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You need access to both ends of the motor cable in order to carry out a continuity (beep) test. A meter probe on each end of the wires one at a time will tell you if it is intact or broken.

Are you saying there is no connector between the motor and controller?

Another option you could consider if you have a duel voltage controller is a 3S 12v booster battery. This would enable you to run your bike at 48v when extra top speed is required. I've done this myself, but I'm not sure it would be cost effective for you.

Your bike is fitted with a 250W (watt) motor. Ah is the capacity of your battery, how much power it holds. I think your bike came with a 10Ah, but you could increase this for more range. This one is 15Ah and shipped from EU...

This could be a built in safety measure to stop the PAS working when pushing the bike.

Increase the speed gradually until you can balance.

Or this one. http://www.topbikekit.com/akm100h-36v350w-ebike-front-driving-hub-motor-p-677.html

This is the same motor as the 100SX. https://bmsbattery.com/motor/630-16309-q100h-36v350w-front-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html#/213-rpm-201 One of these if you must...

Chargers like this cannot be used to charge Bosch batteries.

Check the bolts that hold the pedal arms on then.

Ah, sorry Mars, I'm easily confused these days o_O. Yes, best to turn it even if you never ride in the rain as water from puddles splash up, run down spokes etc. and get trapped.

Yeah, that's up side down, may explain your rusty internals. It's easily done after punture repair or even at the factory. It looks right as the cable runs up the forkleg.

I've not had reason to try this, but as it coats the motor internals, must provide some degree of water repellence.

No, deff. not. The cable exit point allows any water/moisture that does make it's way in to escape. If it was meant to be sealed, it would be done by the factory.

The motor axle may have been fitted upside down in the forks allowing water to run down the cable and into the motor. If/when you refit make sure the slot in the axle where the cable exits faces downwards.

Worn pedal bearings?

You could just flog them both and treat your wife to a new bike too.;)

You may be best to contact Jimmy at ebikebatteries for a recell of your existing battery.

It's good to mention when you fit parts that were not part of the original kit. What have you done to stop the crank arm binding? Left the bolt loose? Wasn't your original problem losing the bolt?

I would get the bike/battery/charger checked out at a local dealer before you buy anything. As cyclebuddy says, it could just as easily be the battery, but dealer needs the bike to test this.