Search results for query: hub motor vs crank

Why did you replace the sensor? Is the cable OK on the other one? If so, you can swap them over. IIRC, there's a connector at the sensor end that burried in rubber sealant.

Hi Saneagle Thank you,i have replaced display, ecu, crank sensor and rear motor,am getting 41.3v out of 36v battery so only thing it could be is this cable i think.Would have to cut possible bad bit out and reconnect.Is there an easy way of re-connecting cables back together Thank yo Ian

It's almost certainly a cable connection issue. It might even be that the cable has been pulled at the sensor, so one of them has broken its connection. The sensor itself is optical, so nothing can go wrong with it, other than after a lot of use in dirty conditions, the dirt can stop it seeing...

Hi all I took my carrera vengeance e spec bike into an independent bike shop recently after losing faith in Halfords after countless visits.Anyway i was told the problem was an intermittent crank sensor.I'm not getting pedal assist but when i turn bike upside down and turn pedals i can hear rear...

Must have been badly out of fettle. Those old two strokes should just start straight away. Of course there are lots of issues in worn, and neglected 2 stroke engines. Bad petrol, coked up spark plug, wrong spark gap, wrong points gap, dirty points, duff condenser in points, bad ht lead, low...

I don't trust waterproofing claims made about anything. I've left my Bafang BBS01B mid-drive conversion standing in rain on it's kickstand for hours many times while out gardening, I've also cycled in sustained heavy rain for hours and 43 miles, my motor has also survived complete submersion...

Not me. I avoid rain if I can help it. Battery to motor cable requires some waterproofing, but rest is not necessary. You can do it of course if you want to. I was considering using threadlocker, but Seneagle said to whack spanner few times with a hammer, so I did just that.

Had anyone done anything to help prevent water ingress particularly with the cable from the battery to the motor? Heat shrink, dielectric grease, silicone sealant? My kit arrived yesterday and I have different connectors on the battery and motor which means two cable joins to weatherproof...

It's probably just the difference between a crank-drive bike and a hub-motor one. The hub-motor makes good power in the mid-range and gives fairly constant torque. The crank-drive makes the most power at abot 75% of it's max rpm, which for a Bosch is something like 80 rpm, which is a bit faster...

I have had the NCM Paris for a year and it did not go well initially .After 4 months the power delivery was intermittent . Despite Emails and phone messages left with the Supplier LEON CYCLE UK , they never came back to me . I did contact their only Dealer in the UK at Torquay who was very...

All good points guys, and taken onboard. I'm about halfway through the build now. The (250W) motor is on. The (48v 20Ah) battery plate is on, with a Grin Double Bob. The gear and speed sensors are installed. But I hit a (face palm) snag. I broke the derailleur!:( In my haste, threaded it...

Thanks that is very helpful

There isn't a ready-made solution. That bike would need special stuff, experience and knowledge to convert. It could be done. You can see examples on YouTube and various forums, all of which are probably illegal in UK. It has a very wide bottom bracket (165mm), which is probably too wide for a...

Telford looks nice and what cracking weather. I cycled through Telford 12 years ago on my LeJog trip - the city planners have been busy since then. The other guy's bike looks to be a proprietary system given the in-frame battery and so the crank drive motor is something like a...

OK, for those that think hub-motors don't climb, you can see how quickly I reeled in some guy on a crank-drive bike up a steep hill. That part of the path is very steep. Te rest of it up to the top, where you can see the kids playground is steep enough for an average guy to need an ebike to get...

You need to think about where you're going to fit the battery. The best place is low and central. The Paratrooper can't really do that. Yes it can be done, but wouldn't it be better to have it nicer if you can. Donor bikes are really cheap considering the cost of the kit. It's worth getting the...

Unfortunately, you have that incorrect. You need power to climb fast. Power = torque x speed, so if you use a crank-drive and small wheels, your torque goes up, but your speed goes down. Let's say, you have your 36v motor's controller set to the default 15 amps. That's 540w from your battery...

Whatever NM my cadence sensored 720W BBS01B exerts on the road via my 20" rear wheel, I reckon power isn't a million Watts away from @saneagle's 48V X 22A = 1050W hub motor via his larger rear wheel. Untrue! I can climb hills faster to escape your unhinged mates!

I meant from a standing start. Once moving there’s no problem. Didn’t happen every time so I suppose it just happened when the ratchet in the cassette and the crank had further to turn before engaging.

My reaction too. Mine comes on softly, gradually increasing torque over about a second or two. Perhaps Steelframe, means the unpleasant effect of changing gear while applying power. Imagine doing that in a manual car. Properly set up, power stops when you stop pedalling. Mine stops in a...