Search results for query: hub motor vs crank

Thanks Peter. I especially like the way the PAS ring seems from my reading of your account, to simply clip onto the crank... Is that right? I have an urge to maybe convert my Brompton to electric power and I think the available kits from Woosh look as if you need to pull the crank arm off...

'TIME OF STOP' maybe? Mine is set at 25. I have never changed that setting. I only edited things I think I understand. It doesn't take long. One slightly weird but not unpleasant thing is that the power comes in what I'd call waves. I come to a slope and the power delivery has been very low or...

Yep, long grass turned my folded down pedals, activated pedal assist. My "Stop delay" is set to 100ms, "Stop decay" is 0ms, therefore pedal assist stops sharp. If unprepared, this can result in sudden pain to the knees when pedal assist abrupty cuts off at 25kph, but I'd rather have that than...

I think those number assumptions are right. Your sudden activation in long grass could have happened because the grass moved the crank arm. Mine happened because of a small amount of drag in the motor freewheel while the motor was turning the chain wheel and there was no weight on the pedals...

At 16 1/2 st, a front wheel conversion would be unsuitable. He needs high torque, which means a 48v rear hub motor (best option) or any crank-drive.

Your "Start degree" is also 4, same as mine. I've speculated about this in post #34 and #43, and might try setting that parameter to 2 at some point, to see if pedal assist activates faster - this could be handy for starting again after having suddenly been stopped in too high a gear, as I...

I've tried to disable my throttle - and thought I had, but the throttle now operates as a sort of feeble 'walk' throttle. It has no power to propel the bike when I am on it, but it does walk the bike at about four miles an hour. I think, from what I have read, that 'Start up Degree - signal...

How much current your crank-drive draws from the battery depends more on pedal speed than any controller setting. Any testing you do is pretty well meaningless unless you can match your exact pedal speed up any hill. There's a chart in post #668 here that shows what you get...

The sensor was probably stuck. It has a centre piece that uses friction to grip on the pedal shaft. If it gets dirty and dries out, the dirt can jam it, and it slips on the shaft. Or, like you said, it might be just a dirty connector.

Thanks for your speedy response, very much appreciated. I did as you said with the magnet and a little red LED lit up on the sensor. I attempted to strobe past it numerous times without success. However, having all but given up, the bike burst into life... once. So, I tried again by turning the...

I just ordered a set of those Bafang BBS01b labels. My BBS01 has 250 engraved on the bottom of it, but down there, behind the front wheel, it is always coated in mud and cow dung. I have to regularly drive a road which is also used by cows on their way to milking - so you can imagine what that...

Why don't you convert your own from a suitable donor bike using generic parts that can be easily repaired or replaced ? For twist and go throttle (without pedalling) legally you have to get it approved at a DVLA testing site. Wisper do that as an option on their bikes...

Woah, woah! You were doing so well until point 4. Torque sensor? Go and take a cold bath, then come back and try again. I think a couple of cogwheels in your head have slipped out of mesh. A quick bang against the wall might reset them, so let's try.

Prompted by @saneagle's comment - What is your Pedelec Nirvana ? Here's mine 48V 15 A Sine Wave controller with power based PAS levels - plenty of smooth quiet power for the steepest road hills even for people that are not as slim as they used to be Rear Geared Hub motor - something like...

When forum traffic is down, we all have to do a bit to increase engagement by provoking discussion through slipping in a bit of politics, sport or other controversial subject matter such as crank-drives are shite, expensive bikes are a waste of money, helmets are unnecessary, and things like...

Buy the proper socket and do it up with a torque wrench? Mine hasn’t moved at all in 2000 miles and 18 months. I think the socket was about £30. I've lent it to a mate for him to do his too, if you’re local you can borrow it!

You can always add a torque arm to resist the motor's torque rather than rely on the friction of that silly ring nut. You can use a 32mm spotlight bracket on the seat tube as an anchor point for the frame, and make a tiebar that fixes to any convenient motor screw or one of the two bracket...

I got progressively more brutal with the tightening of that nut combo, to the point where it hasn't needed tightening for over three years. Both nuts have to be tightened, the one underneath tightened most.

On the Bafang crank drive reliability thing, I had to curtail my planned ride with the GF this morning when my motor started creaking. I knew what it was pretty quickly after checking the tightness of the nearside pedal arm. That was fine and tightening it didn't improve the creaking noise. It...

I’d be happy to help… post up some pictures of your frame and motor fitment? These things do need to be considered properly when selecting a frame and motor combination… if you just go with what you’ve got then it may be fundamentally wrong and only minor fettling possible. With my project, the...