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WOW !! amazing setup . . but I wouldn't want to go anywhere near a 48 volt battery and start soldering, which is why I took the easy route and just used a Y-shaped plug-in connector into the front-light wiring loom. Good luck with all of those lights and indicators if you do connect in :) Maybe...

I agree about your Current Bank Account (and mine) but if the current draw is so low it is well within the tolerances of the output from the Contoller, so if it's useful to you I would leave it connected as I plan to do with mine, despite some cautionary warnings, as the overall current draw of...

If you've been doing it for three years, and have gotten away with it, then it's probably well within the tolerances of the circuit-designer's original circuit diagrams and specifiactions for components :) I feel the rear light draws so much less than the front, that it won't (hopefully) become...

Yep, I'm puzzled as well, as I didn't think that a 12 volt LED rear light would even work from a 6 volt supply

Hiya . . I don't know the total circuit draw and it's not in any manual I have, but considering the front light is very bright and the rear is nowhere-near-as-bright, and that any circuit / engine / whatever is always created to allow for tolerances, I feel quite content in using this...

Yep, checked with a Mulimeter and it was 12 Volts, before ordering the new rear light off eBay :)

The original rear light was such as faff, and the new rear light is low powered, and the Factory have adopted my idea, so I'm hoping all will work out ok. It's a damn sight more efficient anyway :cool:

I did consider the Contoller, but it's so difficult to get at on mine, and I would still have to remove the motor, so when that Y-splice worked ok when I tested it at the front with a low-powered 12 Volf rear light, I just figured the easiest way was to drop a wire down the frame to connect up...

I think because the rear LED is very low-powered, compared to the bright front light, that I can get away with it, and I don't think the Factory would adopt the idea unless they had checked with Bafang first :)

Hi from another Trevor . . I live in the hilly City of Bristol and have installed many kits for myself and friends from UK-based - Cyclotricity - as -▶ CLICK HERE

Hi folks . . I did a search and couldn't find any references, but I have a Bafang Mid-drive M510 motor, and the controller only supplies 12 Volt power to the front light on my - MarioBike Bird - and I've been irritated ever since it arrived, as my rear lamp is a separate (and fiddly) item which...

Thanks, we will do that

Thanks . . I will tell him that, and I'm sure he wil be very appreciative . . Thanks

Hi Roger . . I know this is an old post, but just wondered if you had succeeded in getting a replacement battery, as a colleague of mine is looking for a battery and a charger for his EZEE Sprint, as I posted here ▶ https://www.facebook.com/groups/bristolelec/posts/3521599898078657/

This is the item / socket that @saneagle was recommending

Hi SparkyB . . I used a screwdiver and hammer to remove it, by tapping on the outer circumference, but obviously didn't do it up quite tight enough when I reassembled, hence the clicking noise coming back after a while. So I took it into my local bike shop, where they put a proper sized socket...

Hi . . I didn't need to replace the gasket, as I opened it carefully, and the gasket was fine I just carefully removed all of the bolts, and then used a screwdriver and hammer to gently separate the main cover, as shown in this video -

<No Name> Rear Cassette replaced when it happened very early on with a stronger Shimano gear cassette, so no problems with broken teeth in the last 800 miles, thank goodness, despite the harsh gear changes which still happen under power, for example when climbing an incline when you don't wish...

I really don't think it's possible on the beast which I have without extensive work, and maybe that early Bafang motor doesn't have the option, so I've learned to live with it, and just enjoy riding it within its limitations . . and at last . . No Noise from the motor

Yep . . very weird indeed . . we have looked at all of the cables and plugs and nothing there to connect to I think because the eBike was a prototype, and it was an early Bafang motor, they didn't consider those options. At least the noise has gone, so I can enjoy riding again