Search results for query: hub motor vs crank

I had a RT100RT for a couple of years. I quite liked it, but the oil seal went on the back of the crank, so the clutch was always slipping. Eventually, I traded it for a VFR750, which was a very nice nike compared with all those ones. A few years later, I discovered the NTV650 which is a...

Had you previously attempted to change some settings in the LCD? It sounds to me like the speed sensor was set incorrectly in the LCD settings: https://ride1up.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/KD21C-Display-Manual.pdf

Hi all, I'm new here & have just discovered this site after lots of searching for assistance with a problem with my Furosystem Furo XMax ebike. I presume you are aware the company Furosystems seems to have disappeared. There are still some basic webpages available with manuals etc but nothing...

My kit was via Yose-Power (chinese with uk based web site and eu/uk wharehouse so complient with eu/uk regs mostly) , and a good rep for batteries (welcome to critisism on this point), and was complete with a 36v 17ah battery. rear wheel 700c size the 700mm again.. 28" to most 29" to some but...

The main decision point between hub and crank drive is whether you're going to do any serious off-road riding, where the more centalised mass of the crank drive makes the bike more agile. The crank drives give the advantage of very high torque at low speed in bottom gear, so you can climb very...

You can forget fitting a 750w or 1000w motor to that bike. It has crappy rim brakes that are hardly adequate for it without a motor. What people don't realise is that your average speed increases when you have a motor. A pedal bike averages about 8 - 10 mph. When you fit a 250w motor, it goes...

Look let me clear something up, I want to buy a battery once, not twice, I'd rather get a battery with high quality cells and a decent BMS once than save a miniscule amount on a less capable battery. I intend to comfortably ride the bike in a safe manner, yes maybe I could've spent less money on...

The CYC motor is not so good for a bike you want to use on the road, especially with your low gearing. It looks like you only have room for a small chainring, so it'll be hopelessly under-geared. It'll be a nightmare of never being in the right gear. Your gearing might be fine for lazy...

Sorry for butting in the conversation; but have you any idea what the DWG22C motor's derestricted top speed is? For some reason I think this motor is 48v 201rpm native and not a 36v 201rpm motor overvolted to 48v. Since it is said to be built 'for torque', I guess it tops out at 18mph depending...

I saw the 60Nm figure but this is the first time I have owned a crank drive e bike. The Trek one had the Bionx system and the crossfire one has the suntour hub motor. Its extremely early days yet but the effort needed to climb up my street seems tiny almost like you are on a very slight downhill...

Maybe not on the Bealach na Ba!

Hub motors (the Santana 3) beat crank drive motors on user serviceability and price, and no need to worry about gear shift. The CD got replaced by the Rambla which was a brilliant bike. However, bafang charge a lot for their motors. The Ananda motor is much more affordable.

I prefer crank drive's weight distribution nearer to the centre of gravity, making the bike feels a lot lighter than a similar bike with hub drive. Also, I never need a gear shift sensor riding around Southend.

I could try that reverse journey. I should be visiting a friend who lives near Snowdon sometime, and he's considering converting his titanium framed MTB to electric. I fear the final bit up the Snowdon pyg track could burn out my BBS01B, even if I fitted the 42T chainwheel - might take the...

He lives on Mount Snowdon, so he means the 13 mile one way journey to Caernarfon. He gets a lift in a truck to go back home so that his Bafang crank motor won't wear out.

BTW This actioner was fun and enjoyable to watch, if you like actioners.

It appears only the ES abusers seem to have issues with the Tsdz2, they tend to push to much power through the drives . The axle breakages appear to be with the longer BB axle models. That said they have done a good job in showing up it's issues so that the rest of us can make the small mods...

Not for me either. The gearing conflict alone is unresolvable with a shared drive path. For me and many if not most, the single gear of a hub motor handles the 5 to 15.5 mph assisted speed range well enough and the most any hub motor can need for that range is two gears with a dual speed hub...

It isn't. Crank-drives are shite! Anybody, who tried each in a side-by-side test would choose a hub-motor.

Sellers probably prefer mid-drive drives because they get fewer follow-up questions and problems because there's not much to get wrong when installing. With a hub-motor, you can get motor doesn't fit drop-outs, disc rubbing on caliper or motor, gears rubbing on motor or frame, pedal sensor...