Search results

Using higher power most of the time by dongling to higher speeds will shorten life. Interesting to hear real world experiences. Most bikes I know do a few hundred miles a year, so hardly matters. The odd one is on a couple of thousand a year, so will still see 8 years or more. Mine is...

There is a standard range of voltage that is interpreted as throttle input. Something like 1V to 4V. 5V is an out of range error. Diode will drop enough voltage to look like full throttle.

If under warranty then you are stuck with Halfords for now. You could try the 'reject' legal tactic, as clearly not fit for purpose, but might not be quick. If no longer under warranty, I would gently bend the contacts in the battery mount to force higher contact pressure. Easy if they are...

Your commute needs nothing special, anything will do. What leisure riding do you plan? The Fazua is a weak assist for riders who want to work quite hard. The Shimano is third generation, so should have learned from the E8000 issues when used hard off-road. My E5000 is approaching 20,000 mostly...

Bike in what seems to be a shared hallway, and so a shared escape route. Shouldn't be there. People who died are not necessarily the bike owners.

Would be useful to know what the old bikes are as a basis for comparison.

Bare wires and high current connections made just by twisting wires together, and all not insulated. At a guess, two bare wires touched and something got damaged. I would do the hall sensor and MOSFET tests to eliminate most common damage, then fix the wiring properly, then retest.

My favourite yellow wellies are less than the sale prices even at full price!

Don't. Unless the wheel is in the frame you will destroy the motor cable.

One bar down means anything from only just one down to nearly two down, and two down is from just two to nearly three. So they could be very close together! 5000km should not have taken more than about 10% off your battery range unless it has been ridden hard and to flat throughout. My two...

I think you are telling us what the display tells you, not actual ranges you have ridden and measured. If that is so, then it is probably just down to manufacturer specific software tweaks. Go ride the bikes on the same route, at the same speed and see what actually happens.

I will send him away with all this info. Thanks.

...asking for a friend, defunct battery after lengthy lack of use, don't know model of bike yet as it is 300 miles away...

My art is exceptionally hard to live with!

Front end geometry will be hard to live with. The steering axis needs to point at the tyre/road contact patch, otherwise there will be severe bump steer and other unpredictable unintended steering inputs. That needs a significantly non-vertical axis in the front view, and usually slightly...

Impressive result, and a build thread that should ease the self-doubt of first timers. Well done!

Because people don't take responsibility, they take advantage! I'm all for minimum necessary level, but I don't want to go back to no seatbelts.

For a perfect fit I would either make from scratch by hand, or limit CNC to the axle hole. Then drill the 5mm holes with the part in situ.

Might just be tolerances in a mass produced thing. But always worth erring on the side of caution with a relatively complicated bunch of cells in an ebike battery.

If you were sufficiently worried/curious, you could open up the battery and check balance. I have the same symptom on a much smaller and simpler scale with GoPro batteries. The yellow led is sometimes reluctant to go green, but disconnect/reconnect and green it is.