Search results for query: hub motor vs crank

250w is the rated power, the actual max output power from a hub motor with a 36v 15 a controller with a full battery will be closer to 500W (42v *15amp * 80?% efficiency)

I have purchased two of the Yosepower front hub kits, one for my trike and one for bike. They both have 250w 36v motors with a standard set 15mph limit Which can be tweaked. The only thing that makes it illegal is the throttle takes you to 15mph but Saneagle has kindly supplied me a way of of...

yeah read tricky for expensive.. could be expensive in time spent searching.. Most generic replacement ebike controllers employ a cadence sensor input, so finding a compatible controller with an existing torque sensor may be problematic, Im not sure all torque sensors work the same or if...

Hub-motors are generally more reliable than crank ones, and they can bale you out if you get any problem with your drive train. It's difficult to gauge how much power you need, but I'd go with 48v to get more power options. You can divide motor controllers into two groups: speed control, where...

The Orange she got has Bosch crank drive. I think it was around 25kg with battery and all fittings. Anyway, not suggesting it for OP. p.s. I did try to suggest the Santana3 to the friend, I forget why she decided against it; probably that she really wanted hub gears (Danish and brought up that...

For towing a trailer, a bike with small wheels would be better because a hub-motor gets more torque with them and the motor runs faster and more efficiently. With big wheels, it would probably run too slowly which would overheat it. A bike with big wheels would need a crank-motor, but nearly...

The default one piece yose-power pas sensor requires a circular < 17mm diameter crank, it might fit on a 17mm hex?? the alternative option for fitting on the right hand side in 2 pieces (magnet disk and sensor) is less demanding on crank dimensions/shape and works in more cases at no extra cost...

Kat any EAPC you see that utilises a middle motor/crank motor will be a Torque sensing type irrelevant of brand . For your needs as with the Woosh Crusa one will be looking for an EAPC with a hub motor.

That Sutton dude might have copied a link while logged into the CMS of his news site? "support ratio of 1:4 and" Totally unacceptable! Such low levsl of assistance would make ebiking less inclusive for the elderly, the infirm, and those who need to arrive at work sweat free. "support ratio...

It's the speed more than anything. Crank-drive works better at low speed. If your modal speed is going to be above or about 12 mph, a hub-motor is better. The Yose ones are optimised for 15 mph. You can get slower hub-motors optimised for low speed from the Chinese resellers, but I've never...

yeab, 2008 did came the a lot of conversion kit companys and a few of them sold as "midmotor" the cyclone-kit including me but that motor was not reliable and noicy and if I remmember correct it had only two senor for the hall. As a mechanic I did saw the potential of those upcoming...

That's a neat installation. Yes, I did mine in 2011, before crank drive kits were available. I didn't have access to any machine shop, so I did mine out of readily available bits of bike. I didn't know that there were free-wheeling cranks then. It worked quite well, and it had the advantage of...

Pretty sure my kit included a 13ah battery but its been on the bike coming up 2 trouble free years - had an initial hic-cup with the pas sensor sorted with an email to support and a brief exchange - not the best support but not the worst either. The pas/speed control was a bit of a hurdle to...

If a motor can only handle 200w before it overheats, it'll fail the 250w test. Any motor that can handle 250w without overheating will pass. It's pretty simple really. The test involves a trial run to determine the RPM at which the motor has maximum efficiency (least heat), then the actual...

I have followed lots of forum advice in general and @saneagle 's advice in particular ! I am a similar weight and have a 48v rear hub bike and a 48v mid drive bike - either would be excellent. I slightly prefer the hub drive for road use as the motor power isn't going through the chain line and...

At 97 kg, you'd probably be better with a 48v system. Woosh do a 48v TSDZ8 kit, which will probably do everything you want. You can get a donor bike off Facebook or NextDoor ads if you don't already have one. Any bike with a stand bottom bracket, triangle frame and disc brakes would be good...

I sort of assumed there would be a practical stall threshold torque for a controlled motor system, with max current from the given battery at min reasonable rotation speed. Near that point the system would be non linear and the motor and control components would get hot, wasting power and...

You still haven't told us your weight. When you read stuff in magazines, the riders are always very slim and fit cyclists. Your average middle-aged unfit and slightly over-weight guy is not going to get the same experience. Torque figures are a bit like range - completely meaningless. Motors...

Hi all, We've had an issue on a customers bike (I work for a bike charity). It's a Suntour HESC system. There is no throttle and no walk mode. Someone removed the chain set not realising the pedal sensor is mounted to the chain set on these bikes. It ripped off. I should add here that they...

Good evening all I hope you are all well. Update on my headache I have replaced the crank sensor and I now have a signal. I have connected everything as I think it should the main plug i have done colours to colours and wires all to the motors matching the colours. The motor isn't still working...