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Have similar problem occasionaly. There was a discussion a while back which may be relevant. You could try anotherkiwi's suggestion to wait until the speed drops below 23-22 kph before pedaling again but this did not work for me. There is a suggestion that disconnecting the speed sensor wire...

There is no temp sensor in the hub so the motor heat temp doesn't work.

I tried that (with 44/34) but it was more trouble than what its worth. The trouble is it pushed the 34T chainline outwards by 5mm (over and above the existing standard chainline) and the 44T by a further 8mm (13mm in total), so that the chain has to cross over too far to get to bigger cogs on...

I think you should and within 0.01 volts. This can be a tedious job as after discharge to 3.6v, the battery volts may rise a little after a period of time (to perhaps 3.63v) and you will need to discharge slightly again and recheck again after a few hours. But again, it is necessary as the...

Hi. I think that particular bike has a 'torque sensor', which can be unsatisfactory for some people, as the power output is a multiple of your pedaling input and if you cant keep a certain amount of pressure on the pedals, the power output is poor. I am a weak cyclist and cannot keep up the...

Warning! Don't charge the cells individually. I will give two reasons. When you are assembling the pack, its very easy to accidentally put on short circuits. For example, I was soldering balance wires using a roll of solder and one part of solder roll came in contact with adjacent cell and...

Nipples (especially aluminium) can break.

I used the square type that lock together. I think they add an extra 1mm all around. 10X 4 rows of 18650 would normally be 180 X 72mm, but with spacers would be 200 X 80. plus a little extra on the height. I suppose the main thing is that the battery is mechanically robust, however way you...

I would recommend buying the spacers as they give strength to the pack and reduce the likelihood of strips/balance wires breaking or shorting. They also help cooling. I would also make up a dummy load and do a full charge and then discharge to 30 volt on battery, observing the group voltages...

On e bikes, the spokes often break at the 'j' bend on rear hub motors, so it is often easy to replace the spoke, especially if the bike has v brakes (no disk ) and hub is often bigger than freewheel so there is nothing in the way. It is not even necessary (with double walled rims) to deflate...

When a new wheel is being built, the spokes are not bent. But, when you are replacing an individual spoke, you can bend as much as necessary. However, dont bend at the ends (thread or 'j' bend). The spoke straightens remarkably well when put under tension. Its often possible to (quickly) replace...

An extra 3-4mm approx is preferable, (2mm rim thickness + 2mm more to go into nipple head. The spoke may stretch about 1mm when tightened). https://www.sheldonbrown.com/spoke-length.html

Do you need torque arms? The 250/350W kits normally come with 2 special washers that both grip the axle and grip the frame. I have fitted a rear hub to a horizontal steel frame and found it easier than alloy frame as dropout slot was long and no need to file, except to clean some of paint off...

Sheldon Brown has a useful article below. I am assuming you have a steel frame. Watch out for cracks forming where the two seat stays are bridged and similarly at chainstays. Some chainstays have a weak spot at dimple behind chainwheel. Some recommend clamping at weak spots. (point 3 in...

You wont be fitting a rear disc or a wide freewheel, so its may be possible to fit the torque anti-rotation washers on outside of dropouts (with the tab facing inwards) instead of inside., saving about 8mm of width. Depending on the kit and your dropouts , it may be also possible to save...

The hardware is the same. There may be some difference in software but I am not sure as they have identical 48v controllers and motors in spare parts list. Perhaps its just the speed (or possibly amps) setting that makes the difference.

Hi. Just to add to above, I have fitted and used both the front 250w and the rear 350w yose hubs on 700c wheel bikes, so here are my observations. Both kits have some similarities but there are important differences and both kits have there advantages. The 350w rear kit has a motor rpm of...

Its a geared hub with inbuilt clutch so when you spin by hand, the motor itself does not spin (but there is usually some light movement in the 3 planetary gears and clutch). These gears (and wheel bearings) are relatively cheap but motor has to be dismantled. I have no actual experience with...

It hard to tell. It could be a wheel bearing either I suppose. With the bike turned off and wheel not moving, try grabbing the freewheel gear cluster with your hand and check for sideways movement. Also check wheel for roughness when spinning forward with your hand. One way to eliminate the...

The freewheel can give a very deep knocking sound if bearings loose. It sounds as if someone is hitting the hub with a hammer every turn of wheel.