Search results

I have powered up the lcd from the controller with an aux supply end and that's fine and cannot see any damage on any of the cables.

No they were all on the same scale, my multimeter has one setting for ohms but you can change range, I left it on what it was when I turned it to ohms, then tested them all on the same setting. Its my Granddaughter's bike, it started shortly after she had an accident and went over the handlebars...

I have just carried out the test, I had to use the pins in the plug to the motor, as the cables are all sealed, two connections gave me 3.35 on both positive & negative, the third connection was 0.5, so does that make the one circuit u/s and the controller needs replacing ?

Thank you, I will let you know what I find.

so much of a spark that it melts the actual prongs between the battery and the holder, the battery doesn't switch off, what is the MOSFEST test ? Just looked at what a Mosfest is and it looks like it is part of the controller ?

when you plug the battery in there is a massive arc on the positive cable, which without anything plugged in, cable to drive wheel, display and pedal assist sensor it still does it, when the battery is in position there is no feed to the display, I have checked the display with an aux supply and...

the controller is faulty on my ebike, its a Halfords Carrera with the SR Suntour system, the rear drive wheel is fine as is the display, I know I will have to buty a controller and display together, but its a minefield of which to choose from, want a decent one not from China, any suggestions...

the lug on the left side that goes into the battery, was arcing when putting the battery in.

I have a Carrera Vulcan E bike, the display went blank and wouldn't do anything, the battery was removed and when I put it back in the end connection was arcing quite badly, I have checked all the cables and disconnected the cable to the rear wheel but still does the same, any suggestions ?