Search results for query: hub motor vs crank

I don't trust waterproofing claims made about anything. I've left my Bafang BBS01B mid-drive conversion standing in rain on it's kickstand for hours many times while out gardening, I've also cycled in sustained heavy rain for hours and 43 miles, my motor has also survived complete submersion...

Not me. I avoid rain if I can help it. Battery to motor cable requires some waterproofing, but rest is not necessary. You can do it of course if you want to. I was considering using threadlocker, but Seneagle said to whack spanner few times with a hammer, so I did just that.

Had anyone done anything to help prevent water ingress particularly with the cable from the battery to the motor? Heat shrink, dielectric grease, silicone sealant? My kit arrived yesterday and I have different connectors on the battery and motor which means two cable joins to weatherproof...

It's probably just the difference between a crank-drive bike and a hub-motor one. The hub-motor makes good power in the mid-range and gives fairly constant torque. The crank-drive makes the most power at abot 75% of it's max rpm, which for a Bosch is something like 80 rpm, which is a bit faster...

I have had the NCM Paris for a year and it did not go well initially .After 4 months the power delivery was intermittent . Despite Emails and phone messages left with the Supplier LEON CYCLE UK , they never came back to me . I did contact their only Dealer in the UK at Torquay who was very...

All good points guys, and taken onboard. I'm about halfway through the build now. The (250W) motor is on. The (48v 20Ah) battery plate is on, with a Grin Double Bob. The gear and speed sensors are installed. But I hit a (face palm) snag. I broke the derailleur!:( In my haste, threaded it...

Thanks that is very helpful

There isn't a ready-made solution. That bike would need special stuff, experience and knowledge to convert. It could be done. You can see examples on YouTube and various forums, all of which are probably illegal in UK. It has a very wide bottom bracket (165mm), which is probably too wide for a...

Telford looks nice and what cracking weather. I cycled through Telford 12 years ago on my LeJog trip - the city planners have been busy since then. The other guy's bike looks to be a proprietary system given the in-frame battery and so the crank drive motor is something like a...

OK, for those that think hub-motors don't climb, you can see how quickly I reeled in some guy on a crank-drive bike up a steep hill. That part of the path is very steep. Te rest of it up to the top, where you can see the kids playground is steep enough for an average guy to need an ebike to get...

You need to think about where you're going to fit the battery. The best place is low and central. The Paratrooper can't really do that. Yes it can be done, but wouldn't it be better to have it nicer if you can. Donor bikes are really cheap considering the cost of the kit. It's worth getting the...

Unfortunately, you have that incorrect. You need power to climb fast. Power = torque x speed, so if you use a crank-drive and small wheels, your torque goes up, but your speed goes down. Let's say, you have your 36v motor's controller set to the default 15 amps. That's 540w from your battery...

Whatever NM my cadence sensored 720W BBS01B exerts on the road via my 20" rear wheel, I reckon power isn't a million Watts away from @saneagle's 48V X 22A = 1050W hub motor via his larger rear wheel. Untrue! I can climb hills faster to escape your unhinged mates!

I meant from a standing start. Once moving there’s no problem. Didn’t happen every time so I suppose it just happened when the ratchet in the cassette and the crank had further to turn before engaging.

My reaction too. Mine comes on softly, gradually increasing torque over about a second or two. Perhaps Steelframe, means the unpleasant effect of changing gear while applying power. Imagine doing that in a manual car. Properly set up, power stops when you stop pedalling. Mine stops in a...

It doesn't have 80Nm. That's just an arbitrary number for advertising. The actual torque depends on your gearing. You can get 1000Nm if you want - just lower the gearing. When you've ridden a load of different bikes with different motors at different currents and at different voltages, you get...

Hmm! The thing about hub-motors is that they're are many different types to meet different needs. Sure, if you're average weight riding on average roads for commuting or touring, most common hub-motors would work for you, but the moment you bring in special requirements, you need the motor that...

Hm, sure? Only 3pins on my bike, but if I bypass that, my question is how the bike will behave on 24V?

IIRC, the Panasonic crank-motor won't run with an ordinary battery. It has to be the Panasonic one. Try german Ebay. There's usually a few large capacity ones there. Search for "Panasonic akku"

I think they call it blissful ignorance! Actually, my comment was addressed to my friend Guerney. His bike has 20" wheels, which swings things significantly in favour of a hub-motor. There are some cases where bikes or riders are more suited to crank motors, but generally not for a touring or...