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Many, including myself, have used Topbikekit. Here is the 9 mosfet controller referred to earlier in the thread. https://www.topbikekit.com/t09s-36v48v500w-22a-kt-sine-wave-controller-for-ebike-p-734.html?zenid=vnh7d134fd328igof37reu9j67 It has the block connectors as recommended. It is sine...

'Sfunny how memory plays tricks ain't it? Having just looked it up, my Ezee kit was first put on a bike mid to late 2015 and that was a different bike to the current one. So, all in all I'm starting to think it's time for a new kit (can use the same batteries), maybe a new bike if I can find...

Yes, I think I did - thanks.

Fortunately my bike looks nothing like any of those pictured in the pdf. It's good to see that officers are being made aware of the 2016 law change, now I've got to go and find the 2014 receipt for my bike and the kit. My remaining concern is that the Ezee motor has no markings on it at all.

Quick shakedown ride to the village shop (bacon sarnies for lunch). Brake switch cuts the motor just before the brake bite point, phew 'cos there's no adjustment. Initially brake lever feel was very hard but the new pads seem to be bedding in nicely. Changer works a dream, indexing is fine...

How about two part resin putty? Make your own adhesive balls.

Finally got all the parts in one place. First off a picture of where I'd ended up with the old changer. I'd moved it to be upside down on the bars to be easier on my thumb. It sort of worked but was a bit cag handed. The bars are a bit less cluttered now I've fitted the combined...

And it's this that is starting to concern me. 1 My trusty Ezee motor is unmarked. 2 On the stand it registers a maximum speed of 19mph without a cutoff (though this is with an uncalibrated cycle computer as it only has a led display). 3 It has a full acting throttle (only for hill starts...

I've had to order some hydraulic fluid and some pads. I think I can see a way of using a switch stripped out of the original brake. I'll mock it up with some blu tack to prove, then use some resin putty to set it in place. I'll take some photos as I go.

You will need to buy a controller and display as a pair to ensure they communicate. This KT one from Topbikekit is dual voltage so you could go to 48v when your battery dies later on...

Got the changers, the front one seems fully operable. Just ordered a new inner gear cable. Need to get a hydraulic brake switch so went straight to Topbikekit. Theirs seem to be a 2 wire, think it's a N.C. The existing Ezee one on the bike is a 3 pin. I don't know if it's N.C. , N.O. or needs...

It was the Shimano Cues system the guy was showing me. I could see that the ratio difference was quite wide and i don't fancy spending out on new cassette, deraileur and chain wheel just to lose a left side changer.

Maybe I have weak legs or something. Although I've been a cyclist all my life I've never been a strong one. I used to get left behind by my mates as a kid. When I moved to Wales in 2000 I stopped cycling 'cos I just couldn't handle the hills. Then I converted my bike in 2014 and haven't...

Sine wave will be smoother and quieter. With KT you can alter the maximum current in the settings. However the maximum current is only applied in highest assist setting. So limiting it to 17A @ 36v will be give you 720W on top setting but still be less than the maximum amperage of the...

So I've ordered a shimano combined brake and gear lever, seems the best solution for my usage. Was in Birmingham over the weekend, popped into a bike shop for a chat. Very knowledgeable bloke, ex rally engineer. Spoke a lot about gearing. He also was talking about going 10 speed - I see the...

I have 48/38/28 front and 11-32 8speed rear. It serves me very well. Did a ride yesterday where I took a 'I wonder where that goes?' local lane. It ended with a very steep, long climb. Despite being in gears 1 and 1, I was down to 5mph and had to stop to give my lungs, legs and controller a...

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Thanks for the offer Raboa but I think that's pretty much the type I have. Going down to smaller cogs is not a problem as this is just spring release. However going from 1-2 or 2-3 is where the pain occurs, as this is using the thumb to press against the sprimg tension to move the derailleur...

I don't know, it's hard to tell from photos. What i need is a shifter that doesn't need me to to push heavily with my thumb, that's what's causing the pain.

Ok. For clarity it's the left shifter I'm concerned with. That's a 3 speed for thr front deraileur, which I need around here 'cos there are some wicked hills. Just been out on some trying out the repositioning of the trigger shift I was trying. Was better but still caught me a few times...