1000w hub motor

[tommyh7]

Hi all got bike the other day with fault the back wheel spun out ripped the cables out manged to solder them back on all connected light turns on but no power to back wheel so switched the battery off came back the next day switched battery back on and it worked i said to my self great all working again switched it off put back on same issue not working has anyone came across this issue Thanks

 

[Nealh]

You will have to try and fault diagnose and carry out testing with meter.

1. How is motor power activated ?
2. Test battery out put voltage.
3. Do the same on the wiring to the display.

4, 5 & 6 later when we have answers to the first 3.

 

[tommyh7]

Hi Nealh just one of those cheap ones pic attached tested the battery all good no display just press the button on the throttle all lights up full charged showing output 54volts no issue with the battery all ready tested it on another bike i thought might be throttle issue as that is the ignition key but all lights up as i said but when i switch of the battery as i said in my first post tested it next day motor was running then swithched it off again then on nothing i think might be the controller?

 

[Nealh]

4. Test the throttle, check for 5v between Gnd & 5v at the controller connection (if it has block/Sm connectors go up the back of the block (use a pair of needles/pins if needed to get a good contact), then check you have about 1v between Gnd & signal with the throttle open.

 

[tommyh7]

OK give a go Tomorrow i will get back to you Thanks

 

[tommyh7]

meant to say when it was working yesterday i noticed when i realised the throttle the wheel was still going not fast probably about 2 to 3 mph if that helps

 

[tommyh7]

just tested the throttle all good got to be the controller what do you think

 

[Nealh]

5. Test the mosfets low and high side for failure with your meter set to ohms/resistance mode 20 or 200ohms.
Disconnect the battery and if you wish discharge the in rush capacitor by shorting the controller supply wires together, don't worry about the spark as no damage will occur.
Measure the three phases to the Gnd/ Black controller supply wire for three results, all three will be much the same somewhere in the 7- 15 ohm range.
Next test the high side of the fet's do the dame test but to the Red/V+ supply wire, again the three results should be similar to each other but not the same as the first test. 1 or a rising numerical count is good if any read zero then the fet is bad.