. You can run it with 36V for torque, 48V for speed.
http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits#fatkit
Motor is Bafang G06 code 10, can be supplied unlaced. You can run it with 36V for torque, 48V for speed.
http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits#fatkit
Was just after a hub by itself tbh. Besides just been testing, whoah the acceleration! Maintains its top speed better and the motor stayed cool under heavy load up a hill throttle only. I think I'll be fine with this hub for now
I have yet to blow a KT controller, the easiest way is by cross polarity.
They (or the 6 fet) ones do suffer from heat/thermal cut outs if you like to climb a lot at slow speed. The 9 fet are bigger but more reliable.
They (or the 6 fet) ones do suffer from heat/thermal cut outs if you like to climb a lot at slow speed. The 9 fet are bigger but more reliable.
I had 2 6 fet ones and they just suck. First one blew up from a standstill eventually, second still technically works but cuts if you run at full amps regardless of its temperature. The 9 fet was a pleasure while my motor worked, I found continuity in the hall wires so I'm scared the halls themselves are fried since it won't work
My commute/errand bike I use a 6 fet without issue but with little in the way of inclines, it is run at optimal speed or above so doesn't get warm. That said sometimes when going to the bee's, I do have one small incline when towing my trailer and have had no controller issue but only use PAS 2 (or PAS 3 if I have to) as anything above the 29E's don't like now. Though can't complain as still getting 30 miles from them 5 years on.
Yeah they are fine at that setting only happens on max assist, like I said can be remedied by lowering the current. Tbh I only think they can do 20a in 36v mode 48v is just too much for a 6 fet at high current